Car dying after 30 minutes of driving (mysterious)

I have this problem...the cars dies after about 30km of driving. But if i wait ten minutes it starts again and i get another 20 or so km. I have replaced the ptu so it cannot be that and the old ptu when i opened it up there was nothing wrong with it?? Could there be any other explanation for this happening its pissing me right off?

 

Still sounds like a faulty PTU to me

did you replace the PTU with a new type 2 or a type 1 that was known to be good?

 

Was the exact problem happening with the old ptu as well?

When it dies...check for spark and for fuel pressure.

By the sounds of things it's either you've been unlucky with ptu's and you got another dodgy one...or perhaps your fuel pump is giving up...

 

THE FUEL PUMP??

Why would the fuel pump have anything to do with it??

 

well, if fuel pump dies, then you get no fuel...

and your car will konk out. Or perhaps the FPCU (fuel pump control unit) which sits behind the passenger seat is playing up and intermitantly cutting out your fuel pump..

Cheers

 

Did you check for ECU codes?

They don't always present when a zed fails to proceed but if they do show up they'll lead you straight to the fault.

 

ecu errors

yes i have two codes 11 (CAS) & the ecu error code. could this be a problem

 

CAS connectors!

Clean 'em thoroughly & retension the female pins.

 

if you are still worried about PTU

there is a way to check if it is good by checking continuity between different pins. it is outlined in the service manual.

 

NOT PTU CAN IT BE THE FUEL PUMP!

Ok i bought my 3rd ptu and this time it was a newish one same shit after 25km the car died.....waited 10 minutes it starts again and drives. During the ten minutes it did not start i swapped Ptu's to a working one and still it did not start. PLEASE HELP!! its driving me insane!

 

If you want answers please provide more info ...

... ie have you checked CAS connector & cleaned it?

Does fuel pump 'prime' @ IGN on?

Have you checked all other connectors?

 

2nded, CAS error code is your problem. Clean the terminals

on the cas connector thoroughly... both male and female terminals. Take off LHS intake pipe to facilitate ease of working on CAS connector.

Trust us, this WILL be your problem...

PS: What are you doing with your old PTU. I'd like to buy it pls!

 

CAS connector

Thanks guys ....no i have not checked the CAS why would faulty CAS cause this to happen to me?

 

The design of the CAS connector sees the weight of the

connector and associated wiring being supported by the connector itself and over time the terminals can loosen. Bumps in the road, hard acceleration, braking ect all can induce loss of connection.

The CAS is critical to engine operation as it indicates the location of the crankshaft (in a 360[sup]0[/sup] arc) to the ECU which in turn sends the appropriate injector the signal to fire. There are four terminals to check in the CAS loom...

Coupled with this if anyone accidentally moves the wiring loom leading to the coolant temp sensor on front of engine, this can worsen the problem.

Check it out...

 

cas

Ok! that all well and good but it still doesnt explain why it cuts out always at around the 30 km mark. and 5 minutes later it restarts if it is in fact the CAS at all. :unsure:

 

You've asked for help...

someone suggested an ecu test ...

CAS error code came up...

Two people have now confirmed CAS connection is 99% likely culprit ... in four separate replies ...

You then asked why the CAS is the culprit...
I thought I provided a reasonable reason...

You've now bought three PTU's so far (at what cost/time?)... but you won't spend less than 20 minutes cleaning the CAS connection for free?

If you are so sure it isn't the CAS, then please explain why do you get the CAS error code...

If you're going to question people's replies, as least have the decency to try out their ideas first instead of repeatedly demanding people defend their suggestions.

Both Rob and I have worked on scores of zeds that didn't start where the CAS connection was the cause...

but by all means ... don't believe us and keep on asking for and then discarding the help people offer you...

 

CAS

Sorry mate, i hope you did not take that last message the wrong way there was no harm intended..... i was just wondering why the CAS would cause this.....the technicalities of it in other words i am interested in it. I do not doubt you for a minute bud, as that is the only other thing left that it could be. I have cleaned the terminals and so far so go...thanks for the help.

 

No offence taken, I was just curious why you weren't trying

some of the suggestions...

Anyway, the reason HOW the CAS connection can stop the engine is it is a critical engine component that the ECU and fuel injectors rely on. Usually they just stop the engine cold but anything is possible...

PS: Once you've cleaned the connection (both male and female), don't forget to re-tension the female terminals so they 'bite' onto the males properly...

Cleaning then usually 'opens' up the connection which can cause its own problems.

I've seen many a person (myself included early on in the piece ) do a great cleanup job on dirty connections, only to leave the females terminals wide open from the enthusiastic scrubbing. Of course the problem (lack of connection) is still there only now it's caused by a gap, rather than corrosion...

Good luck and hope this solves the problem

 

I have managed to find new CAS and PTU connectors

They are dear as poison, but they can be got. One is $38 and the other is $32 each. :wacko: This of course is a total rip arse but what can you do.

I could run a group buy for them if people wanted them

 

not the CAS connectors

Ok i cleaned the CAS as instructed by you guys and the other day on a trip to terrigal it died on me again so what next???? :-(