Scenario: NA, manual, 2+0 Engine and flywheel swapped out. Same transmission, same clutch. Adjustment already performed: Slave bled, THEN master bled Problem: Engaging the clutch happens very close to the end of pedal travel. I am concerned that with heat there will be insufficient travel and grinding will result. Also, there is very little room to ride the clutch, with the end result being it may not be driveable in traffic. Do I just have to bleed the slave again, or do I adjust the pedal?
If you can pump the clutch pedal several times and you get a decent travel, the clutch needs bleeding. If this doesnt work you have to adjust the clutch pedal, how much adjustment do you have left? One other way round the problem is to install a smaller diameter slave cylinder which has the effect of increasing slave cylinder travel for the same travel of clutch pedal. OR you could just fit a new clutch.
I did lots of pumping when I bled the master. Probably put about half a container of fluid through until I was sure there was no more air coming out. But, like I said, I did the slave first. I don't know how much travel is left on the pedal. The clutch itself is fine.
I've always found the best result is to bleed all point multiple times. So slave, master, slave, master etc. Vacuum bleeder makes it easy.
sounds like you didn't bleed from the headlight bleed point which NAs have. better do it again in this order: slave first, headlight nipple, master cylinder.
You still have air in the slave.... If you have the rest of the system bled, Open the slave bleed port and pull the clutch paddle back so the pin pushes back into the slave and hold it. Then nip up the nipple. There will be air in the slave right near the piston. You have to push that out or it will never bleed properly
I had the same problem after I did my Manual conversion. I Bleed all the points a few times, adjusted and still didn't work, as the pedal was engaging right at the bottom. (I have a one piece line). I then just got an old sway bar link and made my own push-rod for the slave (10mm longer, originally was 69.14mm) and works fine now. I used a Generic s13 Silvia slave cylinder from Repco, which I thought may have been the problem.? I never could work out why it was doing that. But nothing has gone wrong in the last couple of months. I used a Rb30 Exedy Sports tuff Clutch and machined flywheel (if that makes a difference).
This fixed it 100%. Thanks Mike, you were right on the nose. Just needed to bleed the Master and job done. (Starter motor power lead was sitting over the end of the clutch master, so couldn't see the nipple)
