hey guys quick question i have heard of alot of problems with the circulation of oil through the vg30 and now mine is playing up it has oil in it soo im geussing my pump is going is there a difference with the tt pump and the na pump how hard is it to replace this part btw ?????
mate, if your going by your factory oil pressure gauge in the dash. you will more then likely find out that it is just a bad sender. and your oil pressure is fine. get yourself a good aftermarket gauge and check with that before you start stressing.
i thought that myself but the motor is very tapety and the gauge works when it is cold but then i have 0 or just above presure
TT and NA pumps are different. I replaced mine quite recently.. Not a fun job I can assure you. If you need to do a 100k service now would be the perfect opportunity to do so. You'll need to drop the cross member while supporting the engine to remove the sump. I used one of these to do so: Then the timing belt needs to come off, as well as the crank sprocket. Then its a matter of unbolting the old pump and on with the new. Be careful you have got the positioning just right with the new pump, don't force it on or you'll damage the crank seal. Buy a spare JIC. Set aside a weekend and make sure you allow plenty of time for the RTV on the sump to cure before adding oil and running the engine (this caught me out the first time) Goodluck! -Martin :zlove:
:O ummm ok :| well im gonna leave that one to the profesionals looks like i'm gonna do the 100k and have that replaced aswell how much roughly would something like that set me back
At a guess, at least $1500+? Hook up a different pressure gauge to make sure its not the sender first.
thank you ppl for all the help now im off to do what every other zed owner does best spend some money
I'll re-iterate what others have said. If you are basing your assumption of a buggered pump on the readings through the stock factory gauge, then please rig up another proper working gauge before proceeding with replacing pumps etc. Might save you lots of dollars as the factory oil pressure unit works only when cold when it begins to go faulty (aka blocked). From memory the new sender is about $250 and takes only 5 minutes to replace. You can order the part from Coz (conceptZ).
as i said before the motor is getting very tapety and worryingly loud i need to do the 100k change any way i might aswell spend a lil extra on the zed seeing on how i drive it :br: any way but i will obviously check if it is the gauge soo i can have that changed aswell
the tapping noise you are describing is most likely a stuffed and or stuck lifter. A common problem it would seem and if you run a search there a are few ways to remedy this before going and buying new lifters. (engine flush and some sort of diesel concoction) As for the oil pressure. take the sender off and use a straightened out paper clip to clean out the internals of the sender. Mine was full of crap and was reading zero after warm up. Works like a brand newie now. Good luck
Under the car about a metre in from the front passenger wheel. It is known as an Oil Pressure Sender (OPS). Have a look in the tech section as there is an article on replacing the stock zed OPS for an after market type, but if you are replacing with another stock zed unit is even simpler. From memory, basic instructions are - jack up car, put stands etc under for safety before going under car, locate OPS, unscrew old OPS, screw in new OPS, lower car. Done! Literally a 5-10 minute job once you have the replacement part. To see the tech article, click on "Tech Section" above (in white text in the blue header band), type OPS into the search box and click Search. The article you are looking for is named "Changing your Oil Pressure Sender Unit (OPS)". Or you can click on the link!
yeah i have read about running diesel oil to flush your motor seems a lil out there but worth a go do you know how long you leave it in for???? its my day off today soo i might try and clean out the ops today
In my experience, cleaning out the OPS (even re-drilling it) makes excellent difference for about an hour then it goes back to it's faulty former self. Only way to get it working again properly is to replace it with another one (either stock or aftermarket). I don't have any experience about the engine flushing bit, so I'll leave that to one of the forum gurus. But the engine noise and the dead OPS are likely 2 seperate issues. Faulty OPS is very common.
