After owning my Gunmetal Grey NA for 4 years on my L?s and P?s, the time finally came to upgrade... This Zed was actually very spontanious purchase after much research and mind changing (every week it was different) debating and arguing, mainly with myself about what car to get next (once i was off my P's, I finally narrowed it down to 3 cars and had started saving for (Clean late model Supra, a cheaper 350Z or M35 Stagea AR-X) but then a Repairable TT came up that was too good of an offer so that list was scraped and literally 3 days after seeing the add I went up and put a deposit on my new zed and picked her up a few weeks later. So this is the TT I?ve got! It?s a 1992 S2 Slick top 2 seater auto and very clean with 170,000k?s which IMO seems accurate looking at wear on interior, exterior and other parts, you may have seen it in for sale section a few months back. Unfortunately the Previous owner Allan (Big al TT92ZX) had her stolen from him and had the head gasket blown and then left on the highway surprisingly no damage to body work or interior. But here a list of what had been done to it? - Automatic gearbox had been completely overhauled; $2500 worth of work was completed. - 100,000 kilometer service had been completed at 160,000km, which included timing belt, belt tensioner?s, water pump, thermostat, crank and camshaft oil seals, etc. - New Cam Cover gaskets and Half-Moon seals had been installed. - Cooling system had been pressure tested. There were no leaks at the time. - BRAND NEW engine bay wiring harness had been installed. (Fresh connectors) - Series 2 PTU installed. - Advanti Volt 17x8 inch front and rear Alloys installed, no gutter rash. - Bridgestone Adrenalin 235/45/R17 tyres all round - Koni Yellow Adjustable Struts professionally installed front and rear, along with Tanabe GF210 springs front and rear. - Tune agent adjustable camber arms professionally installed front and rear. - A1RM brake pads professionally installed front and rear, plenty of meat left on them. - Plenum/manifold pull completed to remove under-plenum water hoses, clogged exhaust gas recirculation valve and associated piping, air induction valves, and PRVR system. - Blue silicone intake, vacuum and brake booster hoses installed. - New PCV valves and all new OEM tubing installed. PCV pickup reroute completed - prevents oil entering intake while cornering. - Apexi power intake air-pod installed. - AMS lightweight under drive alloy crank-pulley installed. - Sard adjustable fuel pressure regulator installed along with Autometer fuel pressure gauge under bonnet. - Oil and oil filter changes were completed every 4000-5000 kilometers. Always ran a quality synthetic oil, usually Nulon 15W-50 or Penrite S in 15W-40. - Pioneer Head Unit, US Audio DIN gauge set and Kicker SS component speakers installed in the front. - Marble trim kit installed. - Fairlady Velour interior, including OEM Fairlady floor mats. - Both the Oil pressure gauge and boost gauge were both functioning correctly and giving accurate readings. - Nismo clear side indicators installed. - Bomex spoiler. - Tinted windows.
You forgot to mention what i would imagine to be VERY rare, "electric velour passenger seat". Congrats, now just hang onto your license.
What's been done so far Obviously brought her down to the Workshop in Geelong (Brytech) ENGINE So now it was time to see what was needed to get her back up and running. Initial plans were to just replace the head gasket and get the heads shaved and put it all back together as all service item had been done quite recently than if the bottom end was in anyway affected i.e. needed new rings or bearings just get a complete replacement TT engine at a cheaper price so it was a fool proof plan in my head. That was the plan when I got her back in Early July since then I have had Brytech look at the condition of the engine and after a few simple checks found it had around 5psi and 30 psi the max compression reading!! So from that we?ve concluded that the piston rings had died..but on closer inspection had found they had rusted out from water sitting in the cylinder, (as it was sitting with the blown head gasket since September last year) so that meant it would be getting a replacement engine so got Bryan (Brytech) on the lookout for a replacement. After only a week Bryan had found a stock TT going for cheap with low k?s on it which was perfect so gave him the go ahead but after talking with the seller/ dealer he changed his mind and decided he wanted more instead so he thought that was too much and said he keep looking. So it was only about another week or two until Bryan had found a fully Rebuilt TT engine with a forged bottom end refurbished and mildly ported heads plus high-flowed T25 Turbo?s So now that it was going to be a rebuilt forged motor I decided I would get a few little extras (just in-case parts) to protect my investment?we will do a full 100k service (parts provide by Bryan) on it also it is just a short block+ Turbo?s, no accessories or plenum etc. but we will bring those other parts across from the old motor and have purchased a few maintenance items to install while motor is out and apart - CZP 300ZX Braided Stainless Steel Turbo Oil Feed Lines - CZP 300ZX Turbo Coolant Silicone Hose - LH Outer - CZP 300ZX Turbo Coolant Silicone Hose - RH Inner - CZP 300ZX Turbo Coolant Silicone Hose - RH Outer - CZP 300ZX Turbo Oil Return Oil Resistant Silicone Hose - CZP 300ZX Turbo Coolant Silicone Hose - LH Inner - Nissan OEM 300ZX Coolant Bypass Hose - CZP 300ZX Twin Turbo Silicone Radiator Hoses, - JECS 300ZX Injectors 750CC Injector Kit - 90-94TT So at the moment Bryan is waiting on the engine Re-builders to deck and shave the heads and block (although this is a fresh motor he is unsure if they?ve been shaved +decked) so should be back in a week or two and Kalon, (Bryans Apprentice) has told me he will be pulling the old engine this week or next TRANSMISSION The next possible problem was the transmission and how to tell if it was shagged or not when it was stolen? (As Allan couldn?t run the car after it was stolen) So initial plan to solve this problem was just take it out of the equation (manual Conversion) even though it would mean more $$ to get it running it would save future delays and money on possible wasted $$ on labor costs if it was stuffed. But if it was working it means we could unknowingly pass off a fully refurbished auto in great working order for a few hundred? ??. So what to do?? I have decided to take a risk and leave it in there but at the same I am covering my ass and am in the process of purchasing a Manual conversion kit, this way I can prove 100% that the auto is in good working condition (or not) giving me and buyer piece of mind and hopefully a bit more $$ aswell (if it works), even though I will be paying more to have it converted to manual later (after a few thousand k?s) rather than when the engine is out, it shouldn?t be too much $$ difference in it, also it will break in the new rebuilt engine a bit more easily (not as much high revving) So I believe there is enough pros to leave it in.
