If you have NRMA/RACV/RACQ membership Call them up and get them to send a battery van out to you. The operators have state of the art electronic testers that will tell you on the spot if your battery is stuffed or not. They can even replace it with the appropriate battery if needed. Easy as! I do this on weekends (NRMA batteries) and you'd be surprised how many people drive around for MONTHS with a battery that goes flat every 2-3 days, yet they don't think to change it. A battery is like any other wearable part on a car, it will only last a finite length of time. Anyway like I said don't stuff around get it tested and save yourself any further headaches.
Bad Wiring Well.. the car battery is fine. I went to start it yesterday and the car went crazy (and wouldnt start). describing what happens is kinda challenging :wacko:. When the key is turned on to start the car at first nothing happened. Then the lights on the dash started flashing, the tacho started flickering and the relay (this time i know its the relay) started buzzing. Some other noises from inside the dash too.. After ceasing, the alarm light flashes every few seconds which ive never seen and cant be turned off unless the car is put back into acc. At the same time the alarm light flashes i can hear a clicking from inside the passenger door??.. Slamming the driver door seems to cure it. The battery is fully charged so im assuming i have a bad wiring problem with my ignition. I think i need to crack the ignition open and take a look how its been wired. im sure ill find some loose cables somewhere. no big problem. So long as the starter moter is ok. :thumbsup:
That is a BAD assumption to make It is quite possible for the battery to show 12.5v and not have enough current to start the car. Or it could have dead/shorted cells or it could be open circuit... Just test the battery as I suggested! Or if that's not an option try another battery (not jump start) but fit another battery that you KNOW to be good and see if it solves your problem. The noises you hear are relays. So far everything you've described is symptomatic of a dud battery. Here's a link on how to test your battery if you have a multimeter HERE One day I'll put all that info in a proper article...
Broken plate in the battery As per above posts Will cause this problem,even if fully charged.Also as per Zed4life`s post When they fit alarm systems they some times brake the back of the ignition switch ,Its a real bastard to fix After. Ignition on should light up dash indicators <Turn on Lights does this alter things ,If so battery or main wiring is at fault.You will loose lights.
Any battery shop will load test the batt for you for free... As Rob260 and CBZX said, batteries can show 12+ volts but have no amperage to start car. You need a load balance test to remove 'surface charge' and see what the real state of battery is. Also, I'd get them to disconnect the + batt cable then place a multimeter in circuit between battery positive terminal and positive cable to see if you have a circuit draining battery power... LED's etc use up almost nothing...
