Oi martini I've got Thursday and Friday off next week, give me a tell and I'll come over and do stuff I'll bring my super tools too
you're welcome to help me get my dumps off dude... this is doing my head in more minor updates ordered a 100w (yes, 100 watt!) 4300k h3 HID kit for my high beams. I know from experience just how helpful it'll be on late night twisty runs through places that don't have street lights. I'm pretty sure the sun is rated at 100w. ordered a boost gauge too: took me AGES to find an actual good looking cheap boost gauge in 60mm, white and PSI. I was going to get myself a Defi, but unfortunately the Defi D-series aren't in production anymore, and they were the only ones that came in PSI. Second hand ones are hard to find. What's more I just can't justify spending $200 on a ****ing gauge. This one'll be going in place of my OEM temperature gauge in my cluster. Can't wait to fit it! Will look boss next the rest of the white LED instruments. Also got these coming: and I picked up a new passenger windscreen cowl from my local. driver's side is in the post from Simpleton and I got a new clip set from Marcus @ Car Craze. Total cost less than $120. Whoop. CZP order is still on delay... More than a week 'til they'll have my turbo kit in stock. Then it's time to drop a solid 3k into this thing! On the list: - High flow turbo kit - Dogbone adapters for 13" front rotors - Slotted/drilled rotors, 13" front stock rear - Targa hook and full moulding kit - Clear 1/4 lenses - Weatherstrips and shit - Clips, screws and shit - Brake rebuild kit, new pads - 20 new wheel studs - WINDOW RUNNER BOLTS so yeah -A
all this hard work to put a set of crap tuneagent dumps on not good for for your gt525 upgrade can you measure the turbine wheel opening on the dumps (not the waste gate side)..
Ha Rob you miss the point -THEY'RE SHINY!! The stainless will sound nice too, but yeah a lot of work for a cosmetic mod
shut up you two. I know these things won't help me up top but everyone I know that's had them reckoned they freed up low end. and they sound better. and they were really really cheap! besides, benny made 320 at the wheels with these and that's more than I'm going for. I hope to have this thing at the exhaust shop by the end of the week, which means rego next week Graham! fingers crossed.
Just re-read thread again. Damn I wish I had your resources. Some adventure-quest build shit goin on in this thread.
...what resources?! I've got a bunch of second hand tools, second hand jack stands, a borrowed trolley jack and a driveway I can't drive out of!
a real update the last few days have been nuts trying to get ready for zed fest. the plan was to throw the car together by friday to get it to the exhaust shop. THE PLAN WAS A SUCCESS wednesday night: driver's side dump finally came off. this was fantastic because frankly I was starting to crack the shits with it. I'm not sure what I would've done for zed fest otherwise; probably borrow a stock catback for rego or something. Really didn't want to pay for a cut and weld on my Evolution only to have it undone a month later when we pull the engine for the new turbos :\ thursday was nuts. picked up my 4300k 100w HID kit and spent ages fitting it. three issues here: 1) cutting out some "spacers" with a dremel to place between the new H1 HID bulbs and the metal bracket that bolts in inside the high beam housing. these are required because otherwise the bulb simply won't be held in place, with some 4-5mm of free play in its position 2) 100w kits apparently don't wire in like lower power HID kits. they require a direct hookup to the battery. unfortunately my kit assumed the battery was at the front of my engine bay behind one the headlights, so I had to drop down to jaycar and crimp together two sets of eyelets with some power cable for an effective extension. 3) the ballasts are HUGE! I had to reposition all the stuff currently bolted underneath my headlights to get them to fit haha. no pics of the kit unfortunately, or of the highs in action because I'm a dope shit. got a pic of the headlight bay though! it was untouched a month ago lol professionals use cable ties shut the **** up then I took one of my FMIC pipes down to my local exhaust shop to get my intake temperature sensor welded in then I did the dumps. no pics unfortunately. aftermarket dumps were SO much easier to get on than the stock dumps - being so short, the stock dumps have the big 3-bolt getting in the way of your hands. the longer aftermarket dumps are easy to reach around - on both sides, you can reach all 4 bolts from underneath and do them up pretty well. I will say this to anyone thinking of changing their stock dumps with the engine in: it's very much doable. it's a really simple task. BY GOD IS IT SHIT. how I did it: didn't remove the brake master cylinder and I don't have small hands or long arms. 1) get the front decently high on stands and unbolt the front pipes from the dumps (three nuts each side, 12's I think) 2) crack the two 13mm nuts on the underside of the driver's side dump. did this with a spanner and 1' cheater pipe, easy 3) unbolt the 3 (ALL OF THEM) factory heat shields around the driver's side turbo and brake lines next to them. they all use 10mm nuts and are easy to get to, but impossible to see. you'll have to find them with your fingertips. one requires taping a 10mm spanner to a long screwdriver or something so they can be reached. 