Hey all, After having the zed off the road for a few weeks doing a plenum pull to try and find my misfire problem I've finally got the car back together with all new clamps and silicon on the hoses, new gaskets, new spark plugs (well I ran the car once or twice before the pull on them) and nismo 555cc injectors that were flow checked and cleaned before installation (they all had healthy coils on them too). Now I did cut the harness to my PTU to get rid of the Series 1 PTU plugs and soldered on the Series 2 plugs. I followed the original wiring wire for wire so I'm sure they're correct. I'm getting fuel to the rail as I had a few leaks to fix up. I'm getting 55: No Errors when I do an error check using Datascan. Are the coils on the injectors polarised? As in, it doesn't matter which pin the 12+ volts and earth goes onto? If they are I might have all the plugs for the injectors on backwards (they're new plugs which doesn't have the key for the injectors so the keys were removed from the injectors). Any ideas for what I can look for? Thanks, Marc.
See below Some possible causes (apologies if some are a bit basic (As I know you are quite mechanically minded) but its usually always the simple things that we gloss over whilst troubleshooting. Injectors: No, not polarised. they are just a solenoid so wiring to either terminal is OK. How long were they out of the car? If on the shelf in open air for even a few weeks, this can jam them shut/open etc. Also, if you used the new quick release style injector connectors (the ones that require the locating nub cut off), they sometimes don't seat down onto the injector terminals without a good push. Spark: Have you reconnected the two small wiring eyelet terminal screws that go onto the upper/rear of the plenum? On pass side, I think there are a branch of three eyelet terminals that connect to the one screw and on the drivers side, a larger single terminal. Leaving these off can kill the PTU upon starting. Also suggest pulling a few plugs and coilpacks. Place the spark plug tip close to the plenum whilst cranking and check for spark. While you are at it, check a couple other plugs for fuel fouling? Only takes a couple vac hoses left off initially preventing starting. spark plugs get fouled quickly in these conditions. When you fix the vac hoses, the spark plugs are now wet and will cause another reason for not starting Vac Leaks. Common to accidentally leave off a PVC or idle control unit hose. Particularly the ones that connect behind the balance tube and the actual PVC valve pipes under plenum. ALso the PVC pipe at the rear of passenger side head. There are five PCV related pipes and four idle control/AAC related. Also check the two vac hose spigots under the throttle bodys, also the drivers side turbo accordian inlet pipe spigot. How bout EGR piping into plenum, fittings nice and tight? Sometimes you can pick up the wrong length bolt and it 'bottoms' out in the plenum before the actual EGR pipe clamps are sealed tight. Also check for rags in the turbo piping TPS set correctly @ 0.44-0.46V? Fuel filter correctly connected? CAS connection disturbed (requiring cleaning/retensioning during PTU rewiring? Don't worry, it will prob be something simple.
Ahh thats how you check for spark. Well I pulled out #2 and plugged it into the coil pack and rested the thread of the spark plug on the plenum and cranked the car...no spark Both eyelets are bolted to the plenum too.
Aha. Recheck PTU wiring then. Might help to stand back for a minuite and check the wiring from ECU to PTU and PTU to coilpack terminals. Also try a few the spark test on a few other cylinders. Heres the FSM link
Would that FSM Diagram still be correct to use with the Series 2 PTU? But I'll double check the wiring for it tomorrow. If I have the wiring wrong, hopefully I haven't fried it.
Don't believe so. I matched the pins from the adaptor to the series one plug. Few wires where arse about to what you thought they would be. Wires on the other side of the plug and that sort of thing.
I may know what I've done. There are 2 black wires. 1 is a ground and the other is a feed to a coil (#6) I believe. I might have got them switched.
Yep, as Marc said just the coolant sensor. A zed will start and is sort of drivable without: AFM CTS 1 or 2 coilpacks 1 or 2 injectors Knock sensor 02's Fuel temp sensor FPCU Speed sensor Neutral switch And probably someother stuff I've forgotten about... 100% needs CAS and possibly the TPS
True, but... Any combination(s) of the below would be enough to prevent starting. Also if no FPCU = no fuel = no start (unless bypassed)
But wiull be running in safety map (rich fuel maps) which might be enough to foul plugs eventually, especially if there is another problem also
Oh yeh sorry mate. THought you said CAS. Lol! Plz excuse my drunken self! Yeh my car runs fine without CTS.
If I unplug my CTS, the car won't start. I assume the mixture is not correct for combustion for a cold motor
From checking with conzult etc. I have found that if you disconnect the CTS the ecu assumes certain values. Upon first turning the ignition, the ecu presumes the car is 20 degrees. Every couple of seconds after that the level goes up by 1 degree. Till it reaches 80 where it sits till you stop again. So yeh i dont know why yours wont start. Even if I trick my ecu thinking the car is hot when its actually cold, it still runs.
I'll bet $20 you have the PTU wired wrong. Its easy to fault find. look at the wiring diagram from the manual and mark the coloured wires with the coil pack numbers on both sides with sticky labels. IE: coil pack one may be red/black for example. So mark it "To CP1" or "From ECU CP1". Then look at the numbers on the S2 PTU. Numbers are molded into the casing. Then follow the correct numbers off the wiring diagram. The 7 pin side of the S2 PTU is the 6 pin side of the S1 ptu. The ECU CP1 lead goes to the Number 1 connection on the 6 pin side of the S2 PTU. Its pretty easy when you get your head around what you have to do. The 6 pin side of the S2 PTU is the input side, 7 pin side the output, and visa versa the series 1 PTU. The earth changes sides between the two. Good luck, Use a multimeter to figure out which of the black wires is which before connecting them up.
Well I swapped the 2 black wires after belling them out and I'm sure I had them back to front. So I've swapped them and still no go. I checked the pins from the coil pack back to the PTU. Centre Pins have 12+V, then the 2 outside pins have GND and Signal from the PTU. How do you test a S2 PTU to check if it is still good? I'm prolly going to have to call for some help as I still have the original S1 Plugs and S2 Harness plugs and I've followed the colours wire for wire, the only 2 that were iffy were the 2 black ones.
