Hey I have a few questions regarding my TTZ I have a problem with the cooling side of things and I think I have a problem with coolant flow as all the hoeses/underplenum hoses and raditor have been replaced. I have replaced 2 thermostats and the water pump and she still over heats after about half hour of driving starting with a cold engine. I spoke with the bloke who did my exhaust and he recons its possible that my heads are craked. I know some of you will think im cruel when I say this but my TTZ has seen hot side of the gauge on at least a minimum of 15 times Also when driving it if it is cooking and I am looking for a place to pull over under load at low rpm's the engine will squeal like crazy untill the revs raise say over 3krpm. When she gets real hot smoke likes to come from the back side of the plenum and from behind the engine. Also when I switch my heater on it dosent seem to blow warm air so thats why I think I am having issues with the flow of coolant. Also cool air comes out my demister vents when I put the heater on Thanks for any help guys
didn't i once hear you say you did a heater core bypass? That explains that then. If it squeals maybe fan belt -ie waterpump ie loose belt/seazed water pump?
nah no bypass for me. The squel only comes when she gets real hot nd trust me it aint belts its metal grinding then the lifters get real loud at times to and soem times the engine wont rev under 2k rpm ?????? Thanks mike
One big over heat will kill a zed engine, 15 small ones will do the same thing, and from what you've said, 'id say your heads are rooted at best.
Thanks for the help but could some one explain how warped heads will cause a engine to over heat. I can see how it would make the engine lose power but over heat ? Also what would need to be done to the hears just machine them if salvageble ? Oh and it was liek 15 Massive over heatings lol
lol dude ok. Warped heads mean they're not mating with the block. Mean water galleries will just be pissing out coolant everywhere hence all the 'smoke' (steam, burning coolant) and ensuing overheated engine. Surely you must realise 15 big overheats will completely kill your engine, surely?
yer dont wory i was aware of that lol But the only water I could see comming out was from the overflow bottle when she boils up.
is there oil in your coolant? Well, whatever coolant may be left edit: you wouldn't see water coming from a blown headgasket, it all comes out as steam as the engine IS indeed very very hot. Especially if overheated also!
nah its purple smoke comming from the plenum the coolant well water i have been using for the last month goes a bit grey but its not oily or mucky it dose kind of smell like exhaust gas tho.
take a pic with you rad. cap off. So are you putting coolant in it or just water? I'm not sure what purple smoke means. Is it more black or more white?
yer it is oil umm as for the exhaust no not as purple lol but the exhaust smoke comes and goes and switches from left to right. Also once it kooked real bad I switched the engine of and smoke was still cumming out the exhaust
i hate to say it but your engine is probably cactus. Not only has it overheated 'BADLY' over 15 times you're loosing coolant and oil and you've kept running it more and more and as far as i know you're running water instead of coolant! billowing backpacks radioactive man!!
Warped (non sealing heads) can cause varying problems depending on what galleries / compartments are compromised.
Yer is it possible its just a blown gasket ? I will do a compression test soon to se what numbers I get. Thanks mike
could be 'just' a blown headgasket but seriously, step back and have a think about this (i'm not shit bagging you, i'm just trying to get you to look at this seriously). You overheated it BADLY OVER 15 TIMES AND KEPT DRIVING IT! I would not be surprised in the slightest if you've completely rooted the heads. If they're 'just' warped then i guess you could maybe get them skimmed and use a thicket head gasket but yeah. If you're competent in doing the headgasket yourself and don't wanna get the heads checked professionally (might as well while they're out) then give it a whirl.
Yes I knew driving it like this would kill it but I didnt care as I needed the car to get me to a course that I was doing that was hard to get into so I had to give it %110 even if it ment hurting my car lol. carrer vs car I thought bugger the car lol I was thinking of just buying a new engine to whak in while I am on holidays and eventualy rebuild this one but basicly I would just like to clarify that it isnt some thign stupid like a rap car or a blockage in the system ect. Will do a compression test soon. Thanks guys
Dude it sounds to me like the water pump is seizing up that explains the metallic squeeling sound it also explains the over heating What it means, is if there isn't enough flow, the water galleys within the engine will become 1 big local hot spot Your engine will be running WAY hot With minimal coolant flow, your water temp transmitter won't even be seeing the hot coolant, so if its registering "dam hot" then you can be sure it's even dam hotter in reality in your engine compared to a cooling system where the diagnostics can function properly (temp sensor can SEE the coolant because of flow) Change your water pump and see how the engine runs after that
Does this occur...? Question, when your car is cold, does it drive well (normal), and after say your half hour does it start to get pinging at low revs/light load? Does it start to feel farty/airy/spongy at those low revs, which can be relieved by gunning it?
Yes I have replaced the water pump and this problem still occurs. I have also replaced thermostat then it went so i replaced it again that one went so now in not running one now.
