Well the time has come that I start to post up the details of my TT conversion on my Aus-spec n/a I purchased a TT for the conversion in which it had most of the parts neccessary for the swap minus the A/C unit....though the Plazamaman FMIC made up for that.... Details of what I have done prior to the engine pull can be found here.... http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300587 Original plans where simply do the 100k kit all other basic maintenance and leave it at that. After a comp test lowest being 125 highest 135 which is not all that bad I though may as well pull it apart and do an OEM rebuild so it can safely take 15psi all day without the engine going pop 12 months later. So it's going to be: -OEM rings, bearings. -100k kit, engine gasket kit and clutch hub (already purchased). -Port matching of upper plennum to lower, some minor headwork(possibly OS valves) and port matching exhaust ports to AMS manifolds. -AMS manifolds and rad already purchased. -Lightweight underdrive pulley. -Have 2.5" split dumps...(I believe these have whored around with a few members). -HKS wastegate actuators my original ones seem fine when testing them with my turbotech MBC and compressor from 10-20psi though new ones would be nice. -I have polished up a plennum still have water pipes and throttle bodies to do. -Hardpipe kit along with a pair of HKS SSQV bov's (already purchased). -750cc jecs injectors -Exedy heavy duty TT clutch came with the TT and is pretty much brand new. Turbos I believe have been highflowed and have GCG tags with 300zx H/F, though this could mean nothing. While speaking with Andy at the nats he informed me that his first set of turbos on his slicktop were also CGC hiflows, though GCG do not swap the CHRA for larger ones...something about larger cartridges internally which im not sure on. Also on the tags and the compressor housings they have Xtr stamped into it, again not sure on the details... Either way they seem in good condition with zero shaft play or resistance. Pics before I took the engine out... Pics of the AMS manis compared to stockos.. Need to figure out if exhaust gases will be too slow and up the lag with AMS manis compared to stockos... I think it will be abit slower, though at 15psi it may help. Few engine pics...I'm well and truely delayed on this project block should have been pulled apart by now but uni is over in 3 more weeks! Dumps with a long split from the wastegate through to the merge. Pics of the unknow GCG 'Xtr' turbos. More pics will follow as parts and progress goes on.... Matt.
Tonights progress Timing belt, water pump and cam gears are off... I originally removed the belt then went onto the cam gears - big mistake. Belt went back on to stop the cams from moving while I started to undo them. Cams are all lined up so #1 is at TDC of compression. I found that both the intake and exhaust gears/cams (on drivers side head) where they are in position to the markings on the backing seem to be under alot of pressure and as I removed the belt they both started to turn anti clockwise for about 45 degrees (10 o'clock position). I slowly turned them to this position as they were going to flick over at any moment. Why is this so??? No nasty noises where made so I don't think there is any damage. Oil starting to come out of the intake gear... seems they have failed and I did have the cam gear rattle sound before the engine came out. More oil..... After an hour or so I finished up here.... Aiming to have the heads off this weekend...all the labling and marking cam caps will start.
Thanks for the thread. I'll be throwing my new forged TT donk in my n/a 2+0 so I'll be keeping an eye on this.
Heads are off! Heads came off on Saturday in 20 mins or so, glad I went ahead with this head gasket has been blown. Cylinder 3 has serveral rust stains only thing I can think of is once the cooling system was pressurised and the engine was switched off water would seep through the gasket. Pics will be up tomorrow night.
Pics Heads came off pretty easily I though VG's ran head studs from factory not head bolts... anyway onto the pics. Very dirty indeed. The rust stains. Intake valves are marked EG and exhaust are marked 40 not sure what these markings mean im guessing just standard cast markings. Where it's currently at.
Need help removing lower crank gear on the crankshaft as i'm trying to get the oil pump off, any tips or advice?
There is the angle grinder / cold chisel method to crack it off Then there is the drill it / tap it, and pull it off with a home-made jig either way it wil be stuffed when it comes off.
Hey Mitch I was going to use the angle grinder and chisel, I am replacing the oil pump with the new one. Can I cut into the oil pump as well with the grinder so I have one full cut through the gear? Thanks
They are a press fit, so there is some pressure on the gear. A small cut and a sharp knock with a chisel is enough to crack it through, and get the thing off. You need to make sure you dont get the crankshaft with the grinder. This video shows the same sort of process. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQdb5it7eJQ
Rods and pistons are out! Big thankyou to Ron, for comming around on Sunday morning to lend me a hand with an extremely stuborn crank sprocket! I didn't have my angle grinder with me on the Saturday to cut into the sprocket so I was basically stuck on the Saturday. Big thanks to DinoZ as well for answering my endless amount of questions!...no matter how many questions you ask or read service manuals and other sources of info it all makes sense when you actually start to rip into it, very slowly. Didn't get a chance to get pics of the man in action Hopefully the below pics will help those who try to remove theirs in the future, this is what we were doing before we drilled into it and split it open. Rods and Pistons patiently waiting for new rings and bearings.
Definitely is fun! When I eventualy junk my daily the RB30 will be comming out for a RB30/26 combo... what to put that in now
Happy to help matt Get it all stripped, give it a good clean up and you will be like a kid at christmas time when all your parts arrive to put it all together.
Should have them here possibly tomorrow or Friday... I think I know how these marks got in there, when I did hit the block with the karcher the manifolds were off. I think the mist must have gotten in there through the exhaust side. Aiming to put the bottom end together next Saturday, and if the heads are also completed by then it most definitely be Christmas in July.
Should have them here possibly tomorrow or Friday... I think I know how these marks got in there, when I did hit the block with the karcher the manifolds were off. I think the mist must have gotten in there through the exhaust side. Aiming to put the bottom end together next Saturday, and if the heads are also completed by then it most definitely be Christmas in July.
Parts are in from Coz Ordered on Monday, shipped on Tuesday and delivered today... I did pay an extra $30 for express post, though that service is exceptional. The rebuild can begin...
Bottom end done. Had Ron (Wizard) come around last Sunday to walk me through on the assembly of the bottom end. Didn't take a whole lot of pics was busy de-greasing and making everything clean, spotless and perfectly dry. Bearing clearances with the new ACL's were perfect. Pic showing the honing of the cylinders...have a few more which I will have to update soon. Heads should be complete by end of this week, once there back only have them to torque up drop the lifters and cams in and it's all done. On that note I have started to strip the n/a feels soo wrong to be pulling apart a car that is perfect, almost want to stop on the swap. Taking my time real slow on it all so everything goes back exactly as it comes out.
What was the specs of the hone? Did you go for standard rings or something different? it's coming along nicely. I'm sure you now know how much of engine building is being precise, methodical, and level headed with your build. It's looking real good mate.