:O you got lucky very nice buy. Nice progress on the car aswell. IMO you should the manual conversion while the engine out it'll make things alot more easier. It'll be a monster once it is manual!
Awesome, so happy to see her receiving the treatment she deserves and I'll be keeping and eye on the build! (PS: Shotgun a ride in it sometime when it's done!)
Small update There hasn't been much to update on this the last part of 2011 since september unfortunately all that has happened so far "as I have been told" is the new engine block has had the heads fitted just before christmas and the rest of the work is meant to be starting at the begining of next week, so hopefully I will have a bit more to update with then But still none the less I have managed to collect and purchase most the parts that were goin to make the zed exactly the way I wanted it and thought i'd post some pics up so you could have a look. Varrstoen 18" (F18x9.5 +22, R18x10.5 +22) Rear 10.5 running a 265 with the slightest bit of stretch clean rear spoiler + Ztoy front lip.. (arrived today ) Ztoy fog lights Bee-R Rev limiter (launch control), ARK Turbo timer and 5000k HID's A bit of inspiration.. kinda the look i'm goin for Black on silver fog light ducts will be Gloss black + strip across front and aus spec front indicators Gloss black Vinyl roof for the final touch (slicktop) and yes the idea was stolen from URHYNES ) stock rear spoiler will be fitted and sprayed silver, (that being black contrasts the silver a bad way and looks cheap) maybe an addition rubber lip on front bar just simple and clean is the goal
yeh after a test fit on the NA it's gonna need a FAIR BIT of camber + FAIR BIT of drop to fit neatly... Stock RUCA + Stock suspension = fail but the TT has adjustable rear arms.. but only lowered spring on sports shocks so we'll see how it looks on that, may need some powertrix coilover$
haha yeah! You'll definitely need more than lowering springs to get those looking good. You'll need to roll your guards dead flat too, maybe flair them.
With tyres + width like that, fitment will be somewhat similar to mine right? Taking into account the higher offset with more width... Btw if you need your guards rolled, call Gavin from Low Down Guard Rolling, did a great job on mine.
Cheers man, will definately be taking it to a specialist place and after seeing yours i'd be happy to go there, these rears will fit same offset as that Mclarenf1kids in US has the same offset only difference is he's on 19's I knew they would need a lot of work to fit but will be worth it...
Sorry for bringing up an old thread! I'm on the same boat as you at the moment. I bought a set of Varrstoen 2.2.2's today at a cheap price. I know the offsets aren't the best but I couldn't say no. The specs are: Front: 9.5 width 235/35/19 tyres +0 offset Rear: 10.5 width 245/35/19 tyres + offset I've put them on today just to have a look and yeah, it looks exactly the same as yours. I'm running stock suspension and RUCA at the moment. I've got a pair of adjustable RUCA's at the moment but haven't fitted them yet. I'm going to wait until I get some kind of springs whether it be coilovers or lowering springs before I fit the RUCA's. If you could tell me what you did exactly to fit yours it would be hugely appreciated! :br: Cheers, Tyler
They'll fit under stock guards with: - Rolled guards. - Rear camber arms, running around -3.5 camber. - Coilovers. You can run an aftermarket front upper control arm, but they can break... See HERE. Any more questions just ask away.
Just so you know, I'm running varrstoen 2.2.2's with 18x9.5+22 with no guard rolling required, nor did I need any camber arms. Tyres are 245/40/18 aswell. Give them a go, see how they fit and then decide on what mods you need. I sit like a 4wd too... Oh and Xavier sold his wheels because of fitment issues I believe.
That's why you didn't need to roll your guards. If you want them fitting PROPERLY you will NEED rear camber arms, coilovers and a guard roll.
