Locked diff

This for sure - related to HICAS delete components or toe ball joints movement - you don't need much for it to take place!

Check with a big fat lever - if you can see it move even slightly - that's the problem for sure!

Had it happen to me once when the mechanics replaced to the toe arms and left movement freeplay - its scary and dangerous

 

Simple solution Kenny, come and buy "Beyonce" , at least the tyres will get more than 20,000k's

 

I would be looking at rear wheel alignment and tyre pressures. If the diff was locked it would be fairly evident as per earlier posts.

 

Haha scotty I think BEYONCÉ would be one too many ladies for me, the mrs already complains that I spend too much time working on sweet karisma . I do want want the wheels on Beyoncé though

 

I'll check everything this weekend and I want to change the diff bushes anyway they look worn and get new rear tyres.

 

:rofl: No worries Kenny i'll sell you the wheels for $8,500 and you can have the car for free :rofl:

 

A couple of guys have mentioned rear alignment but you have made no comment on that subject. Have you had an alignment done ruling this out as a cause? I had your symptoms of excessive rear tyre wear across the whole tyre, ruling out excessive camber. Had a 4 wheel alignment done, and rear toe-in was waaaaay out. Rear tyres lasted a lot longer after that.

 

I have had rear wheel alignment done in the past, which fixed it somewhat but not completely and the whole tyres are wearing like you mentioned so I don't believe camber is an issue. I need to get new tyres that have really good traction instead of the cheap one i opted for and get a wheel alignment redone maybe that might help.

 

Haha oh when you put it that way it sounds like a bargain

 

I was getting 20K or less out of rear tyres. That was due to camber and mountain runs though...

 

while checking my whole suspension again and checking if everything was tight, which it was. i did the check the wheel sway test( where you position your hands at 12 and 6 on the wheel and wiggle to see/feel for any movement and also at 3 and 9).

There was slight movement at 12 and 6 and i had a further look and found that the upper control arm was moving slightly. I checked the bolts and nuts and they were FT so the movement i saw/felt seems like its coming from this


I think it might be because of this camber bolt that was on the stock upper control arm to adjust the camber. I am going to try a normal bolt to see if that makes any difference/fixes but i am not optimistic.


what do you guys think?

Getting close to my last option of diagnosis- dump it at a suspension shop and let someone else do it

 

No! Normal bolt will not work. It's a slotted hole so it will move about. You have to use the camber bolt with the eccentric washers, make sure you have the other washer on the right way too. Is the rose joint flogged out? They do wear out a lot quicker than bushes.

 

Yeah, are they replaceable or fix for them?

 

You can replace the rod end, although swapping the rose joint for a bushed end would be better since it's a road car. Rose joints are accurate and look cool, but they aren't good for reliability, so need to be replaced much more frequently. Still, that little amount of movement shouldn't be causing your tyres to wear super fast.

http://www.mcdonaldbrosracing.com.au/rods.html