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Z Re-builds Rebuilding your ZX? Post about it here. This is for major rebuild threads only, minor mods and tech questions still go in Z Related Technical

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Old 25-09-2016, 08:41 PM   #21
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I can not friggin believe it... I now have working air-conditioning

apart from being somewhat chuffed with myself, I'm pretty pissed that I've paid a reputable sparky that only seemed to take me up the garden path.

all the info I needed, I found in the z32 service manuals, the same ones I gave to him.. Just goes to show if your willing to learn, you can fix anything.



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Old 25-09-2016, 09:35 PM   #22
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Nice

Nice find mate
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Old 26-09-2016, 06:21 PM   #23
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Nice find mate
Cheers

Dont know whether to laugh or cry.. all that time and money spent and the problem was in front of everyone's faces. It was right next to the ac low pressure switch

Spent a little while in the service manual looking at harness locations, sensors, fuses and relays and wire colour codes and ecu pin numbers.. So I knew what I was looking at and saw it virtually straight away.

Well, at least I've gathered a few extra parts for anything else in the future


Found this page to be useful as the service manual only has the series one auto pod diagnostic procedure. This page is for the series two.

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/autocctech.html
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Old 01-10-2016, 05:34 PM   #24
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Great stuff..... good to see you having a good go with your car mate. and wont be long before (hopefully) I can get you around to help on mine lol, my new tyres are on as of this week and now its all basic stuff like oil leaks and finishing the assembly to get her going. - that and sorting the typical drivers seat tears
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Had Mexican the night before! Lunch was a double quarter pounder. I live my life a 1/4 pound at a time.
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Old 01-10-2016, 06:15 PM   #25
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Great stuff..... good to see you having a good go with your car mate. and wont be long before (hopefully) I can get you around to help on mine lol, my new tyres are on as of this week and now its all basic stuff like oil leaks and finishing the assembly to get her going. - that and sorting the typical drivers seat tears
Haha.. thanks mate.. yep, there's no greater satisfaction then fixing your own beast after the 'pros' have had their turn. Ive actually managed to be refunded %100 after showing and the exact fault to the auto electrician and Auto Masters

Stu, if I'm not working and available, I'd be more then happy to give you a hand. I want to see that beast on the road as much as you do
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Old 01-10-2016, 06:26 PM   #26
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ABS Diagnostic and High start up idling

Next on the agenda is to figure out and fix why my abs is not working. I've found a mechanic who is my sisters fiancee's friend and I will be taking the car there for his Conzult and to finally change the oil and give the car a once over.

I dont have a warning light on the dash but then again I havnt checked to see if there is a working globe where its supposed to be and to be honest I haven't road tested the brakes to see if indeed I lock up... maybe because I've just put on new tyres and I dont particularly want to flat spot them.


I've also been noticing that every morning on a cold start I idle around 1.5k till it warms up a little bit and the revs drop. On friday morning it idled at 2k and with a grey coloured exhaust that was quit noticable.

I'm thinking Idle air valve.. Anyone have any suggestions

I noticed the steering a little stiff but it eased off once the car was warm and throughout the day there was no repeat. It only seems to happen when the car is completely cold in the morning.
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Old 02-10-2016, 03:06 PM   #27
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No Clutch!!

Need some emergancy assistance. Today I have no clutch!

looked at the clutch cylinder and there was no fluid. Theres a bit of a pool of fluid left on the driveway.. I'm assuming thats the clutch fluid

Can someone point me in the right direction to the procedure of putting\replacing the fluid as i know there are bleed points.

Any help will be appreciated
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Old 02-10-2016, 09:33 PM   #28
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You'll need to fix the problem before bleeding it mate. Possibly the slave cylinder or the flexible line, get under there and have a look where it leaked from.
Shout out if you need a hand.
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Old 02-10-2016, 11:04 PM   #29
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sorry missed this earlier buddy, as Mentioned you need to fix the leak first, or you will be in the same boat in a couple of days time. likely a bad seal in the slave cylinder or similar (again as mentioned) figure out where its leaking. A bit of cardboard under the car, fire her up and pump the clutch, chances are you will see the oil oozing out. yes its easier with 2 and easier again with it up in the air. make sure you clean off any fluid from body work etc. then repair/replace the faulty component. Once all that is sorted you can worry about bleeding it and getting it 100%
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:20 AM   #30
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Cheers fellas, its all good... Ive got a flat bed arriving this morning to take it to Top Notch automotive. I'll find out sometime today whats exactly wrong
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Old 03-10-2016, 09:32 PM   #31
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The culprit..

So I went pass the mechanics late in the day and was happy to learn the problem was fixed and the car is staying over night to make sure the system is bleed properly. Anthony at Top Notch automotive had the part made up with the correct fittings and replaced

It was leaking where the metal clamps onto the flex pipe. Top left in this pic.
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Old 04-10-2016, 06:51 PM   #32
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They say no news is good news... I have news

Clutch peddle isn't holding pressure, stays right for a couple of minutes and then goes squishy. Problem is pointing to the master cylinder.. getting a price for replacement oem or re manufactured

If its not one thing...
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Old 09-11-2016, 05:17 PM   #33
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Update

New master clutch cylinder installed and after a couple of adjustments on the pedal, she's good as new


Even had the previous owners approval




Lingering Problems

Ive recently noticed a fluoro green substance/liquid on my aircon compressor. Looks like I've either got wasted O rings on the pipes or the seals inside the compressor are shot. From underneath it looks like its coming from the middle of the front of the compressor. I havnt been able to verify from the top as I havnt had time to remove intake pipes etc.

Still no ABS, want to get the car on Consult to give it a test so I know where to start looking. its times like these I wish I had space and equipment to get under the car and start sorting some sh#t out.

