Have to agree this is one thing I miss from other forums. Much better than having to read through 20 pages of changes to find the current details of a build. First post I would have an introduction and current specs, second post pics, third post vids or other links, and update them as you go. The rest of the thread is then the history of the build.
So if I understand correctly you guys are suggesting that The first post in the build thread stays open to edits, and becomes a dynamic record of the modifications that are on the car The subsequent posts and replies detail the chronological evolution of the car ? As this forum currently stands I don't know that it's viable to have one post stay open for edits but not others, or even if it's possible to lock the edit window in some forums but not others. I just don't know enough about the operating platform to answer that one. At the moment you're better off using the garage feature (which other members can access either through the header menu, or go straight to your car via a link in your profile) to detail your "current mods" and the rebuilds section to record the "journey". That said we have a moderators meeting next week; if you can link me to some examples of what you're referring to I'll happily table it for discussion.
Cheers Rob. Yeah your break down was spot on. First post is current specs, other replies are history. Garage I've never been a fan of using. Simply as a lot of people find it as a link to another area instead of where the bulk of detail is. Unsure of this forum, but most others it simply comes down to laziness on the replyers part. There should be a way to allow editing through-out in 1 forum alone. I will link you some tonight by pm after work.
Hi Rob, might want to split this out to another thread for discussion. Most forums I've been on, editing is simply allowed period. I think this is the only forum where editing is not allowed. Not only for build threads, but also for sale threads. It's annoying having to read through 3 or 4 pages and still not really know what is sold and what is not. Most people only read the first post and then reply. Would be much better if we could edit the first post as items are added or sold.
couple of examples. http://www.4gtuner.com/topic/14610-astron-boys-g63b-powered-magna/?hl=astron http://ftoaustralia.com/v3/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=29933 Other forums I am a part of require registration to view build threads, but you get the idea.
Dammit, I became impatient and drill a tiny hole on each card. Mounted them right near that triangle.
Thanks to Ryzan for supplying the parts needed. A few before and afters here. The stupid macgyver repairs on the pod box means the plastic is slightly tarnished, this will bug me in time, but for now, the thing doesn't squeak. The stereo surround is slightly askew, due to some plastic behind there being broken and/or missing, so will be rebuilding behind there in a day or two with some fabricated metal brackets. Removed an old Nokia car kit from the center console, and it's poorly installed wiring. Found the heater matrix has had it. I wondered why the previous owner would replace a radiator if they had no overheating problems, well it's because when the car was in storage for a decade, they didn't drain fluids, so the cooling system corroded all, and now ofcourse the heater matrix has popped. Also changed the parker lights to Cree LED, almost DLR's now. Nice upgrade. Can someone please tell me what this is for? Doesn't seem to draw vacuum...
How do they compare with your Halogen low beams? looks brighter than DRLs measure Lux with this app, https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bti.lightMeter You will have to bypass the heater core
The parkers are 5w at 5500k. The halogen low beams are far brighter, but not as white, they are the Philips... Clear vision? But not as white in comparison. Yeah, heater core will be bypassed for now, and will replace heater matrix prior to winter.
Big thanks to East Coast Z for providing me with the required injector. Car now runs on all 6 and really really smooth. Massive shout out to my mate Jay for taking a day out to install and perform some required repairs. Injector #6 was cactus, cracked through the casing and leaking fuel around. EGR was spewing oil back in to the intakes at an alarming rate, now blanked. though not entirely removed. Some Bilsteins were attained, though sadly despite being for Fairlady Z 32, the hats are Skyline job, and so will not fit in to the tower, Bilstein rears, factory fronts currently.
Quick note, generally you can get aftermarket skyline coilovers to fit, you just need to trim a bit off one side of the top alloy plate. Unfortunately you can't do that with the Bilsteins you have pictured as the spring is much bigger diameter and fills out the top hat.
Yeah, unsure what to do with the fronts. Will have to wait for some spare time for a good inspection.
Take a pic of the top hats from top down side by side the factory shock. From your pic below the spring diameter looks the same, maybe you can swap the tops over?
Did a lot of smaller jobs lately without taking photos. Spent an entire afternoon cleaning the targa channels/ drain points, etc. Whoever did the respray didn't bother to plug the holes, so I was getting mass amounts of paint out. There is still a leak, which I believe I know where it's from, but the targa channels now no longer allow water in. Also upgraded the headlights to... (flame suit on) HID 5K. For now I've mounted the cheap nasty ballasts in the headlight cavity, but will put in my more reliable set one day in the future within the bar for better air flow. Also performed the low beam/ hi beam mod for better visibility. Still tossing up on spot/ fog lights where the indicator/ parkers are.
If you have HID lows and standard hi beam on together, then you don't need driving lights. Your halogens look very yellow when turned on with the low beams. Very obvious One of your previous photos is rfi on mystery hose at rear of engine bay. I think there is a hose that connects to the battery tray to drain. Might be that? If on that side.
The hose we discovered to be a vac hose when we did the egr and coolant delete. All sorted now. Yeah the halos do look obvious when HID are on, but I'd tap the trigger for the spot/fogs off the hi beam anyway, and if fog, would do a yellow globe.
Still hoping that you will do the hard work and find a power wire in the engine bay loom that is switched from the fog light button.
I don't believe one exists. different loom for different models. Awaiting for the car back from the body shop. Was hoping to pick it up tomorrow, but seems as though it's going to be a Friday collection... and fingers crossed on that. Awaiting to install my next lot of goodies.
