sorry to bore you with another 'what the **** is wrong with my z' thread. I'm having a few issues, I think its kind of down to either the tps being out or perhaps I have a boost leak. but I'll run through some new symptoms. Obviously after all the work on the intake and the new spark plugs, the engine is sounding (and seems to be driving) a hell of a lot better than it ever had before. but it's still not there yet. my problems are: idle is not adjusting properly - starts ok but idles a bit high, and if the idle drops too much it dies can sometimes die if the car has been reved out to about the 3000 mark, ie, it just dies as soon as the revs come back down it tends to want to sit on 1000 - 1200 before later being comfortable on 850ish. but if I adjust it down further then it eventually dies apparent misfire - It seems to have a slight misfire which became more noticable after driving it around the block. after a few streets it starting idleing pretty rough so i pulled it back in the garage condensation coming out from the exhaust that causes some smoke - its a clear to rusty colour water dripping out of the exhaust when it starts to warm up. my coolent is a strong green colour and just refilled, and there is definately no green to what is dripping out of the exhaust. nothing seems to happen when I disconnect or reconnect the AAC connector from the AAC valve - I've set the idle air a few times and familiar with adjusting to 650 with the AAC disconnected then have the car adust itself when the AAC is reconnected, but disconnecting the AAC doesnt seem to have any affect in the revs what I know is - injectors are all firing - spark plugs are all brand new - AAC and FICD are from my old plenum which had no issues - TPS is from the new plenum and I think the z runs marginally better if its disconnected and running off the ecu (thinking I should put my old tps on and see if it makes a difference) - when I took it for a spin before it had a lot more 'Go' than ever before just driving normally. however when i checked, the timing was on 20 - 25 (because i fiddled with the cas) but dropping the timing back to 15 has resulted in the engine spluttering and not wanting to accelerate as well. - Compression across all cylinders is 150 with the highest reading at 152ish and the lowest at 148ish should I start taking Ohm readings from all injectors or does this sound like a possible boost leak? the most prominent thing which I haven't mentioned is that is smells really rich (fuel pressure is on 42psi with the vac line connected to the plenum)
I didn't read the whole post because it's probably all waffle, I got as far as when you answered your own question. Do a boost leak test, and check your TPS position.
Sometimes writing everything in a post is a good way to get it all out of your head and in order in front of you. Sometimes Makes your problems easy to see and where you went wrong or what you haven't considered yet. Some people will skim over it and others will read every word. Regardless it's good to wright a lengthy post rather then missing info. So don't apologise for a big write up. This isn't aimed at your comment at all Anti But Anti is right, do the two things he suggested and then get back to us
I was trying with a Multi Meter but i have a pretty dodgy one and couldnt get a reading. I had ecutalk but on an old windows 7 laptop I destoyed. trying to run ecutalk on windows 8 is a giant PITA.. i'm having a go at using ecutalk on my housemates laptop so i can try and get some readings... will report back
does anyone know how to get windows 8 to recognise the consult cable? I've tried downloading the FTDI driver (CDM v2.08.30) from the links, but the final screen flashes too quickly after it says its installed and i can't find the installed driver to update the cable driver in device manager.
It was prob the tps. I cant say what it was on because I swapped my old one back. but I had (11 starts) tps faults when I got ecutalk running and put mine in roughly the same position. It showed up as 60 and I had to turn it full clockwise to get it to 44. Will see how it goes tomorrow
I don't have a boost leak tester but ive checked everything I can... I might even put my old air reg in and see if that helps. Or clean the throttle bodies. Its really likes to stall. if its idleing ok and I disconnect the tps to reset it then it just dies.... And it now hesitates when I start to accelerate but then picks up again..
Wayne you must have put three or four posts in the tech section alone in the past six weeks, each detailing a different set of problems, and a number of different changes you've made in trying to solve each. You're more than welcome to keep posting, that's what the forum is here for, but mate in the interests of actually getting your car running can I offer the following well-meaning advice? Step away from the car. Just take a step back. Then make a list of everything that's wrong. Once you know what you're trying to figure out you can start the process of diagnosing your problems. If diagnosis is beyond your capabilities or equipment my suggestion would be to consider the possibility of taking it to somebody who is equipped to do so. I hope this doesn't seem unkind, but all you're doing at the moment is wasting your time going around in circles without ever making any proper diagnosis that can lead you to fault finding and a proper repair. This approach will not (to date it HAS not) get you anywhere. With regard to your post here Is the TPS for the correct year model? When you refer to your timing being 25*, is this measuring your base timing with a timing light? Because if yes it is too high. Period. When you refer to a "rough" idle is the idle too low? Too high? Does it hunt? Or are you referring to a misfire at idle? When you refer to the AAC valve have you disconnected the the plug and adjusted the base idle via the idle adjustment screw with i) the engine at operating temperature ii) the TPS correctly adjusted?
Thanks Rob When you refer to your timing being 25*, is this measuring your base timing with a timing light? Because if yes it is too high. Period. it was 25 with timing light but I set it back to 15 mechanically When you refer to a "rough" idle is the idle too low? Too high? Does it hunt? Or are you referring to a misfire at idle? it can bounce around a bit and wants to drop and almost stall. Often it will get too low and just stall. Or if I rev to 3000 and release throttle the revs drop too low then it dies When you refer to the AAC valve have you disconnected the the plug and adjusted the base idle via the idle adjustment screw with i) the engine at operating temperature ii) the TPS correctly adjusted? yes. But no change when I disconnect or reconnect the aac connector. Its like it isnt doing anything. Tps is set on 44 And its the old tps I was running for tge last 4 years. apart from the plenum im using all my old gear. aac air reg & tps Im uploading a vid of what its doing now. will probably take 30 minutes or so to process
Did you set the throttle switch as well when you set the TPS voltage? You need to make sure its switching as per the article I linked above other wise you've only done half the job. For timing get ECUtalk or Consult or something, you can't set mechanical timing on the Z without either disassembling the CAS or getting an oscilloscope, your timing as flashed with a light should always be the same as what the ECU readout is or something is broken. The Ecu readout should be 15 at idle or something is wrong too but setting the CAS so that the ECU isn't doing what it thinks it is just makes your timing wrong through the whole map.
By mechanicaly I mean with the timing light. Ill go back and see if I missed something in that link. thanks fists
So with the car at operating temperature you adjusted the CAS so that the light flashed when the timing mark on the crank pulley passed 15* on the cover, yes? How did you have the timing light connected?
Push what thing? You are not being very clear or specific in your answers which makes it hard for a third party (me or anyone else reading) to understand what you have done.
Ive done that tons of times setting my tps. Set it to 44 or whatever then disconnect the grey connector. Here in lays the problem. Even with the car warmed up and idling at 850rpm as soon as I disconnect thr grey lead the drop in revs kills the car. this has never happened beforr in the last 4 years. it just doesn't want to low idle. Even at 650 which shouldn't stall it
