ok so I went out this morning after leaving the battery off all night. checked codes. got 55. beautiful. tried cranking. nothing checked codes again still 55 awesome. here's a video of whats happening...theres no sound of any firing at all http://s1195.photobucket.com/albums/...ile Uploads/ Also here is a clip in question. this is one the body loom in engine bay and was connected when the automatic alternator loom came out unfortunately now with the manual loom in this is the clip and it wont match up as mentioned the old one is a 6 pin and the new an 8 pin any ideas what it is? all the manual says is that it goes into the body loom and that there is a difference in auto/mt...well i know that much myself? any one know if it needs to be worried about? here is a picture of the fuel system. just in case i got anything wrong. I checked all the coil pack the wires seem to be in the right position. have not got the multi meter on them yet though. I may need to check the ptu system tomorrow tripple check i got it right. and is there any way to check that I got the timing belt all lined up correctly? or should it still try and fire at least a little bit?
the fuel pump is a noisy bugger hear it when priming and plenty of pressure in the line will nick out and check CAS
Cas is connected. Yeh was thinking that I might demolish the covers and then get some new ones and do the mod so that you don't have to pull all the acc off everytime
If you pull a plug/coilpack and earth it on the plenum - do you have spark? at the same time you should be able to see if there is any fuel vapour coming out of the empty plug hole. With regards to the loom - it shouldn't be stopping it from running. That loom carries the speed sensor/reverse light/neutral swith - and in the auto also the starter inhibitor (to stop it from starting in Drive/Reverse)This stops the starter from turning it over so you have obviously sorted that out in the LH front guard. Have a look at this tech article - as it has a few details on converting the loom: 3ZC tech article Hope this helps.....
If u turn it by hand, do u hear the injectors clicking one by one? If not, check cas plug or replace cas unit as mentioned previously. Also check the teeth inside the cas and check the teeth on the end of the cam where it meets the cas. Is there still a locator pin on the end of the cam? If not, is the cas located correctly? Checked all your fuses? Tried another series 2 PTU? If not, may as well try another one as if the first one was fried due to no earth, its gone for good... Sure the earths at the back of the plenum are connected? Check ECU and make sure plug in in properly and hasn't bowed/banana'd out. Try another ECU. - Make sure the battery is disconnected when u plug it in. Defo have enough fuel? - Sounds silly but I had a car sitting for a while and about 1/8th of a tank evaporated. :/ Check to make sure the return line and feed line (fuel) are around the right way. (Where they come up from underneath the bay) If looking from top of engine bay from passenger side gaurd, right side hard line goes to filter, left to return. Also as mentioned above, get someone to crank the engine whilst holding the coilpack close to the plenum with the rubber insulator at the plug end removed. Should be able to see if there is spark earthing out on the plenum. Good luck!
Thanks for the link i will check later for spark when a mate comes over and the battery is charged again. I pulled out spark one theres definetly fuel getting in also turned crank to get piston one at top and my marks on the cams are only a couple of teeth out so am i in the clear to say it shouldnt be my timing? Jamie I hate to be noob but do I crank it by hand while the battery is connected to hear the clicking? as I tried disconnected and got nothing In regards to the ptu I wired it up ages ago and the put it in when the engine went in It never had any power until the other day and i've just tripple checked the wiring and all looks good so I don't think it would have blown. tripple checked fuel lines and theyre in the right spot. also theres enough petrol
check all plugs with the ptu... i had a similar thing and it stumped us all, a rubber seal in the plug had fallen inside the plug thus it clipped in but it didnt make a connection
I take it you have just done a auto to manual conversion, have you sorted out the wiring for it, as you need to sort the neutral switch out other wise the car is going to refuse to start no matter what persuasion you try to give it. Also, unless your timing belt has been changed recently and you suspect the belt wasn't put on correctly (im wondering why you are a bit concerned about the timing belt at the present moment, that should of been double checked before putting the engine anywhere near the engine bay), there should be no need to take the cam belt covers off to do the timing, though if set up correctly at the belt would not stop the car from starting. you would need a timing light to check the timing on the lower crank sprocket unless you have an unorthodox one with no timing marks on it. First port of call would be making sure all the correct wiring is done for the Auto to manual conversion. if you haven't done the correct bit of wiring with the neutral switch then your going to struggle.
Going to knock the wiring on the head tomorrow did some more reading on it tonight thanks for the heads up. I did the timing belt and it is a Udp with no markings but I checked my Tdc and markings on cam to double check
Actually sorry in relation to that I Bridged the switch in the guard liner so it will start regardless of clutch in or not just need to do the lights and speed sensor
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z282/cd_ny/300zx/transharness.jpg This is a betterpicture of the connector I'm worried about number 3 on the manual loom is larger than the auto harness
