Another manual conversion - Progress and Questions

So I learnt how not take out an automatic transmission...

All bolts were out, everything was clear and it still wasn't coming out. I was wiggling it back and for a fair bit and I moved to the front of the car and saw that less than half the jack was supporting the gearbox!

So I quickly built some supports from the cribbing blocks and pallet timber that I had around and re-positioned the jack. Once done it came out like a dream.

Of course as it came down it knocked the container of transmission oil and spilt about a litre of oil on my garage floor (rental house).

But it came out in the end and I spent a good hour cleaning up the oil...

So. Now i have an automatic gearbox for sale and loads of rags to clean up.

 

So I have to take a break from the car for a while. I'll pulled a muscle in my middle back and can't do any heavy lifting for a bit.

So I'll take the time to tidy up the garage and really clean up the oil, parts and bolts.

 

After too long a break I got back into it this weekend. And quickly realised that I have a bigger issue..

When taking out the exhaust I snapped one of the bolts on the factory header. And the replacement header that I have does not have the hole for the EGR valve....

Now with the transmission out, the bolts for the EGR are fairly easy to get to and I've seen a video of someone deleting the EGR from the bottom. I'm tempted to remove the whole thing, but I'm wondering:

Can you remove the EGR without taking off the plenum? Because if I have to take the plenum off then this just got a whole lot more complicated.

 

not that I have attempted it but with the gearbox out I reckon you could get to the EGR unit at the rear of the engine

You should be able to get to the EGR inlets on the plenum from the top of the engine bay. Delete these with blanking plates.

wriggling those hard lines out might be very difficult to do.

you could always cut the hard EGR line from the header, fold it over and squeeze it shut tight. It wouldn't be the first time I have seen EGR 'deleted' in this way.

 

As above, pretty sure you could access the egr itself with the gearbox out from below.

once the physical valve is removed there 3 tubes and and a vac line.

vac line delte and plug, two hard lines to plenyum can be removed with plenum on and the line to the header will not be required as your new header has it blanked off.....

 

FYI 90 ADM manual NA engine loom does NOT plug into a 92 JDM auto TT body loom...

aaaand the manual box loom obviously dosn't plug into the body either.

Time for some splice and dice.

 

Not quite sure if I understand this... My car is a 89 JDM and the manual box is from a 89 ADM.
From what I've read I'll just have to splice brake/reverse wires and have a plug for the Auto left over?

 

I was just kinda saying it in general...

I think you have the easiest way sorted, being to use the auto gearbox/alternator loom and splice in the reverse lights.

You can also bypass the inhibitor switch by bypassing the starter motor relay - im not too sure how to get at the relay - my mechanic is handling that - he may decide to just lock the inhibitor switch in 'park'

 

Ah I see.

The wiring is my number one challenge on this. That and keeping all the nuts and bolts organised

 

Haha. I may have used nuts from the auto box to attach my clutch master...

Well, I hope to have my wiring done either Thursday night or over this weekend so I will see if I can pass on the info and ill try to take some photos

P.s: have you thought about getting a thread repair job done on your manifold? i actually think one of mine is snapped to...

 

Oh man any pics' and info would be awesome.

I've got replacement headers from the donor so not really. I figured that the factory exhaust on my car would be shot so I planned to change them anyway.

 

Finally finished my swap last night! gotta say, that NA engine sounds SWEET.

It does need a speedometer corrector though as it reads roughly 12% low.

-

The wiring is actually super easy. There is a bunch of wiring attached to the auto box itself that is not needed, I used a connector from that to make a 'starter relay bypass plug' - We used the automatic gearbox/alternator loom to connect the gearbox and altenator to the rest of the wiring (the manual one had different plugs and wouldnt suit the body loom):

- speed sensor and starter plugs works perfectly

- a few spare plugs are not needed and will need to be tucked out of the way

- You need to pair of new wires for the reverse lights, the neutral switch and reverse light switch are right next to each other on the gearbox near the back drivers side, the one closer to the front of the car is the reverse one. the reverse wires run to the old auto gearbox loom plug, see photo, green and black are the reverse, chop the plug off the gearbox loom and use it like I did. the neutral switch can be ignored.

- bypass the park/neutral inhibitor switch, inside the drivers side guard (regardless of LHD or RHD its always in the drivers side guard) the black/yellow and black/white wires need to be bridged, I used a plug from the auto gearbox as pictured.

 

you need the gear from a tt speed sensor if you have a tt diff.

 

Can you elaborate? do you need to change the gears on both ends? can you use the auto gears in a manual?

cheers.

 

That one im not 100% of, looking at czp id say no
https://conceptzperformance.com/search.php?search=speed+gear


but you need to swap the gear out off the end.

 

Just need to swap the little plastic gear on the sensor itself, just undo the M6 bolt and pop the sensor out of the box then the gear is held on by a circlip. R33 manuals with the 3.69 diff will also work. You can still just do it with a speedo corrector or the little pot on the back of the cluster if that ends up being easier. Automatic gears don't fit.

https://conceptzperformance.com/nis...inion-manual-non-turbo-32743-30p20_p_2536.php

https://conceptzperformance.com/nis...nion-manual-twin-turbo-32743-30p18_p_2537.php

 

legend, thank you - so an r33 manual speed sensor gear from a car with a 3.69 will be good to fit and mesh up to the vg30de box?

 

stolen from another forum:

4.900 - C23 Serena SR20DE 4WD Auto

4.636 - C23 Serena SR20DE 4WD Manual, C23 CD20T 4WD

4.375 - R32 RB20DET 4WD, A31 Cerfiro RB20DET 4WD

4.363 - R34 RB25DE 4WD, R34 RB25DE Manual, R34 RB20E, R33 RB25DE 4WD, R33 RB25DET Auto, R33 RB25DE, R32 RB20DET, R32 RB20E,

C35 Laurel RB25DE 4WD Auto, C34 Laurel RB25DE 4WD Auto, C34 Laurel RB25DE Auto, C33 Laurel RB20DE Manual

A31 Cerfiro RB20DET, A31 Cerfiro RB20DE Manual, S13 CA18DET, S13 CA18DE, C23 Serena SR20DE 2WD, C23 Serena CD20T 2WD

4.111 - R34 RB25DET Auto, R33 RB25DET Manual, C35 Laurel RB25DET Auto, C35 Laurel RB20DE Auto, C34 Laurel RB25DET Auto, C34 Laurel RB20DE Auto,

S13 SR20DE (ABS),

4.083 - R34 RB25DE Auto, R33 RB20E, R32 RB20E (ABS), C33 Laurel RB20DE Auto, A31 Cerfiro RB20DE Auto,

S15 SR20DE, S14 SR20DET Manual, S14 SR20DE Manual, S13 SR20DET Manual, S13 SR20DE (ABS), S13 SR20DE

3.916 - S13 SR20DET Auto, S14 SR20DET Auto, S15 SR20DET Auto, A31 Cerfiro RB20E. 5 & 6 bolt

3.692 - S14 SR20DET ADM Manual, S15 SR20DET Manual. 5 & 6 bolt

3.583 - R33 RB25DE Auto, C33 Laurel RB20E Auto

* transmissions as stated, if not listed it means they are available in either Manual or Auto.

R33 probably wont have the right cog either.

 

Ah, right. R33 will only have one that suits the NA diff.