Hi all, I have recently replaced the auto box in the dwarf which has had the valve bodies modified (wish I'd never bought the thing now but ho humm...) The power warning lamp in the dash flashes 15 times when I start the car and I can only logically deduce it is trying to warn me of something, can anyone tell me what it means ? If anyone out there in Z land has the gearbox removed and replaced without replacing the rear seal whilst doing so is as stupid as me, a recurring small puddle of oil reminds me every day. Thing I find cifficult to swallow is that before the box transfer I had no oil leaks. It is not Auto oil, definately engine oil which means another few hunded bucks to have the whole lot out to replace the seal....I can't see the installer doing it gratis.. The modifications give a really snappy gearchange but has rendered my shift at will (SAW) system all but impossible to use as all the settings are for standard 'oh I might change up a gear in a minute or so' OEM gearboxes. Might sell the SAW system...Oh for a hoist !! one day till then..I shall dream on... :zlove:
There is a procedure in the tech section to carry out an ACTU diagnostic which decipher the flashing power light. If your problem with the shift at will has been proven to be with the modded valve body, I'm sure someone out there would love to swap with you. The change over would be very simple for an auto tranny specialist as it's only a matter of removing about 20 small bolts, and the oil pan of course.
All is not lost (SAW) I have just got a mail from Maciej in Sweden, maker of the SAW.. I can connect the SAW to a laptop and adjust the line pressure settings etc etc for the SAW in the car so it will work again I hope, now I just have to get a 9pin parallel port socket to USB cable to be able to connect it up... stay tuned ! Anyone thinking of modifying the valves on a standard box (cost around $400) it is well worth it. Had mine been like this before buying SAW I would have reconsidered. Cheers
Get a Serial to USB converter form Jaycar, about $35. I have been using one from them for nearly 2 years and it's been faultless. What Maciej said about line pressure makes a lot of sense to me as the SAW will be calibrated to lift the line pressure higher and with the valve body modded will have taken it to levels making it do rather silly things. I can see a light at the end of tunnel Brin
I have a valve body adjustment already and am about to install the SAW kit. What did he suggest for the oil pressure values? Also, that flashing light indicates a code on the Auto trans when stock. Dunno about SAW. Mine indicated a broken lock up solenoid wire.
Auto diagnostic codes... Warning light should only flash 10 times . . . see below Are you sure it's flashing for the transmission? That would be the middle light (I think) in the warning panel to the right of the steering column. If it really is 15 flashes, then I'm not real sure what it could be indicating.
I think he means when you turn the car on. Normally, that light (plus the others) stay solid when the key is first turned then go off when you start the engine. instead, it's flashing a number of times instead of holding solid then going off as it should.
Power light will flash around 10-15 times after a few seonds when the ignition is turned on which indicates a fault. It's not a code just a warning. You need to go into diagnostic mode to get the correct number of flashes to decipher the fault.
ive been trying to get this diagnoistics to work but it doesnt flash at all. Am i doing something wrong then. Ive tried using to different tech articles to get it ot activate but still no go. any ideas?? One article said if it doesnt work check the immobiliser kickdown switch and something else??? could that be my problem?? then only thing ive been able to get is a few times when i start the engine the power light flashes 3 times is that what im surpose to see??
Its the power light that flashes It flashes even with the engine up & running too... I will try to run a diagnostic (2 non believers ?...) test this weekend.
Just ran diagnostics Result: number one fault - revolution sensor circuit fault I have to get the box off soon for a rear main seal replacement, so woould this be at the AT or would it be at the the ATCU or wires between ? I will have to go to a tranny specialist again now... Still to connect up the SAW and the laptop together to run the diagnostics for that too and adjust the values to suit the modded box, I think I will do this before it goes in for the seal because I might go another box and sell this one. It goes really well if you keep it in o/d with really snappy changes. Ho hum....
it could just be one of those plugs in the box not connected... about your valve body, who was it done by? you must have the usual ones where no matter how hard or soft the throttle is pushed the shifts will be harsh and strong... ive got the one done by mv auto's in adelaide. i love it. it works with throttle, so the harder the throttle is pushed the harder the shift is. soft cruising throttle and i still get the nice soft shifts...its a stage 2.5 aswell... im guessing you have the one done by keas? these are the ones that no matter how hard or soft the throttle is pushed the shift will be hard...
The box was modified at boxstop Brisbane and it pretty much slams it into gear whatever the driving conditions. It also lurches in o/d off when de-accellerating which is another adjustment on a needle to get done.
yeah i can understand why you wouldnt like it then. if you sell this, get a valve body from mv automatics in adelaide, as mentioned above it works with acceleration the harder the push the harder the shift...so cruising etc u still have your nice soft shifts. its great
I have a shift kit too. When my overdrive switches off it lurches once as it decelerates too. This can be fixed??? All my shifts are hard regardless of speed they happen. Even when I put my car into drive, you can feel the snap of the gears engaging. I thought this was because i had a stage 3 (which deletes the springs in the pistons), not a stage 2 (which replaces the springs with different ones).
hard to say every valve body modification is different. some concentrate on the internals of the valve body others concentrate on the outside of it as in the oil lines etc.... i have a stage 2 and i had to only put back 1 spring in. 2 other piston areas were closed off with welsh plugs. but again that wat was specified for my valve body mod. every ones is different. i dont actually know wat mv auto in adelaide do to make theres work with throttle response but it works. this is exactly why i didnt go for any of the ones made by others than mv auto, no one except them could do what i had in mind.
Yes it can There is a needle valve that regulates pressure to the over run clutch in 3rd gear. When the line pressure is adjusted this valve also needs adjusting. It is a common thing for THIS particular gearbox, bot not all, or even most autos. At Boxstop, some staff members were aware of it, some weren't, so, Mine also did this at first, and it was corrected when I took it back later to enquire why when I backed off in third gear, it was like someone was dumping the clutch constantly under deceleration. In Short, yes it can be resolved
Mine was made by KEAS who showed MV auto how to do it lol. But I guess since I installed it I didn't know about adjusting the needle valve. I'll have to look into that
i dont think thats right. keas showed knox auto in melb how to do it. keas valve body is different to mv auto valve body...pretty sure.
