dumps and manis all done, especially love the dumps rob. ease of attachment was great. not sure if they'll slot into engine bay while attached. may need to take off and refit once engine is in. will be doing this later today actually.
Those dumps look like they have a nice tuned length You might be able to get the passengers side in with some wiggling around but the drivers side will have to be fitted in place I would think How good are the ceramic coatings these days........ Can you like touch the exhaust without getting a burn when its operating?
Damn - Thought it might be rather wishful and hopeful Ceramics an excellent insulator but I guess it has to be thin enough as well in coating so its doesn't crack (since ceramic doesn't like expansion/ vibration) I like the idea of ceramic coating the dumps - they would have to knock a lot of the heat off still JC
Clocking seems to be the suggestion in many places? Seems that once I grind the outlet flange - it will still be so close that it still might be a problem. Looking for other options now - including actuators to fit (I could not find any on GCG), so I'm revisiting all options first including clocking/ brackets/ grinding other parts But here is my problems with clocking. 1. Wouldn't the outlet housing be in a different position/angle ????(F....me ....don't say YES!) 2. Garrett is claiming firmly that you must maintain the housing angles due to the cooling system outlet/ inlet height requirements/angles as apparently you can burn the retainers (melt them on the offside) and the ends of the shafts by clocking (less than only +-15 degrees perpendicular - they display pictures of damaged parts caused by doing this). 3. Garrett is claiming firmly that offsetting the arms makes the actuator arm angle different to the other from the difference in radial arc which can occur when clocking. Must be firm at 90 degrees they claim. They claim this could do serious damage and create serious chatter and flutter as a result. This one makes sense to me! Clocking seems to be common but I am trying to keep them in line for these claims by Garret etc - almost there - its just tight Might get some pics up but because I am running out of feasible / viable options and am getting a little desperate now. I will go down and see OZ Boost today and pick their brains - with some luck they can drop in and see the problem. They seem to be guru's on this stuff Sorry - I just can't see how clocking can work and need to put this behind me unless someone can explain further how it's done and whether these claims by Garrett etc. can be overcome?? Cheers JC :zlove:
CALL GCG or UAS and ask if there is/what is the difference between off the shelf and Z32 kit with the actuator/brackets .
Yes it will, sorry. The cooling outlets don't change... it's only the intake side that gets rotated. As for heat, since the turbos are bigger, the heatshields will be closer to the intake housing, not to mention you need to cut them which makes them less effective. Hence I just got rid of the shields all together and went for ceramic coating inside and out for the manis. Obviously you can't touch it after the car's been running, you can't do that with heat shields either! The clearance this gains makes up for it. this video convinced me to do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcFZ0BLv-9M I had to reclocked both my turbos as when they arrived as the passenger side outlet was too close to the manifold and ash specs couldn't bolt on either. Drivers side was even worse, shaft despite having a bend in it kept hitting the oil filtre tree. Didn't have to rotate much, within the 15 degree tolerance. In your case if you need to rotate more than that, you may just need to find a more suitable actuator mount instead.
I cannot see anything fitting given it's so close (including a specific kit unless the actuator is significantly smaller- but its not a bad idea as there's nothing to lose. Don't know why I thought the centre housing would rotate - having a real blonde moment there! :rofl: That's solves a lot but would like to keep the outlet in the same position otherwise the piping will be deflected as a result Ceramic coating is a good move but not possible at this moment - Can I ask what it cost to do the mani's and the piping - shame you couldn't get the turbo exhaust housing done - that would have been ideal. What did you end up doing with it being so close to the oil tree Mike? (This is my main problem) I heard someone say that the stock oil tree may interfere with the actuator arm - wondering if this implies there's an aftermarket oil tree (I cannot imagine a sandwich plate making any difference) - I am assuming you just did anything you could to get it off - like adjust brackets/ arms etc. My actuator arm is about 1mm off the oil tree and the bracket is at its limits Cheers JC
Went to a local bloke who charged me $100 per item. So $400 all up for manis and dumps. There's a reason I didn't do the turbo exhaust housing. After speaking to him he said this traps too much heat in the turbo and will kill bearings and seals real quick. That's the only part you'd leave as is. Used stock tree, didn't need to shave it down after clocking the turbo but my kit did have a bent actuator shaft to begin with.
Cheers...wish it was a local service here Being water-cooled turbo's I was under the impression that external heat soak/ heat radiation and heat conduction was the bigger problem here? That's an interesting response....... I know - but I have had a whole lot of previous trouble with the turbo outlet pipe seals on high boost that I have to keep it in the stock location to maintain the correct pipe angles (I'll use t-bolt clamps this time) Lost too much time, money and skin from these babies - I'll fix it once and for all - lol Hence no rotation of the outlet housing is an option here for me - one of my worst experiences on a z is dealing with these leaking air at high boost due to shitty stock clamps and no room at all once their in! Been fiddling around taking everything to their limits I'll set the adjustment arms tonight and look for clearance tomorrow - worst comes to worst - I'll straighten the arm 1mm more (about 3mm off the bracket) that should give me 2mm clearance both sides - I'm getting confident that I can do it and will confirm to make sure anyway The problem is not brackets or arms but rather where to put this actuator and what you have to grind down, in order to do it without overclocking. The actuator has to be placed into the correct position first and then the brackets and the arms adjusted to suit I'm almost there now with perhaps enough clearance and a lot of dickin around but confident now I'm on the home stretch :zlove: Cheers all...appreciate the feedback JC
I've been running ceramic coated exhaust housings for 6 years and still going strong. The bearings live inside the CHRA, not the exhaust housing so I find it strange this guy came up with that conclusion. I've also had ceramic coated dumps and manis with no shields for that time also and no surrounding items have been baked, cooked or peeled.
Many people have held the same view on 'turbo beanies' saying they trap heat in once the engine is off and start coking the oil in the bearings, probably a holdover from old oil cooled journal units.
Mine are open at the top so there can't be too much heat retention in them after stopping. I used manifold sox and gold heat thermal tape on the charge pipes - so it won't be too hot down there anyway to begin with
Interesting thing about the newer turbo cars like my Renault RS Sport 265 is there is a water pump attached to the turbo coolant pipes and after the car is turned off. You can hear the pump working, continuing to pump water through the turbo until it is cool enough to stop the oil coking up. Jenny's Peugeot 205 GTI has the same system..... Way better than a turbo timer which IMO suck.........