I've recently bought a boost leak gauge from Z1 as I'm sure I've got leaks.
It's going to be a fun adventure going through vacuum and boost pipes.
my symptoms are stuttering as if its misfiring when you take your foot off the accelerator. High idle at times for no reason 1.5k rev and above at times. differentiating turbo lag, sometimes its quick, sometimes it takes forever to feel a bit of boost.

an annoying one ..

When I brake, the window washer jets on the bonnet squirt
When the washer bottle is empty and is filled, it wont squirt under brakes. But as soon as you use the washer jets just once, it will leak under braking till the tank is empty.
Also, I had the vehicle at work and noticed the continuous leak from the right front, under the bumper. it was definitely just water. Driving home, the dash light for window water stayed on..


Im guessing I have some sort of faulty valve on the pump or the washer bottle is stuffed. But the leak at the front has me stuffed
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Old 09-11-2016, 05:26 PM   #34
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There's definitely an advantage about taking your daily driven Zed to work





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Old 14-11-2016, 09:14 PM   #35
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Potential overheat problem...

Today in Perth, it reached just below 37 deg. Thought it would be a good time to test the cooling sytem out before summer really hits.

Driving around normally, only noticed a 2-3 degree difference on the gauge. Operating the aircon was a different story. With aircon on low, the temp soared to 90 degrees on the gauge

Did the auxilary fan test and can confirm there's power to the fan itself. So not a power issue.. phwew.
While the engine was warm I did a resistance test on the temp sensor, good range is .30 to .33 k-ohms.. I'm reading .34 to .35
waiting for the engine to cool down to test it at cold. Looks like things are possibly pointing to a new sensor.

Can anyone point me in the right direction for a GOOD REPLACEMENT part online please?
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Old 14-11-2016, 09:38 PM   #36
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you only got 37, was 39 at my place at 4:30 and my dad was just telling me that he left work at 2pm in Geraldton because he could not be bothered working in 43deg......
on track your AC has to take the heat from your cabin and put it somewhere in this case its there in front of the radiator. I have not looked into it but it does not surprise me that you hit 90deg with the ac on especially if the air flow is not optimum (maybe from slow traffic) and if you have an old radiator adding to it it could be quite possible. Not saying its good just that its quite possible.
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Old 15-11-2016, 10:44 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by STocKi View Post
Today in Perth, it reached just below 37 deg. Thought it would be a good time to test the cooling sytem out before summer really hits.

Driving around normally, only noticed a 2-3 degree difference on the gauge. Operating the aircon was a different story. With aircon on low, the temp soared to 90 degrees on the gauge

Did the auxilary fan test and can confirm there's power to the fan itself. So not a power issue.. phwew.
While the engine was warm I did a resistance test on the temp sensor, good range is .30 to .33 k-ohms.. I'm reading .34 to .35
waiting for the engine to cool down to test it at cold. Looks like things are possibly pointing to a new sensor.

Can anyone point me in the right direction for a GOOD REPLACEMENT part online please?
thats not unusual in hot weather. particurly with a bit of stop start traffic.

i wouldnt be worried.
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Old 15-11-2016, 02:03 PM   #38
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you only got 37, was 39 at my place at 4:30 and my dad was just telling me that he left work at 2pm in Geraldton because he could not be bothered working in 43deg......
on track your AC has to take the heat from your cabin and put it somewhere in this case its there in front of the radiator. I have not looked into it but it does not surprise me that you hit 90deg with the ac on especially if the air flow is not optimum (maybe from slow traffic) and if you have an old radiator adding to it it could be quite possible. Not saying its good just that its quite possible.
Oh I'm welcoming the warm weather mate, been hating Perth since I've returned from PortHedland.. looking forward to summer no doubt, Just want to tripple check the Zed will survive..lol
My Spidey sensors are tuned too acute as soon as I notice something out of the norm for me, I jump on it.
Till now, cruising temps are 78-80 deg all day... only notice it jump to 84 one day in heavy traffic.
Yesterday made me take note as I was pushing 90 deg and when I arrived home I sat idling with the aircon on to see if the aux fan would turn on.... it didnt.
After checking this page, 'Auxiliary Fan Operation and Diagnostic Tips' in the tech section, I see that the fan on low speed wont activate till around the 95 deg mark and high speed at 100 deg

Guess I''m just going to give it a boot full to see if indeed the fan does what its supposed to

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thats not unusual in hot weather. particurly with a bit of stop start traffic.

i wouldnt be worried.
Cheers for the calming words I cant wait to have enough coin to put in a new radiator and recon this air con compressor... and I'll be all set.

Anyone else have a coolant smell around the engine bay but with no leaks, when its particularly warm?
no smell in the cabin ( thank F#ck ) only outside and around the engine bay.. makes me check for leaks every single time I smell it but no visible leaks and no loss of coolant level. Would the silicon hoses that I have be of some cause?
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Old 15-11-2016, 02:41 PM   #39
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Received my boost leak kit from Z1 today... and of course a couple of other items hat, shirt, titanium blank key, decals and targa straps. Nothing major but if anyone needs to do a boost test, I can help out
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Old 15-11-2016, 02:47 PM   #40
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Anyone else have a coolant smell around the engine bay but with no leaks, when its particularly warm?
no smell in the cabin ( thank F#ck ) only outside and around the engine bay.. makes me check for leaks every single time I smell it but no visible leaks and no loss of coolant level. Would the silicon hoses that I have be of some cause?
how strong is the smell?

if its just faint, then it could be old coolant on the motor burning off.

remember that your car has had open heart surgery (engine out) very recently, and fluids end up on evey surface during that lol.

if stronger, then its possible you have a tiny leak or seeping clamp. you could have a tiny leak and not see a noticable loss of coolant for weeks/months at a time, but it will be enough for the nose to detect.
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