My TT work-in-progress thread

Ok guys week before Armidale Zedfest i bought a 2+0 Manual TT to do a complete conversion on my Aus-spec n/a. So in this thread im just going to be posting up all my problems/progress as i go a long.

So far under the bonnet things where ugly. Boost leaks everywhere, un-capped vacum ports,had to do a 3-point turn in my street out the front and power steering hose blew and oil pissed out everywhere, so things are ugly.

It's now sat in the garage for a month as im busy between work and uni so it gives me little time to do anything at the moment.
Yesterday i did a boost leak test and i couldn't even get the gauge past 1psi, found 6 or 7 leaks in total after blocking them off it now hold pressure through-out the intake system.
After blocking off all leaks my idle dropped from 1800rpm to 1000rpm, so i was really happy with that.

My first problem is that the car won't run with the AFM connected, if it is connected you constantly have to jab at the throttle to keep it going. With it disconnected it runs fine..obviously limited to 2500rpm.

So i thought that its obviously a screwed AFM sending all sorts of signals to the ECU so this afternoon i removed the afm and pod from the TT and put it on my n/a... hoping the car wouldn't start so i know for sure it's the AFM.

But it did and ran perfectly fine, so obviously it's not the AFM itself... tomorrow i will try the AFM from my n/a on the TT pretty sure it won't do anything but i may as well try.

So after a long post my first problem is that the car won't run as it should with AFM connected, any suggestions on what i could try?

Thanks Matt.

 

Sunday's update

Well i put the afm on from my n/a on the TT today and it work it ran fine, played around with the wire's on the connector and it started running rough but then came good again.
So im putting it down to a dodgy afm connector.

Adjusted TPS to 0.44v from 0.31, again a slight improvement in idle but it all counts.
When i disconnected the TPS so the ECU can reset TPS voltage i noticed puffs of black smoke coming up from drivers turbo as the idle fluctuated between 500-1000rpm for that 10 seconds that it was disconnected.

Otherwise there is no smoke out the exhaust or turbo at any other time, only thing i can think of causing this is that the car has sat stationary for almost 2 years and the seals have gone dry, also the oil seems a bit to thin.
Also found a slight amount of oil in the FMIC certainly fresh from the few times i have started it, only a few ml of oil. I will have to put up pics to explain.
What are people thoughts on reasons for the drivers side turbo burning oil and blowing a bit of black smoke?

 

Black is likely fuel, oil is purple. If it sat for 2yrs has the old fuel been used up yet? and have you changed the fuel filter? running rich? checked the o2's? all things fuel related. Also check for error codes mate.

 

Sorry i meant blue, deffinatley puffing blue smoke on drivers turbo only for first few seconds on a cold start-up.

Actually yes it does seem to smell quite a bit of unburnt fuel, but i only have the front pipes on it so no cats. Having problems with datascan keep getting "invalid port" when i try to connect.

 

Well it's gone from fuel leaks, major boost leaks and not holding idling to running pretty close to perfect. Only problem im having now it sometime struggles to start; ie crank for a few seconds won't start try again and will eventually start.
It starts easier with the throttle open rather than closed.
Once it has been started and run for at least 30 seconds, it will crank over first go no problems. Im thinking it might be the IAA unit probaly a bit sticky, also sometimes idle gets stuck at around 1500rpm but a quick stab at the throttle idle comes back down to 900rpm.

Ah it's all fun Mike, 3 more weeks then im on holidays from uni got alot of things to do, wish i could just rip into it now but i just don't have the time.

 

Uni is over and on holidays, meaning i can play around with the TT. Put the exhaust back on so it's not just running straight out of the dumps each time i start it.

Another thing is that the oil pressure gauge is always on 0 whenever i start it, until today I went up the street for a quick spin went to about 5000rpm in first and the oil pressure gauge came up, but soon as i slowed down back to idle, gauge goes back to 0.
Anyway to clean the oil pressure sender? Soak it in petrol or poke at it with a needle?

