just finished doing this myself, unfortunately I have not had any success. Maybe its my soldering ? or maybe the part I got from ebay is cactus. I dropped awegasm a quick sms to ask if he can have a look Does anyone is near thornlie and has a S2 PTU I can borrow for ~5 minutes to test ? Cheers
Bit of a trek I might try and get down there next weekend. occured to me today I did solder it with the PTU in, I may have heated up the wires enough to fry the PTU.
I did 1-1, 2-2 etc 1 wire at a time (but its quite possible). Will check again, if anyone is near thornlie (or driving past) stop by with a S2 PTU for beers/ bitcoins/ other.
+1 The chance that you have broken it by soldering it in wrong is quite low. I bet it's the earth soldered into the wrong wire.
Can I trace the earth back to the battery terminal (with the battery disconnected of course) to identify which wire is earth ? Just digging up my multi meter now.
Thanks heaps for your help last night mate. I had the earth wire right, but had screwed up 1 other wire. He also diagnosed a bad injector connector which was the final issue. I suspect the injector connector is the same electrical fault that Ive been experiencing all this time - having already swapped a few coil packs and done a S2 upgrade. Thrilled to have the zed rolling again
The PTU's were recalled in the US due to their not being reliable. Everyone I speak to I tell them to do it. Your call.
from the tech section Faults with the Series 1 300ZX PTU Before I start here, I should say that we all owe a debt to Zcar91, for taking the time to research and come up with a fix for the unreliable series 1 PTU. Although it is in a single small package, the PTU is actually six different circuits, sharing the same package, connections, power supply and earth. What happens, most probably due to age, vibration and heat, is that an internal join fails in the PTU. This join is unfortunately a common earth connection, so it affects all cylinders. It also appears that the join is heat sensitive when it fails, meaning that the car will run when it is cold, but stall when the PTU gets hot. Fortunately, Zcar91 has come up with a fix for the series 1 PTU, and TTZ performance can supply a much superior ?Series 2? unit. Series 2 PTU Some have commented that their car runs much smoother with the Series 2 PTU, and may have more power. This could be due to the series 2 unit being able to turn the coil primary current on and off much 'harder'. If this is the case, this would result in a slightly higher energy spark, delivered more smoothly.
An Old topic I know and there are a few. It was hard to know which one to add my 2 cents to I recently replaced my Series 1 PTU with a Series 2 PTU and plug (no pigtails) Rather than adding wire and soldering I just cut the old plugs off and crimped on the new plug. In doing so I thought it would be worth mentioning: If you separate the loom far enough. The earth wire can be re-threaded up the other side of the plug harness to give a neater look. --- A side note: my car seemed to run smoother too.
That's just the way it is till such time the motor comes out and the way it runs that may be a while off. Or I change under there in a big way.
