Project Pics Take 2

Discussion in 'Member's Garage' started by rob260, Dec 30, 2013.

  1. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    Quick vid - look forward to getting this on a stand and checking it out more thoroughly

     
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  2. beaver

    beaver southern zeds

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    that was quick, like my first beer gone in 10 seconds.
     
  3. IB

    IB ?????

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    Should be running by Zedfest?
     
  4. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    Started getting the cleanup done and a little assembly. It’s going be in an out a fair bit so wanted to get it sealed up 100%.

    First thing cleaning out the threads around the thermostat as this is a little easier with everything out of the way. I always do these ones by hand as even with a chaser the alloy is a lot easier to mess up. You can see how much shit comes out of the hole.

    7A0E4D8F-AAA0-4000-BFDE-F2FC44C8F744.jpeg

    Next up fit my Billion thermostat. This has a 65 degrees opening temperature and higher flow. No I don’t have a blanket belief that every car should have a low temp t’stat but planning to push some big numbers through this so even on e85 there’s going to be some heat to sea with. For $160 I expected a jiggle valve but whatevs.

    9A8C44F5-391E-42A2-A420-756286D99624.jpeg

    BDE engine mounts in next. Cheated a little cleaning these threads - love my little CP 12v impact.



    The mounts themselves are awesome and fairly straightforward to install. You get all all the fasteners as well as some ARP thread live in the kit so no excuse for not doing it right.

    Adapter plate goes on first. These are really nice, CNC machines, anodised, stainless wire threads etc...

    CBEECD40-6C42-4123-9728-81291EBBA504.jpeg

    Mount and bushes next. I hate using these counter sunk type bolts in high torque applications and you can see why in the pic below... job done though. The ARP stainless hex bolts are really nice though!

    974DA10C-FFD6-4BD1-85E0-C77EC7FFD54F.jpeg
     
  5. beaver

    beaver southern zeds

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    There has to be 3 bolts holding the mount to the adaptor plate.. or not?
     
  6. IB

    IB ?????

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    Looks like one mount bolt goes through the adaptor into the block.
     
  7. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    Hi Geoff yes three bolts per mount. On the passenger side they all go into the adapter, on the driver side (pictured) one of the bolts goes through the plate and into the block as Ian mentioned. So each mount is secured by one bolt in each of the two top corners, and the third which is accessed via the tube section of the mount itself.
     
  8. lidz

    lidz Well-Known Member

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    Nice one Rob, great it see your build continuing to progress!
     
  9. beaver

    beaver southern zeds

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    Thanks, I thought so, some nice bits you've collected Rob.. well done man.
     
  10. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    Gotta move house in a couple of weeks which means I really need to do some work on my own car for a change. Much easier to move these spares on the car than in boxes...

    Starting with fitting up my R35 GTR coil kit today. I sell these at RGS Performance but hadn't actually had a chance to fit a kit. Pleasantly surprised to find it all very easy; the coil packs can be oriented multiple ways to clear stock and aftermarket intake manifolds.

    Being a smart coil they won't require a Power Transistor Unit although it's all about increasing spark output to cope with a lot of boost. This is a very common upgrade on just about every other Nissan platform (and others) and as high output as you can go short of Mercury marine coils or CDI.

    Will have to remove them at some stage to switch to lower profile intake valve covers to match the Ash plenum but that's a problem for future Rob...

    7E3D7A3D-7E62-41A9-9BCF-5A251947DF00.jpeg
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  11. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    Little bit more for today.

    Started out with the intention of fitting my Ikeya Formula lower front arms to finish up the front end but that was going to take a whole lot more adjustment than I had time for so the factory lower arm and tube agent tension rods are back on for now.

    Take note never sell anything or throw it away until your new parts are actually on the car...

    On that note I started eyeing off big(ger) brake kits to replace mine a little while back. The brembos were already more capable than the driver but Japanese six piston kits kept catching my eye so I picked these up second hand.

    CC870DF8-A438-4F63-9C21-122B92456313.jpeg

    Endless six piston racing callipers with 370mm two piece rotors. Could use a good cleanup but that’s gonna have to wait.

    Also fit some wheels I bought a while back. These have been my dream wheel since I started - Nismo LMGT4.

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    Pretty happy with how it’s all coming together although looking forward to taking it all apart again down the track lol
     
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  12. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    Little bit more done in between the shit that goes with getting a house ready for sale...

    Changed the cast alloy thermostat bypass tubes for billet ones.

