Z32 Moose street car v2

Discussion in 'Member's Garage' started by Moose Train, Apr 14, 2020.

  1. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    Wow time really does get away from you. Incoming giant update.
     
  2. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    On pulling the injectors due to a suspected leak I found the seals to be in a dire state
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    On closer inspection the large oil leak on the front of the engine was coming from all the cam seals.
    [​IMG]

    The coolant bypass hose outlooks are also looking worse for wear..
     
  4. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    [​IMG]

    Removed all the smoo and cleaned all the surfaces. Also remove the lower plenum to do the knock sensor.
     
  5. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    All back together.
    also not pictured was a PCV delete and valve cover resell.
    I actually replaced the lower plenum due to the threads being awol. In a previous plenum pull they were starting to strip despite use of a torque wrench. I wonder if there’s a limit on the use of aluminium threads? Also poses the question how many times this plenum has been off.
    [​IMG]
     
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  6. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    Installed the ARP idler
    studs
    [​IMG]
     
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  7. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    All back together. Learnt a large amount during this process.
    [​IMG]
     
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  8. Harts

    Harts Active Member

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    Nice work @Moose Train , looks like a good amount of effort put in there!
     
  9. beaver

    beaver southern zeds

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    Any owner who undertakes this kind of complex engine work on a vg, deserves respect, well done moose train!:cool:
     
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  10. Harts

    Harts Active Member

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    Agreed!
     
  11. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    On to the next problem. As previously mentioned the injector seals were in poor condition. I couldnt find any off the shelf options and online mentioned many people have problems;
    I decided to just replace them with Nismo 740ccs. I bought a second hand rail from a RB25 with them already installed. I had them cleaned via RGS then used Z1 conversion kit.
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    While the car was apart I had noticed the engine mount had completely fallen about.
    The engine was sitting at about 30 degree angle to the left.
    I later found out this was causing a boost leak.
    After sourcing 2x oem engine mounts from Rob. I undertook the fun journey on in car engine mount replacement.

    There wasn't a really clear how to guide on line so i kinda pieced together.
    - Jack up car as high as possible.
    - Secure engine. I used a crane to lift the engine a few cm, also put a jack under the trans for peace of mind.
    - remove power steering rack mounts (great time to change these bushes)
    - unbolt steering shaft
    - remove all suspension arms connected to the front subframe
    - remove 4x subframe bolts and unbolt engine mounts
    - The subframe should come down 20cm, the power steering lines are still connected so be sure to support the frame.
    - Removing the top nut from the engine mount was probably top 3 worst jobs on a 300. If you have GT2860RS with stock heatshield in place, passenger is not accessible at all. Luckily my driver one was the issue. I will change the passenger shortly when I next have the engine out.

    Photos of activities; make sure to consume bulk beer

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    Somewhere during this I thought it would be a quick job to change my wheel bearing while the car was on stands.
    Bearing was completely toast. It actually was completed seized on the hub. [​IMG]
     
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  14. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    On changing the hub there is a large nut which secures it to the knuckle. For the life of me I could not break it loose on the car. Despite using a cheater bar.

    I am not a mechanic clearly but I used the most back yard solution. Bolted it to a piece of timber, heated it up and used a impact to loosen it, then a breaker bar with the jack handle on it. And it worked.
    [​IMG]
     
  15. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    Also found another photo of the engine mount activities. This was at 11pm in pouring rain. I wish I had an garage...
    [​IMG]
     
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  16. Harts

    Harts Active Member

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    That last photo, pure commitment mate!
     
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  17. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    Still grinding on this thing.
    Had the car back together.
    Installed a LINK ecu and tried to get it started.
    Followed the guide and couldn't even get it to turn over.
    • Confirmed fuel pump was priming
    • Timing was correct
    • Injector specs were in.
    • Firing order was correct
    I have missed a setting I believe.

    I put my nistune back in and fired up instantly. Hmm.
    Decided to keep the nistune in for the moment so I can actually move the car.
    Retuned the nistune to 740cc, weirdly ran well with the 540cc tune.

    Currently chasing down some vaccum leaks. I have a leak on the drive side down the left can't seem to find it.
     
  18. Moose Train

    Moose Train Member

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    [​IMG]
    Currently stalling out after throttle. Thinking of bringing the smoke tester home from work as the next fix.
     
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