Ill make sure to throw up some pics of it tomorrow.

 

Few pics....not bad for $2500 everything i need to do my TT conversion, I think it would be much easier to buy a running wreck as you have everything you need, rather than buy each part individually.



This is a pic of the oil i found in the FMIC only a small amount, anything i should be worried about? Drivers turbo blew a bit of smoke on the very first start up, and the first time it boosted when i took it for a quick spin.
Since then its been fine, no smoke what so ever.



Also the nastly MBC or whatever it is, causing bad vaccum leaks. Looks like is went down to each wastegate actuator, so i pulled it out and blocked it off.
Plans are to pull the plennum on Monday, work on it all week and have it back together by Friday or Saturday the latest and then do a comp test on the motor.

 

Hard starting.
I would think a set of plugs is in order.

 

Was due to vaccum leaks, but yes new set of plugs will go in when i pull the plennum.

 

I would do the compression test before spending all week doing other things. If the comp is low, no point in plenum pulls etc.

 

Yes but things are quite messy under the boonet, im confident that the motor is fine, just going to do a compression test to know how good or not so good it is.

 

What wreck? I only see a TT missing it's front bar!

 

And a midnight blue 2 seater TT at that

 

It's a

registered wreck.

 

u got that z for 2.5k?

 

No it's not a wreck Karl just a damaged front guard, but another gaurd dent free came with the sale of the car and brand new split dumps. Had the front bar, but it was hacked up.

You gotta love Ebay, the guy had 2 zeds, his other zed was an immaculate standard 2 seater TT, even better than my Aus-spec. Got it cheap as he was getting married.
The zed i bought of him had nicer 18" wheels, twin stainless 3" exhaust, Tein coilovers but all those good bit's went to his TT only thing he left was the plazmaman FMIC.

Engine supposedly had a bottom end rebuild 70 000km's ago and rebuilt turbos, not sure of full details as i never got any paperwork or receipts. (all the work was done prior to him pruchasing the car).
Was tuned and dynoed at UAS about 5 years ago 245rwkw at 12psi, again not 100% sure and im not too worried as i only paid $2500

But as it had a whole lot of other good things like teins, plazmaman, twin 3" exhaust i'm starting to think if you would for-go forged pistons. Guess ill never know till I open it up.

 

Fuel Rail Mod?

Hey guys going to be getting the injectors proffesionally cleaned and flow tested can anyone recommend a place they have used in Sydney for this service?

Also is it worth while modifying the rail to a twin-in and twin-out so cylinder 6 isn't the last one on the fuel rail?

Thanks, Matt

 

Plennum Pulled.

Plennum came off today, had it done it around 2 hours or so.....hardest part is getting the injector connectors off, damn i hate those connectors with those circlips or what ever they are. Scrapped the shit out of my knuckles while getting impatient.
Tried to label things as i was disconnecting but no tags would stick due to the dirt so i thought stuff it, coil packs and injectors plugs pretty much line up spot on and i didn't really disconnect anything else.
Once the plennum was off I had enough for the day, covered the lower plennum and dropped the garage door.



Things where quite dirty, most of the connectors were brittle and cracked.. all 6 injector connectors where covered in green corosion...im suprised how the car has managed to run pretty good on all 6 cyclinders with electrical contacts in such a poor condition.



EGR has been removed but vacum lines and the EGR solenoid was left in place Not sure why but it was.
The plennum had deffinatley been removed before as the original under plennum water hoses had been replaced with supercheap efi hose and worm drive clamps. I could hear the hoses crunch as i snapped them off with long nose pliers so deffinatley don't use cheap hoses, I think it was more the high engine bay temps that made them so brittle.

 

Oh yummy, looks like you've got some dead set cleaning coming up. Those terminals are really bad.

As for the water bypass hoses, i cant recall who stated it first, but agree'd! Use high quality hoses where you can.

Looks the goods so far. And so jealous of the cheap zed buy... =(

Keep up the good work!