Hey all, Well Jericho is alive and i'm happy as hell. She sounds nice and smooth and has great oil pressure (3/4 on the oil pressure gauge). But she is still on the jack stands as I have a leaking coolant banjo fitting on the drivers side turbo. I have replaced the crush washers with new ones to try and stop the leak but no luck. Looks like the washers just aren't sealing. Anyway big thanks to Niall (rollin) who did my motor and to Al (ztoy) for helping me get the motor back in. Once the leak is fixed and the motor has been heat tested jericho will leave her cave and come home. Thanks, Marc
Excellent news, Truth is i'm probably more relieved than you are. haha what to do with that coolant leak though...
Yea I'm going to try a different set of crush washers (not ones from the gasket set) and see how it goes. I don't believe I have any cracked housings etc it just looks like I'm not getting a decent seal between the banjo fitting and the washers. More relieved than me! Thats a great vote of confidence in your work lol.
That's great Marc! Look forward to seeing that beautiful machine back on the road again. Make sure it's got all its bugs fixed for the SEQ drive-in movie night on the queens birthday weekend in a couple of weeks. (check coming events). I'll be having a good chat to you about your pretty new snails too
between my 2 jobs i do 12 to 15 engines a year, and every time im paranoid untill its started. Ive never had one fall over so i guess i should be more confident. lol So i take it the miss is gone? or have you not had it running long enough?
Nah haven't had it running long enough yet but from initial small runs it's had it's looking promising. It's idling @ around 1,500rpm as I need to adjust it but when it was @ 1,500rpm it would miss quite noticeably.
If these other copper washers I have don't work, could I use Nylon ones instead? These will be sealing the water feed to the turbo so the Nylon will come in contact with the core of the turbo. Will they stand up to the heat?
No, nylon will not work. Banjo fittings have to be super tight ... crank 'em up with the biggest breaker bar you can find.
Sounds like a great way to break a banjo bolt! They're a hollowed out bolt with a hole drilled through the side, so they are inherently weak. I recommend sticking with the torque setting from the manual 11-14 foot pounds. If you need to re-use the copper washers then they will need annealing.
he's got brand new washers from a genuine kit. i dont know why they arent sealing. I hope this doesnt insult you marc but are you sure you have a washer on both sides? sometimes it can look like there is a washer stuck on the banjo
Yea I have them on both sides and it leaks from both sides :/ And I'm not worried about torquing the bolt. I'm more worried about blowing out the casting the bolt goes into...
i feel your pain. i had 2 replace the crush washers on one of my turbos. with the engine in.. my poor old hands got mangled!
Heh I know, I've already done it. The 1st set leaked, so I put another set in....tomorrow I'm going to try some washers from a different kit. Thankfully ratchet spanners make the job a little easier.
Well some good news and some bad news. Good news, I fixed the leaks (I say leaks cause the turbo on the passenger side decided to leak). I stopped being a panzy and tightened the crap out of them. 1st bit of bad news, I can't get her home and I can't dis-engage the clutch. I've got it adjusted all the out and have done a quick bleed of the clutch line. Still no go!! So I'm going to try a bleed again but I'm stuck. And the worst bit of news.................................IT STILL ****ING MISFIRES!!!!@!! I've replaced everything I can't think of, I've lost, I'm done, I give up.
Woohoo. Good to hear its alive. Not so good to hear that the clutch doesnt disengage mostly because I installed the clutch. Mine wouldnt disengage when I reinstalled my engine as well. It took heaps of bleeding to get it right. There may still be air in the Master cylinder as we took it off to fit the engine. Get someone to press on the clutch while you are under the car and see if the slave cylinder is moving. If you haven't already tried it Im happy to come up and swap ECU's to see if that fixes you misfire. With your new loom and sensors you have it would be the next place I would look.
Ohh man, what haven't I done. Here we go: Changed S1 PTU to S2 New Injectors New ECU New Idle Control Valve New Spark Plugs Swapped Cold Start Swapped Coil Packs (swapped them 1 by 1) Swapped TPS Swapped AFM Swapped CAS Fuel Pressure is fine (40psi) Bypass of the Fuel Pump Controller didn't make a difference New Fuel Filter Cleaned Air Filters Had FPR and dampener swapped Fixed LOTS of air leaks Engine Rebuild New Engine Harness Can't think of too much else atm.