    F7401247-7719-42DD-A673-DAE37186A70E.jpeg

    Installed my alloy alternator mount and 180a alternator.

    F1716E7C-DBE5-4DDD-B8B9-A93BBB154F9E.jpeg

    Everything is going together with these ARP 6 point stainless bolts where possible. Because details.

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    I’m also using stainless locking washers on anything important. Same idea as nyloc except these have a metal claw that keeps tension on the threads. Have used below on the tensioner pivot and also on the timing idler studs.

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    Lots of cleaning and polishing before parts go on. Where the CAS would normally be is the cam sensor for my trigger kit.

    DA7AE8CA-FEDF-48C5-AF3A-5AE6DEA2E251.jpeg

    At this stage the engine is not really being set up to run as the best step will be fabricating exhaust manifolds before it comes out again to install turbos etc. My main priority is to get it together enough to establish the external dimensions, for it to be sealed, and anything that does go on preferably goes on in such a way that it doesn’t need to come off again!
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2021
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  13. MintZ32

    MintZ32 Active Member

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    Watch out where you use the stainless bolts! We are currently going through a phase out process at work with any stainless bolt used on alloy base metals due to stainless acting as a cathode pulling electrons from the anode (the aluminum threads) and causing them to corrode...

    Not to scare you but just something to keep in mind.

    Build looks great on the other hand :)
     
  14. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    That’s really interesting - are there any other factors that could be contributing? Environmental aspects? What sort of time frame is this occurring in?
     
  15. Harts

    Harts Active Member

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    Galvanic corrosion caused by the use of dissimilar metals. Metals which are further apart on the anodic index will corrode faster. Aluminium and 300/400 stainless are not super close on the index. Aluminium and galvanised steel or zinc plated steel are much closer (corrode much, much slower when used together). Combination of ally/ss not typically recommended without insulation or coating.

    Environmental factors which increase the corrosion rate are temp, dirt and electrolyte (water etc). In the case of SS and aluminium, the Aluminium will corrode and strengthen the SS (SS being more noble). Corrosion will occur quick enough with environmental factors.

    Stainless steel is a doozy, I never install stainless into rough environments without anti-sieze in low brow applications and a good quality, hi temp silicon grease in high brow applications.
     
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  16. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    Galvanic corrosion will only occur in the presence of an electrolyte (https://www.worldstainless.org/Files/issf/non-image-files/PDF/Euro_Inox/Contact_with_Other_EN.pdf).

    Any fastener I install on any motor in any car ever first has the threads cleaned with a chaser tap abs blown out, and the fastener itself is installed with ARP fastener assembly lube on all recommended surfaces.

    This is mainly to achieve accurate and repeatable torque spec as per below, but also reading through some literature I don’t really expect that fasteners installed under those conditions will cause corrosion of the alloy parts.

    I do appreciate the input and discussion though!

     
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  17. MintZ32

    MintZ32 Active Member

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    That's certainly going to help. We were using a Teflon barrier between dissimilar metals in the food and pharmaceutical manufacturing industry. The other fun factor to deal with is crevice corrosion which can happen when stainless is cut off from oxygen. Stainless needs oxygen to maintain its passive surface layer, note this also includes the area below the bolt head / washer onto the mating surface which is not typically coated with an anti corrosive agent.

    https://www.assda.asn.au/technical-info/surface-finishes/crevices-and-corrosion#:~:text=A crevice is a narrow,for corrosive attack to begin.

    However, you may never have a problem... Touch wood!
     
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  18. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    If you're using the installation lube correctly the bolt heads and washers get coated as well.

    If I'm reading that article correctly they're referring to corrosion occurring at less than -10 degrees celsius for 304 stainless? Which is a condition a motor will never see in this country.
     
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  19. MintZ32

    MintZ32 Active Member

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    Yes, in that particular lab condition when using ferric chloride solution. Like most lab conditions, it is an accelerated test. Note that the two rows show different test conditions, on different stainless grades. Open surface corrosion and crevice corrosion. The former occured at 3°C. Vs -10 on SUS304. I don't know what grade ARP use, but It probably won't be 304 due to its low tensile strength.

    Anyway as said originally, not to scare you just more to make you aware they are incompatible materials. You may never have a problem, but there is a chance :)
     
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  20. beaver

    beaver southern zeds

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    Ive used tef-jell where dissimilar materials ie, ss marine grade bolts/screws into alloy, and it works. I dont think its going to work as well, where torqueing down screws bolts is concerned.
     
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