Evolution of my TT Slicktop.

yeah it worked out well. i haven't bought wire and the through plugs for the firewall yet but it shouldn't be anymore than 80 bucks. once that is done, the timing belt covers are sprayed in colour and i fit a new idler bearing and pulley it means the car is all one piece again and able to go for a blue slip. i still have heaps i have to do but its nearly there and nearly time to hit the track.

 

cheers mate, the vent is pretty big so it should keep the temps down in the bay.

 

i was going to grab a trade plate this weekend and drive to work in the zed to give it a good buff and polish and give it a quick detail but when i started it up the other day it sounds like its running on 5 cylinders. i took out all the plugs, cleaned and re-gapped them and its still the same. the fuel has been sitting in there for a while so i'll whip off the filter and see if its dirty inside.
im hoping another injector hasn't died but i've got this feeling that it has. if so then i'm gunna have to bite the bullet and spend more money i don't have on 800 or 1000cc injectors then get a tune done. sigh, sad face....

 

You can listen for injector pulse by putting a screw driver against the injector collar.

Isolate which cylinder it is first. Easy to do by unplugging a coilpack at a time. Then swap coilpack over, then spark plug etc... If problem still at same location whip out the multimetre and check coil and spark connectors.

Good luck.

 

thanks i'll give that a try soon

 

started on the battery wiring this arvo. im just running it through to where i want it and leaving a little extra in the back behind the trim for when i wire in an isolation switch later on. after its all fitted up i'll put in some P clamps to stop any movement.



this is the cable i got.


winding around the strut tower from the boot and under some bits and pieces..


along the the floor beside the seat..


under the ecu panel..


and eventually joining up with the factory cable which has been fed through the grommet where the aircon pipes used to go.


more wiring next week.

 

I'd be a little cautious about running the 12v positive next to the ecu like that. Would interference be an issue?

 

I have two 4 gauge wires running to my amps straight past my ECU and have been there for 5 years with no problems.

 

Thanks for the clarification

 

Yeah im a little cautious too so its going to run along the floor and well away from the ecu wires.

 

i neatened up the wires today using some self adhesive cable tabs for computers and home entertainment systems. keeps the cables nice and low and they fit inside the trims. i earthed the negative to the back of the parcel shelf mount.



this is going down beside the FPCU


i got three packs of two different types of tabs for $18. i wasn't to keen on getting screw in or rivet in clamps.
these ones use cable ties and are good for tight spots.

 

Our VE commodore cable doesnt look much bigger than that one . Maybe a little bigger

 

I'll see how it goes tomorrow hopefully it is ok. My mate is using the same stuff in his ski boat with a 350 chev and he assured me it will be fine. If not,then I'll strangle him with his cable.

 

Might find lower table here pretty useful.
http://www.rallylights.com/hella/SensibleWiring.aspx

Naturally, derating factors such as installation conditions and insulation rating dont come into play here, so might pay to run the larger cabling.

and here's a nice table for converting AWG to Metric

http://www.landersinc.com/With_fl/Html/AWG%20TO%20MM2%20CONVERSION%20TABLE.pdf

Recently purchased a new starter motor, came with all of the current loadings from test.

 

ok so i got everything fitted up and back in place this arvo and started up the zed a few times to test the cranking power. the battery has been sitting on the bench for 3 weeks without being charged, when i turned on the ignition it was reading 12.3v and it started fine. tried a few more times after letting it charge up for a while and it just got better. so fingers crossed it will be all good.
I also think i found my rough idle/running issue. while i was doing the highly technical injector test by placing a screw driver on the injector and then putting my ear to the handle, i could clearly hear each injector clicking. when i got to number 5 i could hear a hissing noise. turns out the cheap shit blue silicone vac hose going to the fuel reg has a leak. that hose runs from the balance tube. well i hope thats the problem cause i was going to change all the hoses back to black anyway.

 

replaced vac hose today and it made no difference so i did some digging. it is missing on the passenger side exhaust so i checked the injector plugs and they are old and brittle but still working. i took off the coilpack plugs one by one and number 5 was the culprit. when i took off the plug and had a look this is what i found....



im going to swap over this coilpack with number 3 and see if its just the fried wire and not a rooted coilpack.

 

Glad you are slowly tracking down the problem

 

Those stick on cable tie bases wont hold for long. Weight of the cables and heat and they tend to fall off. If you don't want to screw them on you could possibly glue them on with araldite.

 

cool i'll keep an eye on them and glue em on when they come loose. some feel pretty solid but some aren't.
i've got a guard roller and reshaper coming next week. i can practice on my front guards which need a respray anyway and then some mates bangers until i get it right. then i can get ready for some low and stretch.

 

thanks, lately i'm having those "one step forwards, two steps back" moments. just as i feel i'm getting closer to blue slip time something else kicks me square in the nuts. on the plus side its very nearly at a point where i can put it on a trailer and go to races, drags, drifts or powercruises and destroy tyres regardless of rego or not.