Yup... I really think you're going to get sick of scraping on things man. Not to mention you're going to all this trouble finding a mint NA bar, only to scratch and damage it once you're finished? Not having a dig man, just not seeing the logic behind it.
you guys look at this rake and tell me it doesn't need to be addressed: The front bar will still have 2" of clearance easily.
I love how you make out that 2" is a massive amount of clearance haha. It's your car dude, I'd just hate to see you wreck it on the first bumper/bumpy road that you come across. I think the car looks great how it is...
How on earth could it need moar low? If it gets much lower the front wheels will be poking through the bonnet lol
new arrival quality of workmanship is unfortunately not up to the standard I was hoping for but I guess that's what I get for not wanting to spend money on something that could be replaced by an empty coke can. -A
Ah ok, thanks mate. Searched what you said and found this. Only a few thousand mechanical things to learn left.
cluster**** So it's long overdue that I post about my rewire. I recently finished off the job. As some of you know, I've recently relocated both my fuse and relay boxes to the passenger footwell next to the ECU. All in all I spent more than two months doing this, approximately two days a week. Bear in mind I'd never done this before and was figuring out the method as I went along. Luckily for me I had by buddy along side me for the whole job from start to finish - we were both unemployed, haha. This task became as much his baby as it did mine - I don't even know how parts of it are done because he wouldn't let me "ruin it", lol. this is by far the greatest and most consummate task I have ever attempted on my Z32. No single mod has ever taken so long, been as complicated, required as much on the spot thinking or dedication as this one. few reasons I did this: 1) accessibility - having the boxes in the fender/behind the bumper is a pain 2) reliability - they have potential to get wet there 3) doing things properly - less dodgy than stuffing them where the loom will allow 4) cosmetics - there's a very large collection of wires that runs across the rad support which I was able to remove 5) performance - I had the large relay box under the nose panel, blocking air flow to the radiator 6) space - between the twin intakes, washer reservoir, catch can and power steering reservoir I have very little unused real estate behind my front bar! 7) because the benefits are undeniable compared to the argument against This is how it started, we got up to about 100 different connections cut. Felt really good to reef out all the wiring from across the rad support. all the wires were either pulled back, or extended and pushed through the passes from the fender well to the cabin - so they could reach the passenger footwell. fuse box cut out, ignore my beater clothes haha. modified ECU panel to hold the boxes in their new locations: I set up a negative terminal box next to the ECU in a spare space so I could with ease run all the earths to one place that wouldn't leave me with corroding ring terminal issues. The large red cable pictured goes to the block, box and battery negative. honestly it's probably not necessary; the chassis is more than a sufficient earth, I carried out the task this way for personal (irrational) peace of mind. don't mind the orange cable ties; quick mockup solution. Repurposed: I removed the bracket that holds these two plugs near the rack, modified it and bolted it back on inside the driver's wheel well. the wires now route back through to the cabin via where the AIV's used to be located. the sub looms on the other side of those connectors (going to the components) weren't modified, so replacements are a quick plug and play. the same can not be said for the ABS sensors unfortunately; they were hard wired to the front end loom. The gearbox loom was also hard wired into body loom, fed through reused OEM heat shielding with the starter motor positive wire: The only wiring remaining in the front end is for the headlights, parkers, fogs, afm, horn, indicators washer reservoir and exterior temperature sensor. now that it's not a part of another wraparound loom, the whole section can hang off the car. It was lengthened appropriately to be fed through the fender brace for extra neat points. Done, dusted, finished. Except it's not. Since starting my new job I've been hanging out with some very experienced technicians and learnt a bit about wiring which I wish I knew earlier. the whole rewire was carried out with solder, and I am now unfortunately aware that solder will not be competent long term securer of the connections. over the next few weeks I'll be going through the new loom, cutting out all the solder joints and either de-pinning both ends of the wire to insert a full aftermarket replacement (thus removing the extension) or installing crimps. I have put in a large order for at Motec for their motorsport crimps, sent off for a set of ratchet crimpers as well as a few more supplies. I have a full array of photographs taken with the aim of a how-to write up, however as I have performed the operation with a unreliable technique it's not really worth posting. I'll see how I go redoing it all. fun times. -A
Jesus.....it's impressive work, but god I hope she starts when you put it all back together. I would hate to try and track down an electrical issue with so many sites of modification. OCD at it finest :thumbup:
Interestingly, not many of the relays relate to the motor. Have a look some time - they're mostly headlights, fogs, air con, etc. There is the ignition relay and fuel pump fuse though. I'm leaving the dashboard out 'til the engine's in and running so I can confirm everything's working as it should. When I've finished redoing everything the loom will look like it was always designed to be that way from the factory. Besides, if anything goes wrong I know where every wire for every component is so I'm a step ahead of most people.
you can get away with soldered joints man dont stress. I work on cars 50 and 60 years old with soldered joints and connections
