Car dying after 30 minutes of driving (mysterious)

oh and something else

i did notice though that when i left my bonnet open when driving it did not seem to cut out as often (cool air passing through. Aany more idea fellas??? its killing me this problem

 

3 things ....

1. Have you cleared old error codes and re-checked for new errors?
2. When the engine dies, is it total cut-out, or a major reduction in rpm, & stall?
3. Have you pulled engine main fuse, blue loop in box next to BMCyl & checked it's clean & undamaged?

 

3 things

1. No i have not cleared the error codes i will do this this afternoon

2. no the cars tacho jumps up and down just before it happens, it sort of cuts in and out and then it dies and will not start for 10 min.

3. no have not checked this but will also try this

any ideas on what it could be though could it be the CAS all together or........

 

Re: 3 things

You could try relocating the PTU, this fixed my problem of sometimes dropping a cylinder. Try and find a loction in the nose that has good airflow.

You said it helped if you have your bonnet open so it could just be the series 1 ptu (even though you have changed it they still arn't reliable)

 

PTU

No i dont think its the Ptu i have put another one in statight after it died once and the car would still not start so i think that rules the PTU....back to the old drawing board

 

When u say it does not start....

does then engine actually crank over????

 

CRANKING OVER

Yeah the car cranks but it does not fire up

 

If it happens again & u still have CAS error >>>

Then it could be the CAS itself. Grab a 2nd hand one from a wrecker & swap over.

Another remote possibilty is a wire in the loom from CAS to ECU is broken or shorting out.

 

cas and ecu

you may have a great point there mate cause i have both those error codes the ECU and the CAS how could i possilbly fix this??

 

Start with diagnostic as per FSM sect: EF & EC page 106

And also page 178.

 

I have a couple of suggestions

Try these things...

If it's the wiring then you should be able to reproduce the problem by simply pulling on the wiring or moving it laterally but not to hard, just enough to move it around a bit to see if the connections lose contact. If this doesn't work them move on to the next step...

When the engine is cold verify you can still start it. If it starts and runs then switch it off again. Whie the engine is not running grab a hair drier and heat up the CAS to normal operating temperature (engine bay temp) or a little above and then try starting the engine again...

Alternatively you can purchase some freeze spray from either Jaycar or Disk Smith for about $10 a can. Once the engine warms up and the fault occurs you can spray the CAS to cool it down. And then try to start the car again. The freeze spray should enable to you pinpoint the problem.

It appears your cars problem is temperature dependant. Although not very common I have known faulty semiconductors to exhibit such symptoms, it is quite rare though. I'm assuming the CAS consists of an optical device (semiconductor).

I hope the info above helps.

 

error code 42

ok i reset the the ecu and the CAS error code and the ECU error code has gone but i have code 42 the fuel temp sensor circuit could this be the problem with the car??? Where is this located?

 

Don't worry about code 42

ECU defaults to max f/pressure incrementally fter IGN/start. The connector may be off/dirty/broken... see pass side near inj #2.

Ok, so you've cleared the codes. Now you'll need to go for a drive & if car conks out, see if both codes re-appear. Or change the CAS/do diagnostics as per FSM.