I admire your confidence, but get a second opinion from your turbo manufacturor. Alot easier to sort it now than later.
Turbocharger axis of rotation should be normal to direction of gravity within +/- 15* when installed on level ground" "Oil outlet should be in direction of gravity within +/- 5* when installed on level ground" from garrett
haha yeah then the other problem of where does the dump fit . Im sure less than 15 degrees may be ideal but ive seen many 4wds and planes have functioning turbos at bigger angles than that , even a decent race car would under cornering loads . My drain pipe will also meet the oil pan below the oil level but a breather near the top of the drain pipe should resolve that problem .
After this revelation, Im still undecided if this build is a good thing or a bad thing. V8=Good Turbo=Good Turbo angle=Bad Oil return=Bad Power=Good Reliability=Bad So you're ticking lots of boxes here buddy, but some things are either going to just work, or not work at all... On the other hand, every now and again you need someone to shake these things up to get some fresh ideas. It will come down to a constantly rebuilding things, and how deep your pockets are. Personally, I'd go all ghetto on its ass and use a flogometer to make more room.
They may have a wider operating range than 15*, but that is only momentary. You are already starting at about 40*. Add acceleration or cornering loads to that...
i dont think the reliablilty will be too bad but i have made it all very easy to work on and remove because i am realistic and i know something will have to go wrong , im not planning on running silly boost or anything and its definitly no race car that gets thrashed . Im 100% certain the turbo drain will not cause a problem as basicly with the breather at the top it will have to fill the entire drain pipe with oil before it can pressurise it . The only other option was to cut alot of the fire wall out or front mount the turbo and run a tiny exhaust .
i wouldnt call a 4wd up a hill momentary . The worst possible out come here is there is a very slight increase in pressure on the rear seal if it does turn out to be a problem i think it could be fixed with a vacuum pump or maybe a second drain hole
I am pretty sure you will find that when not running the oil will "drain" from the Turbo through the rear seal = lots of smoke @ startup ... may actually smoke when it's running as well because the rear seal will always have oil over it.
Yeah, but you will find with the rear seal being the lowest point, and on cooldown as the turbo cools, your going to compromise that seal and it won't take long before it becomes totally shagged. You'll find yourself doing an "turbo seal change" as part of your monthly maintenance. Don't think an additional drainage hole or vac pump will solve this problem
This is a race car that only goes in a straight line for about 8 sec and probably has regular rebuilds ...
The way he has his set its the straight line that would cause problems . lets all just wait and see , that is the only place to put the turbo if it doesnt work it will be made to work . If the turbo only lasted 5000 kms between rebuilds it really would not bother me . If any one thinks they have a better way to mount the turbo feel free to share .
It's hard to tell dimensions of that thing from the pics, but I'd be inclined to remove the battery and the battery tray, and use a hammer on whatever needs more clearance. Engineers will not like the idea of messing with the firewall... but I'm sure some clever piping and possible use of the inner front guard for an air filter would work wonders. Relocation of fuel lines or heat shielding, as well as something to protect the bonnet would be good. Could you cock the turbo so the collectors approach from underneath? Dump pipe would go around and down back towards the engine. Turbo might then fit horizontal in an east/west orientation. The body section of the FSM has all the engine bay dimensions might be worth mocking up some wooden framework to work out clearances
your pretty much describing where it is . the battery tray is already removed, all the brake and fuel lines have been moved to the other side of the rail and come up in the wheel arch and there is already a hole in the inner guard for the wastegate pipe to go through ( it goes around the chassis rail then back in under ) . The collector has to come from the top or else there is no space to get the dump out the bottom of the car .
I for 1 applaud you for doing something different ... sometimes we have to go with something regardless of what people say (been there and doing that with my own car ), hope it works out, either way we will have learn't something.
wired up my ecu adapter loom ready to go . Im now thinking about the intercooler if i need it or not maybe i should put an extra inlector or 2 on the intake with methanol injection instead or maybe as well . It would be nice not to have a intercooler pipe doing a lap of the engine bay if i could but i dont want to give away to much hp for it .Methanol injection should help with the very high compression ratio too . Time to do some internet reading i guess .
