Test fitting in the bay to check clearance etc. Don't worry the valve covers and plenum are getting painted later.
Post painting, regasketing etc. Should of painted the balancer but oh well. Had recently done a major timing service on this motor. Also replaced the turbo oil lines, exhaust manifold gasket, new waste gates (old ones were leaking) plus some other things.
Found some more photos of the ening assembly; Pre and post the cleaning of the smoo off the turbos. I ended up getting a parts washer for this worked a treat. Some nice shiny painted mounts betting fitted;
More to add -Purchased new engine loom / trans loom due to the old one having the consistency of cheese. -Bde oil filter relocation with thermostatic oil cooler -Rear knuckle rebuild with poly bushing
I ran into a similar tuning issue as you several years ago. After fitting new Nismo 740's, the engine ran fine when I retuned it to 500-600cc, but for the life of me couldn't get it to run properly at 740cc or anywhere near that. Turns out the injectors my friend had bought were fake/redrilled or something, only found this out after getting them flow tested where they performed around the 500cc mark.
Ahh I had them flow tested and cleaned I think they were all good. Issue ended up being the timing 180* degrees out. Got it started!. Now to sort the idle - seems to die with any throttle, got the afr to 14.7~ but there is a bit of a hunt going on. Smoke tested it with zero leaks. Going to check the fuel pressure next, have a feeling I got the link settings for the fpcu wrong.
Man I would assume that car has an aftermarket fuel pump and is not running the FPCU. If it's not then it really should with those turbos and injectors.
I've checked, I am not sure exactly what is occuring with the FPCU, but it seems to have been bypassed and the pump is getting 12v. Next step is to check fuel pressure, lent my FPR to a mate so he could check the same thing. If fuel pressure is good, injectors need to come out to check their flow rate.
I recently replaced a rear wheel bearing, and noticed the knuckle bushings were bad. Naturally replacing them turned into a huge project. Poly bushing kit installed New wheel bearings on both side, new hub (both were scored from removal). New suspension arms. New nismo arms courtsey of @rob260 All coming out; Axle nut was very very tight. Had to use some large cheater bars on it. Photos of pressing out the old hubs, had to use some tricky ways. The second time I did this, I used a torch to heat up the hub, and a socket and hammer to drive them out. 100% easier than the press/vice. New bushes all installed;
Hub full assembled; Installed in the car. Also replaced all the bolts. Need to tidy up a few more things like the calipers but thats a job for another day. Happy to say there is no more suspension movement when I shake the wheel!
Went for a drive in a car with turbo smart BOV and was hooked. Got the kit from @rob260, went in easy. I already had replaced the stock bov with silicon from Z1. Can't do any mod without having a biscuit!
Before I post the BOV I should provide some context to the cooler setup. My original stock cooler was super beat up, and I wanted to run a bigger one. Naturally I went slightly overboard. Purchased an aeroflow cooler with a filter relocation from Rob. I had already installed the BDE filter relocation on the block. Filter block with fittings Whipped up a custom mount for the cooler with the filter on the size. I spent ages thinking about where to put the cooler. I saw some had been put under the nose cone. I wanted to have it tucked out of the way, but not too difficult to do a filter change.
View under the car, ignore the jacked up rad support : - ( Nice and easy without spilling oil everywhere! The reason I did this was wanting to clean up the engine and run a thermostatic oil cooler. The stock oil filter tree is also veeeerry close to the waste gate actuator arm when running bigger turbos.
All the lines ran. Ended up running past the alternator, and against the frame rail. Then for the cooler just made these little hoses. Works well. Tested it by checking the cooler hoses stay hot when the car runs. Bad photo, but can see it sits fairly square in the bar.
Built a quick sensor loom. Running bosh pressure/temp sensors for oil and fuel, and the polar engineering MAP/iat sensor. Its very well hidden under the plenum, highly recommend running one of these.
I had a short shifter on the car, always hated it. Found a stock shifter at great cost. Did a brass bushing plus changed the internal bushings. So much grease.... Shifting feels great!
I forgot to add, in the eternal parts purchases, got my hands on a 2k gearbox. Very excited to shift with my new shifter and new gearbox
Heres a pic with the new oil cooler setup. Plus I wacked some z1 intercoolers on it while I was there.
