Hey Mitch Not sure on the grade of the hone, Ron borrowed it from one of his mates (same one he used in his last build). There was no lip on the bore at the last compression ring or anything like that it all looked quite good. Each bored cleaned up instantly in a minute or two. Even the bearings the came out are still pretty good. Rings and just OEM, bearings are ACL. Was all just an OEM build/freshen up, didn't want to put it in to then shit itself 6 months or 2 years later. I was most worried about the bottom end from there up it all pretty straight forward, heads are getting some port work just to help that bit more. When my daily runs out of rego next yr the RB30 will come out for a rebuild and the rest of it can go to the scrappers Few more weekends and it should be in and running.:br:
Sweet, nothing wrong with a home-grown hone job I assume you used the three-stone spring loaded contraptions? The cross hatch pattern you get on the bores and the finish is critical for oil control- too smooth and there is not much oil on the bores for lubrication, too rough and you have oil control issues. This can be modified to some extent with the ring pack you use, ring design and metallurgy. I think chrome rings can withstand a smoother bore, in which the hone stones can be wrapped in a 1200 grit emery paper for a few laps to get a smoother bore finish. It seems daunting, but I applaud you for doing it at home, its a great learning experience. Sing out if you need a hand with the rest of your build, and I'll come down some time.
Done some more work on the n/a, dropped the box today in about 45 mins or so. I solemly swear to never pull an engine and box together again (at least in my low height garage). Dropped A/C and power steering pump now just have the engine waiting in place to be pulled up and out. I broke the 1/2" drive on one of my breaker bars to the filler plug on the box . I remember my mechanic telling me that he couldn't undo it with a 1m pole on the breaker bar while the car was up on the hoist...not sure what I'll do with it yet. Bit of a delay on the heads, the guy who was doing the port work was sick all last week so I should get them back this weekend, bolt them up lifters and cams in and we are past the half way mark to being finished.:br:
PICS I'll let the pictures do the talking... feels so wrong to pull apart a car which there is nothing wrong with. Did some work on Sunday was meant to have the engine finished yesterday but got stuck working on my daily and my girlfriends car. Confused myself with the timing - as long as crank is at TDC #1 (mark on crank gear lines up with oil pump) then both intake and exhaust cams lined up with the indicators on the backing plates (5 white marks on the belt line up with the 4 cams and indicator on the crank gear....all is well Had a late one the night before which might explain my lazyness. Got my heads back, lifters are back in and cams torqued down to spec. Port matched upper plennum to heads. Couple pics of the intake side, again only port matched to lower plennum. Exhaust side was opened up a bit more.
Did some more work over the weekend, torqued the heads up on Saturday and installed the lower plennum. Also dummy fitted the AMS manis to see what they look like. Will be getting the AMS manis ceramic coated along with the uppler plennum. Starting to look like an engine again! Few snaps through the AMS mani shop some off the exhaust porting.
Fitted up the water pump this arvo and the two coolant hardpipes coming out the front of each cylinder head. Also made up some gaskets for these short coolant pipes, no leaks on this build . Something I am slighlty concerned about, I have new Ramey Z heavy duty idler studs from Coz for both upper and lower idler pulleys. As I bolted in the lower one (on the right of the water pump) I noticed that it is slightly bent as it not rotating on it's axis and is slightly goin around off centre as it is bolted in. It's ever so slight and I almost didn't notice it, I don't want the belt running off centre if the stud is bent. Exactly the same look when you have something cross threaded, not as bad though. Should I be worried? Don't exactly want to pay $25 for another one. Pics of the sligtly bent stud on the left, can't see it by eye only once it is turned into the block. Also another query with the head gaskets, I noticed on the exhaust side of the block and head the coolant galleries were much larger for obvious reasons of higher temps. Though on the intake side the OEM head gaskets had a slightly smaller hole on the head gasket than what was there on the head and block. Should I have opened the hole up on the head gasket? I didn't open it up as it is an OEM part and I believe it should be left as is. Should have snapped some pics, this is all I have belowe as you can see on both of the gaskets, the lower part of the gasket is the part I am querying. Also below you can see on the deck of the heads where the intake side the coolant galleries are smaller than the exhaust, though the actual holes on the head gasket are again slightly smaller. Any help would be greatly appreciated in regards to both the stud and head gaskets, planning to have it all finished this Saturday except turbos and manifolds. Please dont tell me I have to pull the heads of again in regards to the headgasket.!
Almost finished... Timing belt done... not a fan of the two elongated holes on the tensioner, I think it would be a better design with the tensioner fixed and set in one position... guessing it's like this to get the belt on to begin with. AMS manifolds are being ceramic coated at competition coatings should be done mid week, fit them up this weekend along with the turbos. Seal up the exhaust cams, fit injectors, fit up the water pipes at the rear and then focus on putting it back in.
Long time since an update Planning on finishing this motor today! Quick question - hoping to get an answer quick, oil cooler hoses I still have the OEM ones they 'look ok' but though of replacing it with new fresh hoses. Is it ok to buy any oil hose or will it need to be the OEM moulded hoses ones it's all in place in the engine bay? Also what size is it 3/8? Things left to do: -passenger side turbo -front coolant pipes -upper plennum -PCV and water hoses. Matt
HKS Wastegates Also have myself some HKS wastegate actuators, now these have 2 vacum nipples/air supplier per actuator 1 has been capped off and not sure as to what it's purpose is, could someone shed some light on this? Also where should the arm be adjusted to - I know they both have to open together at the same pressures, I take it the shorter the arm they will require more boost to open up. So minimum boost level can be set at 12-14psi....? Can the actuator be damaged in doing this?
It's Alive!!! Fired it up this afternoon after a few hicups with the CAS came to life on all 6 within an instant. Can't believe how instantly she fires up, no cranking its just an instant bang on all 6. I'd even say it starts up better than my n/a motor. It's un-freakin-believable!!! Front bar and bonnet are on, driving it down the road to the exhaust shop tomorrow to get my dumps flanged up to the rest of my exhaust. Bring it home and make it all neat, properly bolt up the front bar, install boost gauge and happy days. Will post up some pics tomorrow, was over updating this and simply wanted it done! It's done now and I'm certainly one relieved and happy man. Once its done 500km and no dramas I'll be over the moon.:br:
Great to hear, Matt! 2 of my best mates done with their rebuild. I can smell the breeze of a savoury photoshoot happening!!! I'd be organising a Sydney Photo Op Day soon! Don't blink... Arvin :br:
I'm over the moon! Let me know when your ready. I'd love to do a city shoot on a weeknight when its quiet. I'm already pumped to do a rebuild on my RB30 R31 with its bok choi HKS T04z. It's goin be angry with a big cam, external gate and screamer pipe!
No kidding mate! It's no longer my daily, have a new daily. It's goin be a budget eBay build, already have the 5 speed, standard zed brakes and front mount.
Thanks Ron, huge thanks goes to you, if I didn't actually have anyone to show me how the bottom end goes together apart from YouTube vids I would've been taking a massive gamble lol.
