Everyone's interpretation of fitting properly is different, but I agree with you. Some people may not want the slammed look though.
Thanks for the replies guys! I only fitted the rear just to see the fitment and the wheel was hanging out a good two inches. I'm not too sure how it's all going to go once the RUCA are installed and it's lowered, fingers crossed though. It's definitely going to need guard rolling for them to tuck under the guards! Hopefully the adjustable RUCAs I have can bring the camber out a fair bit so that they do fit. I didn't intend on buying rims any time soon but I saw these on gumtree yesterday and had to get them as I have always wanted them. Which is now why I don't have the money to spend on a new set of coilovers As for the fronts, I could go with a cheap eBay FUCA set but your post scared the crap out of me. Definitely don't want that to happen to me. I have been looking on eBay and I've found springs from the US which claim a 2 inch drop (2" is probably way too much). Here's the link: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/M2-SAE-S...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a022a4864 Has anyone on the forums used them before? I know that coilovers are 100x better than lowering springs but do you think that I could get away with just fitting the springs with adjustable RUCAs? Sorry for the 21 questions! I appreciate all of your help guys.
Progress finally So to summarize the last 9 months after much frustration, hassels and time wasted by original mechanic, I finally have got the TT home in running condition but not roadworthy and this was about a month ago now. I have been slowly working through the list of things to fix for RWC currently only thing holding me up currently is waiting for an order from CZP Problems fixed so far - Hicas Lockout bar Alligned at local Tyre joint. - seat belt buckle installed - was unbloted?? - New brake master cylinder installed - as prev was leaking - clutch pedal fitted properly - only had 1 bolt holding onto clutch master cylinder aswell as the pedal not bolted in at the top mount, so dash pulled to fix - dash lifting at demisting vents pinned back down while out - AC Ducting installed behind dash as was left out. - Highbeam light not working problem diagnosed to dodgy relay and blown fuse - HID install low beam - LH Mirror mounted properly - was loose as a goose. no bolts - front window washer bottle located... turns out TT's use the rear window reserviour but only NA's have the seperate bottle up front as they block the air flow on the TT SMIC I assume. - power steering intermittent - sensors bypassed and (ign active) 12V ran direct to solonoid ) - mount turbo Timer - Brake calipers Resprayed Black Currently items to fix, most just waiting on parts from CZP - install dipstick tube... yes that's right it doesn't have the tube/guide at all!! so no idea what oil level is!! and will be a bitch and a half to install with the engine in I imagine... sigh - new speed sensor + fit starter motor spacer plate (As I was told the gearbox I bought was a TT by seller (tony321) but infact was a NA and came without majority of gear to convert even though I was originally told from seller was complete kit) - adjust handbrake, lifts too far - bleed Brakes - slight oil leak from RH SMIC and possibly oil cooler still gotta get under and have a good look at that. - install boost gauge (are they ok for RWC in VIC??)
Dipstick tube is passenger exhaust manifold off... don't think it's possible with the engine in. SMIC's can't leak oil unless you've got a massive turbo problem haha. TT's use washer bottles in the same location, 2+0's use them in the back 2+2's in the front.
I thought as much, I had a look at a complete TT engine sitting out by itself and even out of the engine bay it'd still be a bitch to fit with manifold fitted. I was thinking as it originally blew a head gasket it may have built up previously from that? but I dunno?? Hmm well my NA 2+0 has one up the front but either way it works now and that's all that matters to me
