extra stiffness is not a problem you can get it very solid with out a cage . safty is on another level tho so yeah . its a hard one
Yeah, there is a middle ground somewhere, it's just a matter of finding it. While you're here, is there any cheap way of finding out if a set of heads from a broken engine are any good or need to be binned? I think the engine may have got pretty hot at some stage. (This is the dead one the car came with, not the one I got from Sandeep)
the best way is to just pull it down and send them in . to not take and chancers. i have a mate that tests most of my thing.. p.m coming soon .regarding this and other things .. of to work now .
Yep - still around ... had really busy time at work in 1st half of year and then got belted with illness - spent all of June and half of July in hospital ... but all good now - have enven entered Sandown Historic's! Tyres are old (2007 date stamp), but have been kept cool and in the dark .. so the usualy UV impact has been avoided. I have a set of 17" and 18" wheels for our 300TT, but still buying bits for complete engine rebuild (parts cost around 15K so far, but getting close - just need turbo's and we can start the rebuild). RB
Glad you're better, and I'll see you at Sandown for the Historics. I've got a set of 17" wheels I was planning on using, no tyres yet though. When I'm closer to ready I may be interested in your wheels just to use the tyres up, it also depends on what brakes I end up going with, I may be able to get some monsters at a good price which would require me going up to 18" wheels. For a start I'll probably stick with the standard ones though, with good pads, rotors and fresh fluid they are really not too bad, especially on a lightened car. What have you done with your rebuild? Did you get any head work done? I've got a spare set of heads (may or may not be dead) and cams so was thinking about trying something funny with them. They are surplus to requirements and have no value to sell so there is no real loss if it does not work out. Maybe even have a go at porting the heads myself.
If the car isnt road registered you will have to have it caged and log booked to run in any CAMS EVENT. ASAA events you MAY just scrape in without the cage.
Finally an update. This has been on the backburner a bit with lots of other projects going on but I'm finally back on it. Mostly doing pretty boring stuff, cleaning up things, going over lost of the interior with a wire brush to get rid of teh sound deadening residue and excess seam filler and such, gringing off a gew un-needed brackets and such. Also been shopping! Adjustable tie rod ends: Solid engine and subframe monuts: Light weight flywheel: Aluminium driveshaft, seriously light compared to stock, feels like less than half the weight: Ben grinding some excess bracket off the bar behind the dash, back in the car for test fitting the dash. The steering wheel and dash support bar cleaned up, excess bits ground off and repainted back in the car: No pictures of the dash test fitting as it just went in briefly to work out what we needed to attach it and what we can get rid of then got pulled out again to strip off the terrible re-trim fabric and clean up all the glue and stuff off it. It's come up pretty well and with all the accessories and stuff gone only needs 6 bolts to hold in nice and securely. I've got Sandeep's old engine too now so technically all I need to do if I just want to do the minimum required get it going as is for now is sort out a decent seat and rail (not sold on the old Recaro that's sitting in it at the moment), sort out a new loom (sort of looking forward to the learning experience but not entirely looking forward to actually doing this) and get an ECU of some kind. Not sure about the ECU at the moment, Link has been suggested and I'm very keen on something with a MAP sensor so I can get rid of the AFM. The other option is finding a cheap stock ECU and using Nistune which I may be able to get hold of fairly cheap, not sure if that will do what I want as well as a Link though. Definitely much cheaper though.
Adaptronic 440 select. Will do everything you need, launch, flat shift, traction control and so much more at around 1100 with a loom. CANNOT be beaten for value and support is fantastic. Ill even give you a complete setup file and a tune to get you started!!! L8r E
A full loom ready to plug straight in? Would a generic loom that could fit in pretty much whatever engine it happens to get put with be a feasible thing? Seems like it would have to have silly amounts of extra wire on everything. Where would I get one? Its seems a bit cheaper than the Link though, I think teh best price for that I could find was about $1300 for a G4.
I went and had a look and Andy does a standalone plug and play for the Z32 for just under 1500. Minimises the farkabout factor for sure. http://adaptronic.com.au/products/selectpnp.html L8r E
Cheers for sharing this build. I've just scored a 2+0 N/A 96 to do the exact same thing. Definitely given me some inspiration.
Dude don't make a '96 track spec! 1. Sell '96 2. Buy '89-'91 3. Use money to make track. 4. ???? 5. PROFIT!
This actually does make a certain amount of sense. On the other hand there are reasons to do it. Later model engines have a few little upgrades and refinements that are worth having and it's also going to have had a shorter and probably easier life than an older car may have had. Also, it's just fun to do, if I had no luck looking for a cheap neglected slicktop for a bit longet I'd have imported a 2000 model Zed as a race only import just for the sake of doing it. You do need to decide how far you are going to take it though, are you going to keep it registered and road driveable or strip it right back and make a dedicated track car.
