Big problem with the ttz

Discussion in 'Technical' started by WLDTTZ, Nov 19, 2008.

  1. WLDTTZ

    WLDTTZ URBAN LEGEND

    Hey dunno about pinging but it dose kick into saftey mode as it feels heaps lagy and slugish.

    The nosie dose go away as the reves rise but the noise is only there when the car gets hot.

    Thanks foir the help guys but im still not to sure on what it is I am guessing the heads as some of you state but any other ideas :confused:
     
  2. nemz

    nemz nemz cam: active

    your head is warped/cracked on the exhaust side, which is allowing exhaust gas to flow into your cooling system, over pressurizing it and forcing the hot coolant+exhaust gas to bubble out your overflow, i can guarantee if you take off your radiator cap and idle the car, the coolant will start bubbling out of the radiator then big bubbles will start popping out.

    ***also note this is likely to be the cause as to why you are also loosing power and car is running like a dog, as you are loosing compression out of some of the cylinders into the cooling system ^_^***

    if you decide to rebuild the engine, get new heads, and make sure the block is milled flat, but id recommend just getting a new reco'd engine, judging by the amount of times shes been over heated the damage will be fair, and ongoing problems are likely to occur even rebuilt

    my 2 cents
     
  3. WLDTTZ

    WLDTTZ URBAN LEGEND

    serious the block wouldent be able to be reused ?

    I figuerd that with the heads but yer :(
     
  4. nemz

    nemz nemz cam: active

    the block can be re used, but just make sure its machined, acid dipped and cleaned, some people will just whack on new heads and away she goes, and you will encounter the same problems after a period of time

    but i reckon it may be easier just buying a new reco'd engine and dropping it in, rebuilding can be a slow painful process where you encounter lots of problems, been theer done that :)
     
  5. WLDTTZ

    WLDTTZ URBAN LEGEND

    I would like to rebuild it tho hmm I will have to pull it apart and see what the machine shop says me thinks
     
  6. nemz

    nemz nemz cam: active

    yeh for sure :), just remember if you going to spend the money and the time doing it, just get it done properly and take the time to get it right and if a mechanic is going to rebuild it, keep an eye on it and make sure he is doing things the right way, plenty of people on here seek to advice from, if your not sure about anything he is doing, but also at the same time, give the mechanic the time to do it right also

    just like to add, why i advise a second hand or reco'd engine which hasnt been over heated, is because once metal is over heated and warped, even though it can be machined/milled flat again, in my opinion the metal will never be as strong as the initial manufacture, especially alloy, it can become very soft, the blocks are iron, so afaik iron is a little more rugged when it comes to this, but still

    also depends on how hot it actually got? did you drive the car to the point where it was steaming and off the dial? or was it just slight constant over heating?


    if any one else wants to add more onto this?
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2008
  7. WLDTTZ

    WLDTTZ URBAN LEGEND

    Is what my plan is to remove the engine remove the heads from the block then take the block and heads down to a machine shop and see what they say then get the parts and get them to build me up the heads and the bottom end then I just whack it back togethere.

    Or possibly just take them a stpiped down engine like just the block and heads (long block) get them to rebuild me a long block

    Cheers
     
  8. Z-FoX

    Z-FoX Overqualified Psychopath

    Ok, I wonder

    Well, not sure how close your problem is to mine but I just got it back from Dontex, I have no compression problems and no exhaust was detected in the coolant. I was told by Tektrader that it may be related to the EGR valve. Which I belive passes the exhaust gas back into the system.

    I decided to pump more fuel (Via Nistune) in at the rev range that the pinging occured to counter the lean condition. It stopped the pinging (and heat build up), can now drive around for an hour and a half without any problem, but the car still feels laggy and farty down low. Eventually it travels into the lean condition again. I fear if at that state I put the car back to a standard tune, I'd more than likely do some serious trauma.

    I was told by Dontex that removing the vaccuum hose connected to the EGR will be exactly the same as removing the device. I'll be doing that tomorrow to see how it goes.

    I'll let you know if I have any luck. You can look under Exhaust Gas Recirculation if you think it might be related. Hopefully no more pulling over to the side of the road while I wait for the car to cool down. :(
     

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