A friend of mine has a 300zxTT and ever since here brought it has been running under power and a bit noisy from the left side of the motor near the front timing cover. So I have the job to fix it and I am being paid by a full manual conversion for my trouble.So I couldn't resist. I think the timing belt has been put on with one of the timing gear being one tooth out. I took some pics to show people and ask there option on here. This one is fine all lined up just hard to hold the camera straight at it. [ this one same thing. This one I think its clear it is out one tooth. Last one look fine also. Cam some confirm that one of the gear is out one tooth. Also how hard is the tension pulley. As I can push on the belt and close the tension right up. Pic are bad but you can see the pic with tension with a cap. Then a pics of me pushing the cap close with a big of pressure that can be normal can. So looking at new tension. And can the gear be put back forward one tooth with out the whole belt coming of buy just removing that tension pulley and installing a new pulley. Sorry for long thread I had no other way to explain it.
Shouldn't be able to push the tensioner in like that. Do you know if it has had the 100k service done? It does look like the timing is out by one tooth, but that wouldn't be causing the noise, nor would it cause a significant drop in power.
not sure on the 100k service The heads have been of the car buy previous owner and new owner does not know what was done to there.Told there we rebuilt. Wouldn't one tooth out cause a little loss of power due to timing being out just that little bit. I didn't go for drive in to see what power loss it might have. The noise could be the belt flapping around due to that very lose tension pulley.
It doesn't appear that the timing belt is on wrong. The marks on the cam sprockets and the rear timing belt cover will never line up 100%. Count the number of teeth between the marks on the sprockets and see if they match up to the number in the service manual. If they do then it is possible then it is off by a tooth or two on the crank. Unlikely though. Another way of telling is to do a compression test. If one bank is consistently lower than the other then that suggests that the belt is off. Also pull the intake sprocket VVT spring covers and remove the bolts (hold with your hand while using a rattle gun, it shouldn't slip the belt that way) and check if the locating pin is in the keyway. The pin has a habit of breaking.
The timing belt doesn't look like it's on wrong, but being able to push on the tensioner by hand is. Yes, the noise could be due to loose timing belt. Hard to know without hearing the noise first hand. If you are unsure about the 100k service, I'd be doing it. Lack of power could be from a number of things. The engine bay doesn't look like it has been well maintained. Probably has a number of boost leaks.
Just added the tension pulley pics as I forgot to add them. Ok I will count the teeth between marks. SO the tension should not be this lose. These can't be adjusted they are auto aren't they.
Boost leak possible I will check that once I fix the other problems. Yes I have mentioned doing the 100k as the belt on this car is half as thick as my timing belt.
most people dont know that when you remove the tensioner you need to keep it under load by putting the bolt back in. if you release the piston you should get a new one as they are preset .my belt was flapping recently from removing and replacing the old tensioner that was on .. so bought a new one from coz. its perfect now.
so the tensioner could would have been removed and put back on with no tension on it upon install and it has failed. Wanted: Tension pulley.
trust me buy a one new ! ... not worth the damage it can cause ..I previously bent valves from one that failed!
yes I will get a new one. Just seeing if someone on here has a new one. Or Caz should have some. So in pic 3 are we all saying that it is not one tooth out.
crankshaft sprocket would it be possible to have the mark on the crankshaft out as I have not checked that yet.
all fixed now New tension pulley and timing belt went on today. Thanks for all the advise people. Run nice and smooth now he is so happy. And I get all my manual conversion bits.lol Mm do I sell it all and go SAW kit.
Knock senser Ok i have just ran a error code on this car and im getting code 34. So I have done the search and I can't find and good pics of the location of it. I know where it should be but I can see it on the engine. Is it that hard to see with engine in and plenum on as well. Anyone have any pics of one. What is the best way to clear the error as I reset ECU but still had the error. I can't check the senser if I can't pic witch plug it is. It would be running safety boost with code 34 wouldn't it. Any help would be great.
I's bolted to the block, underneat the lower plenum. You can bypass it with a resistor in the plug that goes back to the ECU. Check the tech section there is a good article on how to do it. Yes, you will be running in safety boost.
Yes I have seen that tech on doing that. But does it still allow the senser to tell the ECU if you do get Den Knock I can't remember. Also I have to figure out witch connection it is.
When the senser is bypassed, there is no way it can still tell the ECU if there is detination. Bypass at own risk. Plug should be at the back of the plenum, near the middle.
Ok I checked tech section and if you install a one meg ohm resistor on the connection to clear the error code and if detonation happens it will still go into safety mode witch is what I wont it to do.