4) Unbolt starter motor (BIG help!) 5) this is where it gets really hard. grab your 13mm spanner, and cut it in half. I managed this with some bolt cutters which was pretty sweet. you need it to be about 2.5" long. 6) cut a groove on one side of the spanner, near the end where it's been cut off. 7) remove plugs, vacuum lines, master cylinder brace etc in front of the master cylinder and reach down (read: PAINFUL) all the way to the top nut closest to the driver's chassis rail. Fit the newly shortened 13 around that nut so it protrudes toward the chassis rail horizontally with the cut groove pointed downward. this is only possible with the vertical brake line heat shield unbolted. 8) get underneath with a long piece of metal or something, and poke it up past the dump and into the groove cut into the spanner. the groove is there so that what you're poking up doesn't just slip off the spanner. 9) hit the other end of your poking stick with a hammer! bam. nut undone. almost lost my shit when I did it. the rest is pretty straight forward. 10) Socket, extension to clear the dump and cheater pipe to get the last bolt on the driver's side. 11) remove the battery to gain access to the passenger side dump bolts. they're not hard to undo. Had to repeat my cut socket-hitting stick method for one though. I got the new dumps on on Thursday night. Headlights back in, battery connected, brake stuff all bolted back in. All HID's work. Sick. so then this: lead to this: prettying up my otherwise mundane street. so we smashed it. bolted the starter motor heat shields back on, AC condenser fan back in and max high'd the coilovers. which lead to this, IN ONE MOVEMENT check out my speed grooves at the top of the driveway "4x4 spec" mikey caught a pretty solid derp here so that's how the car went to the exhaust shop. no rego, p plates, number plates, exhaust or front bar hiding the pod-fmic-pod. like a boss. it was pretty funny lol something utterly unexpected was the over run. with just dump pipes, you would not BELIEVE the sounds coming as I ran down the revs. just b-B-BANG b-BANG. it was incredible! like running just dumps isn't loud enough, there was a trail of bungers going off behind me... so here we are. first time it's been in a workshop so far. moar updates tomorrow. i am le tired -A ps: MY CAR HOLE IS EMPTY OMG
I have the same thing in mine except i got H1 for the high beams, they are super bright and with the 4300k they are nice and white rather than that homosexual blue. Be interested to see how you get the H3 in there.
Sorry, my bad, I got H1 as well. Well, not originally - I picked up H3 then had to drive back to swap for H1 >_> I attempted to fit the H3 but they don't go through the metal bulb brackets. I've got 6000k in my low beams, nice slight blue tinge but the high beams are all function.
So I'm sitting here on my laptop staring at my zed idling so I guess it makes sense to update! Picked up the car later that day from the exhaust shop. $400 later my cats had flanges welded to both ends, front pipes had been chopped and re-flanged and the whole lot is bolted up and hanging. Couldn't be happier x) Evolution isn't sounding completely like the videos but I'm not fussed because frankly, it's fantastic. No drone, no rasp regardless of temperature or rev, and just an awesome sound. I'll try getting some videos with my phone/a digital camera, but am not entirely confident. Had a blast getting it home from the exhaust shop and then proceeded to... thrash the shit out of it around my block We messed with the Profec B until we finally managed to get it going (setting min boost wut?) and eventually got it to about 12.9 PSI. The thing flies! It's hard to pinpoint just how well it goes compared to how it was when I got it because I really haven't had much ability to compare the too - and all the mods went on at once, not incrementally. Only ran in to two issues - pretty happy since I haven't driven the damn thing since pulling it apart and changing a LOT 1) could hear a tiny coolant leak when we shut it off. Got underneath and found when Mikey and I put the radiator in we didn't tighten the drain plug. Derp. Sorted. 2) ECU talk read only 13.3-13.-4 volts from the alternator. Tested it on the battery and read a solid 14.3 volts, so I'm not sure what's going on there. Must be a voltage drop between there and where the ECU talk gets its reading from. I really need a boost gauge! haha trying to read a Profec in the glove box is just no good. I've got one in the post coming from the UK, can't wait to mount it in place of the OEM temperature gauge. The Zed did get pretty hot on the runs. It averaged about 89*C which is fine considering there was no cruising; just flooring it, turning around and flooring it again. After doing so if we pulled over and left the thing running it went into the low nineties. I'm putting this down to heat soak after running it hard because at this second I've been sitting by it for 1/2 an hour with it idling and the ECU talk is still reading 80*C. No coolant leaks either. Sweet. I've booked in my blue slip for Thursday! Mikey will be coming over to drive the thing as I'm still on my P's If all goes well all I'll need to do is pay the green slip, pick up my plates from the RTA and... omg. it'll be registered. -A
