So turns out the VH came with 2 kinds of power steering pumps. The active suspension P/S pump (big one) and the IRS P/S pump (small one). Small one is nearly identical to the SR20DET P/S pump and bolts right up to the VH brackets. My active suspension P/S pump, not enough clearance with the frame rails: Engine+gearbox is back in the zed, ready to get towed down to Aidan's house to finish it up... (photos from earlier on in the day, no gearbox) Turns out my 56mm triple core eBay radiator is too thick and will have no room for a thermofan Only 22mm clearance from the pulley! Anyone know how thick stock TT rads are? 14"-16" thermofans are at least 62mm thick :/ Brand new unused eBay rad for sale or swap! $200
I had to put my thermo fan on the front, and I had 50mm clearance between rad and crank sprocket (42mm PWR) And do you have your swaybar in? I think that will hit your pump...
Nope, will have to get a custom swaybar, that thing will hit every accessory with the engine in So thermo as a puller... that's less effective right? If I had to do this what do I do about the aircon condenser?
nope, doesn't clear... I'm going to do a quick hackjob for the bonnet just so I can make it for the cruise while I get a proper one made up. I'm gonna cut a hole, cut some pieces out of polycarbonate & sikaflex them to the bonnet & reinforce with some fibreglass cloth... then wrap the bonnet with a carbon fibre vinyl wrap or something
Also just came back from a place called "Couplers" in Malaga, they have 43mm O/D steam pipes elbows & T-pipes, pretty thick... just wanna make sure, I can weld steam pipe to my steel flanges yeah? (what kind of metal is steam pipe??)
wont the polycarbonate just melt...? then youll have a big hole in the bonnet, and our engine will be covered in melted plastic gunk....yay!
I think the wheels themselves look good, but stick out a touch too far, it goes from aggressive offset to just looking like they are the wrong wheels for the car.
hmm thought polycarbonate would have a pretty high melting point... actually just checked and it's 267°C, I sure hope my under bonnet temps don't get that high I'm open to suggestions for materials to use
that may be its melting point, but it may well warp or deform before that point. either way plastic for a bonnet just seems bad. cut a "flap into the factory bonnet (big u shape) , then bend it so it clears. then take the whole bonnet to a body builder/fibreglasser, aluminium welder, and get them to add the 3 "sides" you need to get the bulge. thats what i would be doing. it actually looks like your engine is reasonably close to fitting, so maybe you wont need a bulge as big as chrispys.
I am gonna get the bulge done at Beyond Custom properly but I was just thinking of a quick hackjob so I can drive it for the cruise. The engine will sit higher, so will still need a reasonable bulge to clear the manifold and also the thermostat housing...
What are you doing about the air con pump and alternator I can fit the alternator in mine but there's no space for the air con pump
No A/C or P/S for now, just wanna get it running first I'll have to look through some NICO threads again, pretty sure there is someone on there who has A/C in his Z32
welding steam pipe to your m/s flanges will be fine. just recommend getting them faced once welded fully. what shape ex ports does the vh have?
Ok sweet... the exhaust ports are oval shaped so do I need to bash the steam pipes into the right shape?
also is the oil pickup ally or steel piping? I might go pick some up at Blackwoods if they have any...
