That's ok Chris, I can export it as a dxf if i need to. It's probably easier for you to be the "go to man" for the dxf anyway
you could do them flat instead of having them bent. and get them cut from 4mm and just tap them instead of having weld nuts on the back
Series 1 to 2 in an N/A Gidday, I was just wondering if there's any benefit in upgrading my 1990 Aus N/A to Series II??
Are there two types of s1 ptu's reason being ive opened up a few now and found some that are gel filled and some that have the pcb exposed?
do the ones that have no gel have remnants of where gel used to be. maybe they die when the gel goes.
the gel filled are made different, they dont look ol school inside. ill try dig up some pics for comparison.
Lol. I thought most people would understand there are 7 wires on one side, and six on the other, and once you bring the earth around, you just move down the line one-to-one. It's not rocket science, trust me.
Tip- connect the earth wire on the 7 pin side of the new PTU wires to the corresponding wire on the other side first. That way, you can't mix the wires up. From there it's just connect the dots in line using the above photo/diagram.
I Absolutely agree with Mark on this. That is why in the photo the earth is already extended, because that is the first to be done.
hi all The tech section lists the part number for the series 2 ptu as 22020-97E11 I was given a supposed series 2 ptu for a 300zx but the number is 22020-97E00 Does anyone know if this part is still useable or not is it from a different car? regards Linda
It will work fine, It is an alternate part number for the module. from memory i think there is about 6 others.
As heavytrevy said the number does not matter as long as it looks different to the series 1 it is a series 2. Cheers Dave
ok got my s2 ptu in and you know the engine feels different,,for the better cleaner to rev ,is this common after pissing off the s1 ptu
You aren't the first to say that the S2 PTU has made the car idle/run better. I don't like to promote it as a benefit because it doesn't apply to everyone. Good news!
it starts easier,runs smoother,it idles at 1200rpm ,not 1600,when after changing a lot of little senders and other parts i bought from repco,im excited to say the s2 ptu was the missing link,,extremely happy i decided to change it,,i guess the the series 1 ptu being 70precent alloy ,suffers from over heating bc when the motor had warmed up it just seemed doey and down on power.it still pulled well but when cold would lift you so hard,,now with s2 ptu it runs hard when its hot, more power is a better thing
Update on earth wire I have just been advised that the earth wire sometimes breaks at the solder joint. This will be due to the weight of the thick copper wire stressing the joint. I suggest either using a cable-tie to hold the earth cable at the ctitical point, use a thinner earth wire, or both. The next time I wire up a PTU I will determine how much current flows throught the earth, and that will give me some insight as to what size wire to use.
