looks really good man! those indentations are what's left of screw bosses, they should be welded with the rest.
On the cold start issue i saw a thread on the Nistune forum to do with this in regard to 16bit ECUs having rich cold start after having the injectors scaled. I was just emailing Matt from Nistune regarding using this ECU and he said all the issue had been fixed, so might be worth having a look there or emailing Matt if you do have a 16bit ECU Procky. bRACKET have you started your car yet and had it tuned? I'm trying to figure out if this ECU will be sufficient for my build.
Motor home! FINALLY picked my motor up from the engine builders last night and began the job of assembly. Massive job ahead now, but motivation is back and better than ever! So glad to finally be pulling all those parts out from the shed that have been sitting there for years Something of interest Alex and I discovered: Using the Tomei adjustable exhaust gears with a S1 CAS presents no issues, however when we put on my S2 CAS from my old '97 NA engine, the rear of the CAS body is in extremely close proximity to the adjustment Allen Key heads on the gear. To resolve this, I'll be taking a few mm off the S2 CAS body. Will update with photos of the situation tonight.
yes the series 2 Hitachi CAS requires a little more clearance than the series 1 Mitsubishi CAS when installing after market gears . Even more so with the BDE exhaust gears. .
Updates Spent an entire day with Alex last week getting as much as we could done, but we spent half the day driving around picking up parts. Never the less, we managed to get a few jobs done. This week I was getting all the other little jobs done, such as: The CAS was machined down on a lathe to give clearance to the Tomei gears, as mentioned above. It's hard to capture the clearance when installed, but it's visible. The shaved plenum I've been working on finally got welded. First step was for me to make up some plugs to fill the hole that had been left by the EGR plates and other factory block ofs. The plugs must have a bevel in them so the molten aluminum can pool and penatrate. Came out like this, yet to be resmoothed or cleaned up. Very happy with the results. Also have redone my camera covers as I wasn't happy with the paint on my first set. Getting these powdercoated this time. Got a one piece tail shaft from Robbo too, hit it with some black paint so it looks nice and fresh. Already installed this on the diff end. Started redoing my timing covers too, the paint got water marks on it from something, so it's getting a fresh coat of purple. I cut the bottom section out for ease of removal with the water pipes in, while I was at it. Gave the inside a hit of black to neaten it up. Currently waiting on some braided oil lines with restrictors from CZP, that's what is currently holding us up from finalizing the motor on the stand, bolting the clutch/flywheel/gearbox up and dropping it in. Decent progress is decent.
Awesome work man, glad you're doing it properly welding everything up. You should do the covers properly and have them professionally painted. Standard oil feed lines won't fit your turbos?
I might look into getting them painted, I want to do some sanding first, I left a few high spots last time I'm not happy with. I don't have standard lines, and any turbo lines I had, I sold with the 2560's. Ball bearing turbos need oil restrictors in the lines anyway, which I didn't have. These braided lines solve two problems at once
Happy to help baby, I only wish my zed was this nice and clean, and the purple shits all over my red bucket. #purple4lyf
Plenum is finally back together, will be going on the motor as is, will be checked for any leaks (from the welded holes), then taken off and powdercoated. Sorted the injection, the Nismo 740cc's are installed in the stock fuel rail, with new o-rings all around. The plan is to start it up like a dummy setup, then pull the plenum off for coating and setup a twin feed system. The issue we have at the moment is the passenger side braided oil line, that goes from the turbo to the oil pressure sensor block, has two different sized threads. I'll have to look into getting a sleeve or something similar to make the two compatible, unless I'm missing something. Any ideas?
Is it a kit from the USA? The passenger side line isn't supposed to go to the OPS 'cause it's in the other side in USDM vehicles. Get pirtek or similar it modify your line, a sleeve is just begging for oil leaks...
Sorry about the garbage photos, but here's where I'm at. Enzed fixed the oil line by slightly shortening it and replacing the fitting, it will now go straight into the oil pressure sensor block Again, garbage shot, but here's the "Z33" oil pressure sensor which is supposed to be better, we'll see... Passenger side is all ready to go, those BDE mounts are the shit! Annnddd that's pretty much it... Ignore the timing covers, they're temporary!
Engine installed Got around to finishing up the engine on the stand yesterday, had to finish bolting up the passenger side manifold and tie up a few loose ends. Had to grind the block back a little for clearance, not sure why, maybe the combination of MSP manifolds and 2860's, I dunno. Then we decided it was best if we got the engine in, any other jobs that need doing can be done with the engine in situ with little drama. Got a million and one jobs to do before I even think of starting it, but progress is progress! Massive thanks to Alex, yet again haha.
What dumps ? I had the same issues with fitmet but had AMS manifolds . Looks like you've got it in ok but
