Hi all, I have just recently had a crack at making my first earthing kit. It actually turned out very nicely and I'm now opening up the offer to anyone who wants one made up for themselves as well. I'm still finalising the pricing as I want to check how much i paid for the stuff, but I'd assume around $50 + postage. I'd assume postage to be $10 +/- $5, I'll work that out later too. Benefits of grounding kit: - Small increase in HP (if you have inadequate existing grounds) - Possible increases in headlight brightness, smoother idle, easier starting and better performance from other electrical systems in the car including radio. How?: A ground isn't a yes or no prospect. The ground needs to balance out all the current being drawn from the positive side of the battery. Stock 300's have two grounding points. When the negative cable is replaced, sometimes the stock ground aren't reused and even if they are, if two grounds are better than one, then even more must be better still. One of the largest benefits could be from an increase of voltage regulation to the fuel injectors. And it also looks good, so it's cheap bling with a functional purpose. Construction: These kits can be seen for sale from Stillen and others for $150 - $200. I can honestly say my kit is as good or better than theirs. I'm not sure how theirs are made, but I have made mine out of 8 gauge, 100% OFC (oxygen-free copper) cable. Oxygen free cable has had all the impurities removed from it, making it one of the best power cables available. I have gold plated terminals on the end, I'm sure you all know about the excellent conductive properties of gold, as well as it's excellent corrosion resistance. The terminals should continue looking good for a long long time. All cables will be tested for conductance and instructions provided. I can do the cable in black, solid red or transparent red. If you have a special request for colour combinations, let me know and I'll see what I can do. I will also customise the ends depending on your negative terminal. Some negative terminals will have slots for 8 gauge wire, others won't. Here are some pics: Kit:
Thanks for that, I should have looked first. However, you'll notice the ebay kits don't mention the materials they use to construct their kits ie. OFC cable or cheaper type? Also, the length of the wire is important, you don't want long wire running all over the place, the right length makes it look better in my opinion. Most importantly, you'll notice their kits work by running all the wires in parallel. I've read in a few places, including by some reputable 300zx tuners, that earths should be run in series, not in parallel for best performance. However, I'll now say the price will probably be $50, postage included. Compare to ebay: Generic kit (quality and fitment issues, + runs in parallel): $51-$55 delivered Vehicle specific Kit (same as mine but more expensive): $100+ delivered Stillen etc (I cannot see why these cost so much): $150 - $200+ delivered My kit: $50 delivered Plus I'll customise mine depending on your negative terminal requirements.
make sure you silver solder the eyelets to the cable, i bought a 5 point earthing kit off the forum and all the wires fell out because of the heat of the engine bay, i silver soldered them and they are great now cheers
Yep, I could imagine that happening as the rings got hot. Don't worry, these are soldered. Who was selling them on the forums.
I've got mine wired up in series.. Though I noticed I think HKS makes their kit spider out from the battery. ie each cable is completely separate. That said, I have no idea about which method is the best..
The way I understand it, electricity will travel along the path of least resistance. If you have them all spidering out of the battery, the electricity will travel along the shortest wire. An 8 ga. wire is HEAPS in terms of carrying enough current from the battery. It comes down to the ground being able to take the current. If in series, the current will travel along the wire to the first ground, dump there, travel to the second, dump there, if any left, travel to the third dump there etc. Both ways MAy work fine, but do you want 5 cables coming out of the battery? Also means you use much more wire.
i got an ebay one delivered for $60 Its a spider one with bucketloads of wire.. so much i couldnt use it all. Came with a little useless voltage stabliser box aswell.
nope, you want it in parallel it's simple, you are trying to reduce the resistance of the system, and the more parallel runs you can create the better - ie, interconnect everything think of a spiderweb, where each node has lines connecting each other, not like a star where everything all has a single connection to a centre point
What the hell yeah i guess I would be interested at that price... look to be well made. Would have to be in black or blue though.....
Black is easy, if you really want blue I will have a look around, I'm sure it's out there just waiting to be in a Z engine bay Do the mounting points I used in my Z all exist in yours (they really should haha)? And what sort of -ve battery terminal do you have?
Cool that would be ideal Yeah sure do Stocko but it's a bit tired so will probably just fit a saddle type soon anyway, you know the kind I mean??
Not sure about saddle type. I got one of these for just under $30: I'll try and have a look for the cable today or tomorrow. Will post when I find it. You want solid blue or transparent blue?
Ummmmmm since you asked I reckon transparent might look cool? But solid is OK too. Terminal should be OK -with your kit do you feed the wire into one of those holes on the terminal or does it have a ring you can put a bolt through?
I can attach a ring if you like. Mine goes straight into the terminal (two holes in my terminal, one for each wire), but I can fit two extra rings if you like.