Mod list for the engine is as follows: VAT BLOCK MILL DECK OF ENGINE BLOCK HONE ALL CYLINDERS W/ TQ PLATE (INCLUDES BORING) PIN FIT PISTONS AND RODS MACHINE OIL GALLEY DEBURR ENGINE BLOCK (INSIDE & OUT) MAG CHECK CRANKSHAFT BALANCE AND POLISH CRANKSHAFT EPR BEARING COATING SERVICE EPR CYLINDER BORE COATING SERVICE EPR PISTON COATING SERVICE EPR MANIFOLD AND TURBOCHARGER COATING SERVICE PORTED OIL PUMP 3 ANGLE VALVE JOB EPR STREET PORT MILL DECK OF CYLINDER HEADS DEBURR CYLINDER HEADS EPR EXHAUST PORT COATING SERVICE EPR COMBUSTION CHAMBER COATING SERVICE WISECO PISTONS SCAT RODS MANLEY OS SS VALVES CLEVITE MAIN & ROD BEARINGS JWT VALVE SPRINGS NEW CHECK VALVES AND RESTRICTORS NEW OIL GALLEY PIPE PLUGS NEW DOWEL PINS NEW GASKET KIT JWT R4+ CAMSHAFT KIT FREEZE PLUGS ARP HEADSTUDS Thats the jist of it for the most part.
Do NOT use the OEM manifold to head gaskets with those ports like that it wont have a hope in hell of sealing and it's a BIG job to go in there trying to sort it out once the engine is in. You will have to use an after market gasket of similar material to the ones used on the exh manifolds AND you will also have to use some sort of fuel proof, high strength but flexible sealant. If those ports start leaking on those thin spots there
He can use the gasket with a high grade rubber cement. He could also trace a new gasket out of material and use as well. Key is using the rubber cement to seal. Be good to go. Its a common application to use. He should be fine.
Nice buy Jono.... but itd be great if you kept the 2+2 as well Ive always loved your original Zed and itd be a shame to see it go.. But congrats on the purchase of the later model Zed Im sure after a little TLC it will be fantastic. Cheers
Yes they do have a lot of similarities. Will be interesting to see what she is capable of once dropped in. Well no big updates to report (I lost internet connection over the last two days). On Friday I removed the headlights after a lot of swearing. The inner rear bolts are so hard to access on the TT with the intercooler piping and recerc valves in the way. But I very slowly got them out. Side note, anyone know what this little plugged in unit is? Anyway, headlights had the typical dirt and grim on the rear housing as you'd expect. The headlight buckets were the same. Yes I know no one will ever see under the headlights, but I am a neat freak. So gave them a clean I gave the rear housing a quick clean too (no before pics). Pulled the headlights apart and gave them a clean also. Sticky job & not one I enjoy. They weren't nearly as dirty when compared to when I did this job to my '90 Z. And there you have it, a pair of clean Xenon headlights. Might add, the day I did this job was not pleasant. It was 42 degree's outside & even hotter in the garage. It was the first day of the shocking bush fires we have raging down here. Though I'm well away from the affected area's there was ash floating from the sky and smoke haze filling the horizon. Took this quick snap from the garage on the Friday afternoon. It's Sunday & smoke still covers the sky & no forecast of rain in sight
Apart from the temperature, it looks like you've got yourself a really good garage to work on a car. That makes a monumental difference when you've got a lot to do (or at least it does to me), so I'm very jealous.
That's true, Theo. When I was your age though all the work on cars was done on my back in driveways. The benefits of having a place built is you can have a larger than normal garage. Not quite big enough to fit two Z's though Since last post I've reinstalled the headlights. I took a quick snap of the underside of one for people to see. The alignment cogs/bolts are very different to the normal Z32 headlight. The up/down bolt for main bean is easy to adjust with a ring spanner. But no idea how you are suppose to access the white cogs once headlights are installed. The cogs don't even meet/touch each other & free spin I also couldn't work out how to remove the rear cap from the main HID globe. I can only image it would be a MAJOR pain in the arse to do in the car. Here a some boxes of goodies waiting to be installed. And that's all I have for now.
Certainly looks like a MAP sensor, and we don't get to see the insides of a 2K model much... Where does the vac line go to Jono?
Have you just placed the ballast there or are they installed on the bottom of the headlight from factory? And if so how? I'm curious re placement in an OEM scenario
That's how they are factory, Rob. The ballast is attached to a bracket, which is bolted to the rail on the left side in the pic.
It absolutely 100% is a MAP sensor and if you unplug it and do a diagnostics with the likes of Blazt it will tell you the MAP sensor is faulty. It has a hose that runs to a pipe bolted up to the hood latch, this splits to two and runs off to the engine somewhere, our 97TT had the parts but the hoses were disconnected so I can't confirm where they are supposed to run to. It is a MAP sensor though 100% certain, the later model Zs run both MAP and MAF sensors - crazy fussy I know!! Jono will be able to tell us if they still run the MAP sensor normally used to run the boost gauge on the early Zs on the 2000 model, the 97TT does not have the factory boost gauge so it doesn't have the MAP sensor at the rear RH corner like all the earlier TTs.
Yep, just popped the bonnet then. Has the same unit as the early model Z32's in the far right hand corner of the engine bay to run the boost gauge.
hope you have a good local tuner because tuning a boosted zed with a obd 2 16bit ecu is going to be a nightmare .. unless you bin it and stick in a haltech or something aftermarket
are you sure its obd2? can you post a pic of the consult port please simmo when your not inundated with smoke.