Surgical operation for the blue beast...

powder coated plenum would have been nice

 

Would love to in the near future. Don't have the dosh atm...

 

Have already sorted out this issue of "which goes where". Now keen to know a simple question:





Green circle goes on the black rectangle. Problem is I have lost the insulator which protects the connection and have already setup everything which prevents me from having easy access to that area. QUESTION: Is that insulation vital as it's the battery positive, I believe? Is it dangerous to leave that connection "open", uninsulated and without the rubber?



Arvin

 

Thanks Rob! Any suggestion as to how I can somehow "protect/insulate" that bolt connection from any possible hazards? Would squeezing a dab of silicone on it do the job?


Arvin

 

find a suitable rubber boot at any auto shop, wreckers or maybe even a gasket and seal shop. another plan would be to get some heat shrink tubing and slide it over the wires. when the bolt is done up, slide it forward, heat it, and shrink it. Presto, finito.

 

It should be no hassle doing it up if it hasn't been fixed on the engine yet. Problem is everything's already back in place. Got no easy access no more!

Will try to sort out a way tomorrow.


Thanks guys...



Arvin

 

finish this already been watching closely to see how the 2860R's perform.

 

Almost there.

Aren't they 2560R's?! I'm getting mixed up with all these numbers...

And also, what's the safe maximum boost I can play with them considering having stock internals, ECU and injectors? I do have Trust SMIC's, GFB hybrid BOV's, 3A racing pod filter, straight through 2.5"
exhaust, EBC and HKS dumps that go with the new turbos...


Arvin

 

Thought the GT28R's are 2860R's? Same, get confused with all of the variations (just a dumb light bulb changer). Will be interesting to see what they are capable of with stock internals if so, as going the same route turbo wise myself, with a bit of a variation in supporting bolt ons and auxiliary removal.

All of these threads on turbos is making me wonder why im spending $$$ on the NA instead

 

the turbos I purchased had numbers that matched the Garrett website as both GT28R's and GT2860R's, whereas the GT2860RS's has more blades in the impellors? They're at Eric's workshop, so cant check again.
Could be wrong.... certainly wont be the first time, nor the last. Personal investigation started with "they look bigger and cheap, wonder what they are?"

 

GT2860RS is GT28RS with tube inlet (off the shelf)

GT2860R is GT28RS with 2 bolt compressor housing (2560r comp cover for Z32)

GT2560R is GT28R with 2 bolt comp cover

note ..there are different types of gt2860r with different size wheels that are a direct replacement bolt on for GTR's

 

So whats the break down on the HKS GT2530?

MoulaZX

 

You wouldn't know the difference between THE HKS 2530 and the GT2860R on your car .
Only a very slight compressor difference ..everything else the same

 

You always come through with a good break down

 

my advice would be the bare minimum of boost with all that stock gear on there. those turbos will probably make the same power on 10 psi as stock turbos on 16.

be very very carefull even at 10psi untill you check the injector duty cycle etc.

 

Thanks rollin. How can the injector duty cycle be best checked and monitored? Hat are your recommended "next step" upgrades? Nistune, I should say? And injectors? Go 555cc or 750cc?


AAA

 

check duty cycle through conzult,ECU talk or other devices like a AVCR.

you need to do a full power pull ideally in 3rd or 4th and monitor or log the peak duty cycle, its usualy around the 5000rpm mark and its quite normal to see it peak in the 90's with stock injectors and a modded motor.

you could squeeze more power out of the stock injectors with a good 11.5to1 AFR tune as opposed to the stock 10to1

The next step if you're on a budget would be a set of early 555's with a mail order ecu chip to suit.