The zed died a few weeks back thanks to the fuel pump & it also currently has a rear main seal leak which when further looked at, turns out the front sump seal needs to be replaced aswell. The gearbox is already off the car. Is there anything i should be replacing when the gearbox & sump is off? Im thinking of getting a new sump to go with the new seals. Anything else? I might get the clutch replaced & flywheel machined if needed aswell. Ive already gotten the following parts off the order i received last week from Coz: 17342-01A00 Nissan OEM 300ZX Fuel Pump to Tank O-Ring Z32 17042-40P05 Nissan OEM 300ZX Fuel Pump 90-96 Twin Turbo TT Z32 12297-F6500 Nissan OEM 300ZX Rear Main Seal Retainer Z32 12298-7B001 Nissan OEM 300ZX Rear Main Seal Retainer Gasket Z32 12279-AD200 Nissan OEM Rear Main Seal 90-96 Z32 11140-30P03 Nissan OEM 300ZX Oil Dip Stick Gauge Non-Turbo NA Z32 11121-14Y10 Nissan OEM 300ZX Oil Pan Gasket Rear Z32 25080-89903 Nissan OEM Temp Gauge Sending Unit 90-96 300ZX Z32 22630-V5001 Nissan OEM 300ZX Fuel Temperature Sensor Z32 22630-51E02 Nissan OEM 300ZX Coolant Water Temperature 90-95 Sensor Z32 A7050-30P00 Nissan OEM 300ZX Fuel Pump Jet Z32 Is there anything else i should get or do at the same time when the gearbox & sump is off? Any suggestions or help will be much appreacited. Thanks in advance.
Whilst you've got the gearbox off, no harm in replacing the o2 sensors if they haven't been done before, if possible maybe a squeezey chance of the det sensor.
Thanks for that. Ill see if they can do that while everything is off. I'm considering doing my 200k service while I'm at it aswell as get new bde low profile engine mounts & install my nismo transmission mount & redo the plenum pull aswell as its been a few years, so hopefully at the end of all this i wont have to spend money on the zed for quite some time, well fingers crossed atleast
Well if your going to do the engine mounts, may as well pull the whole motor and do it all whilst it's out.
From my research online, to fix my sump leak, the cross member will need to be removed & the engine will need to be lifted up using a engine crane, hence why I'm going to try & get the engine mounts replaced at the same time. All this is costing me a fair bit already, so not gonna spend anymore when its not necessary to rebuild the motor
Clutch fork pivot.... if the zed still has the oem pivot, I would suggest replacing it with an aftermarket item. The neck on the oem item is too thin and WILL break sooner or later.
I don't know why you are replacing all those sensors on the front of the motor if they are but faulty. You should definitely change the knock sensor and sub harness while the gearbox is out. You mentioned engine mounts; I have one set of BDE mounts in stock for $190. They are cheaper/lighter/stronger than stock hit me up if you want them.
I am fairly sure the last time i got my clutch replaced a few years back, i did get a heavy duty aftermarket one. Ill double check tommorow when i go catch up with the mechanic. Rob, i shall definitely be asking about the det sensor & sub harness. The reason for me replacing all those sensors is because while everything is off, i might as well replace the sensors as im sure its never been replaced & i would rather have the piece of mind of knowing that they are brand new rather than 20+ yr old sensors. Rob as for the engine mounts, do you have any of the low profile bde mounts? If so, how much? Also is the $190 inc post for the normal bde mounts? Let me know, thanks.
Don't ask about them, just purchase replacement items and have them fit while the gearbox is off. Fair enough but you realise you're replacing sensors that won't be "off" to begin with? Ie you're not saving labour you're adding to it. No low profile mounts in stock, they are normally twice the price and you don't need them anyway as you don't need to worry about clearing turbos. Postage is not included, the mounts are $190 and best thing for postage is aussie post medium satchel at $13.40
I had a chat & my mechanic said that he can clean up the det sensor & check all the connections on it. If its all good, he is going to solder the wiring directly into it & wire it directly instead of using the factory wiring which would get rid of all the plugs The reason for replacing the sensors is because ive decided to get my 120k service kit installed while the zed is at the workshop as it saves me the hassle of dropping it off again & is much easier to do now when the engine will be coming out to fix the front sump leak The reason i wanted the low profile mounts was because if i ever do go ahead with my TT build, i wont have to worry about the engine mounts as it would be a waste to buy the normal mounts now only to have to upgrade yet again. Plus it works out better to get it from Coz as part of my order that ill be putting through with him this week.
Sounds like you have it all figured out. That extra $200 that you're going to spend on engine mounts that you don't need (even with the TT conversion) would be better spent on knock sensor and sub-harness. But do it your way lol
I am only going by what my mechanic told me. I am more than happy to spend the $200 on brand new det sensor & harness but i was told not to by my mechanic. If you can tell me why soldering the wiring directly onto the det sensor & getting rid of all the plugs, isnt a good option, feel free to say so as you would know more than me & im more than happy to get a second opinion
Ally ones with urethane damper -you need low profile if you're going big tube style inlets. Bolt on type 2.5" inlets should fit with regular mounts, my MSP ones do anyway.
Rob i guess you got nothing helpful to say about why its better to get brand new knock sensor & sub harness instead of doing the soldering method my mechanic told me about?
Not really -I posted the best advice I can give you in my first response. Up to you to take it or leave it dude. I don't have the time to argue the point with you.
I dunno what part you think was considered as arguing lol was just asking why its not a good idea as you know a lot more about it than me...was just after an explanation haha
Because the sensor is virtually inaccessible unless the gearbox is removed. What your mechanic has proposed (soldering new wires directly to the pins of the sensor) is impossible without removing the sensor, does nothing to achieve replacement of the sensor itself, and will cost you more in labour than simply replacing the sub harness with the correct part. I can't fathom why anyone familiar with a 300zx would replace perfectly good, perfectly accessible water temperature sensors as "preventative maintenance" but take such a half arsed approach with the knock sensor.
As i said earlier, i was only going by what my mechanic had told me. But thanks for the explanation, i shall get a new det sensor & sub harness.
The downside of a soldered joint is that the solder wicks up the wire. Where the solder stops on the wire becomes a focus point for any movement in the wire. If the wire is subject to vibration then eventually the wire will work harden and snap at this point. When solder joints are used the wire should be secured after the solder to prevent movement at the solder. Solder joints should only be used where you can prevent movement at the joint. A typical crimp joint creates a larger focus point for the vibration and usually will incorporate a method of securing the wire after the joint so it is less likely to fail from vibration.
