seriously stuck lifters >>

yesterday I got around to removing the lifters that had only done 8,000Km and were playing some "rap tap tap" at any rpm. I thought that maybe they were fully pumped up and were clogged and hence couldn't relieve any pressure inside them but that wasn't the case as I could blow air right throught the lifter. What it ended up being is the piston that pokes out the bottom of the lifter was very seized in the bore it slides up and down. So much so I had to put the lifters in the vice to free them up. I ground the top corner of the lifter off to see inside the lifter to see all this.

Has anyone had really bad sticking lifters? When the car was started the first time after the rebuild Emmanuel from Amec said the engine nearly overheated and had to be shutdown before the 20 minute cam run-in was completed. I'm wondering if this excessive heat on startup had heated the oil up enough to varnish the oil onto the lifters and made them seize.

 

this shouldn't happen...

I have been told that even if they are empty or been sitting for a very long time that initial start up should pump oil right through them. I guess if there is hydraulic oil in a part of it (can't remember have to look at tech again) then that should be refilled before reinstallation.

Have you seen the tech article on tt.net? A lot say to just follow that as opposed to buying new ones. You can actaully dismantle the entire lifter by the looks of it just by hitting it with a hammer.

 

I've got new cams so new lifters are needed. I'd never put new cams in

with old lifters. I tried pulling the lifters apart but they are too seized.

 

I have never heard of that happening before.. how long were they sitting

for?

 

Wow, I have seen an engine where the oil was so thick it took ages to drain the sump. But the cake was taken when I pulled the rocker covers off.

The whole inside was coated with this thick thick vegemite crap it was everywhere over all the bolt heads, cam runners.

It was so thick I had to scrape out the head bolts before I could push the allen key in them.

BUT the lifters where still good !! Did you run synthetic in it? or Mineral oil?

Seems odd that a short term overheat could be a problem

 

Not the case

The car nearly overheated. "Nearly" as in it just started to creep past half so it was shut down before the 20 minutes was completed to be cautious. Anyone would have shut down the new motor if they saw the heat starting to rise. Extensive overheating could cause the oil to varnish the lifters, the oil would have to get to the point where it boils and lost its properties for it to do so.

It was a brand new motor which means large amounts of friction is in there, depending on what clearances your engineer set when building the motor.

It's never a good idea to put lifters in a vice to free them up if you plan on using them again.

Amec

 

lifters

what do they look like inside. do you have any pix

 

Send the lifters back to the supplier

they will tell you if they were primed with oil
on assembly of heads prior to starting the motor.

 

seems to be a most sensible suggestion ....

 

Yet again you tell lies >>

Obviously didn't learn not to tell fibs after being caught out about the experience with the Dayco. See here if you forgot what I'm talking about

I remember distinctly (cause I was pretty pissed off with what you had done) that you said you ran the engine till you realised the needle on the temp gauge reach just before H (hot) mark. I told you at the time that it was way too late to switch the motor off when the temp gauge gets that far. This was on the day you were supposed to call me before starting the car which you didn't. Then when I went to take the car for a test drive you would remember that I said the steering is not correct as it was hard to turn and notchy to which you replied it was just the power steering pump that needed to get some air out it.

You were prepared to let the car go for a test drive but luckly I wasn't going to drive it like that with shit steering and I openned the bonnet and found for myself that you hadn't connected the steering shaft properly to the steering rack. Mind you this was after telling me that morning you came in easly to double check every bolt - that must have been bullshit cause I could see the steering shaft wasn't seated properly just looking from above the engine bay.

Would you like me to continue with more ....

(btw Do you really think I'm that stupid to put lifters in a vice and then use them again in the engine.)

 

Lifters were ok to start with as they were all checked prior to being

put in the engine. One lifter had to be replaced as it would not "pump up". It could also be due to the oil being contaminated with thread tape that Amec stupidly put on all AN/JIC/ threads. Only pipe and tapered threads need thread tape - not bloody flare seated threads like AN/JIC.

 

Amec you got owned! :thumbsdown: to you!

 

You think I lied about the belt thing?

I think you're the one that's getting lied to. I came across a problem and confirmed it with other qualified mechanics. I have no reason to lie about the belt thing, we use nothing but genuine Nissan belts and I was informing this forum for their own good. I think you are the one that has been lied to. We still stand by what we find and are currently investigating the same problem with another Zed and if you don't believe us, why don't you give Barry a call back and ask him? Go on, give him a call and tell us what he says to you. Or are you too scared to be wrong in front of everyone here? Yet again.

Think about this for a second, why would I bother doing that? I think you're just looking for an excuse to blame us again.

As for the sealant on the thread, are you trying to say that you know better than qualified mechanics, LP gas fitters, aviation technicians, plumbers and mobile hose manufacturers and fitters? Big call. Sorry, what qualifications do you have again? I can't seem to recall right now. Refresh my memory why don't you.

Sorry but I feel that I have been personally attacked by none other than you many times and I think that I should stand up for myself and my business instead of standing back and taking the blame (and losing customers aswell) due to someone else overlooking a 10mm bolt.

 

who overlooked the 10mm bolt?

You make it sound like it was nothing to do with your company. Was it not one of your staff and hence your responsability or an outside party that did this?


Cant say that comment would win you many points here if it was one of your employees as you should be responsible for everything that goes on with a car in your workshop. Seems every mechanic these days are no care, no responsability and no liability. Apologies if thats not the case.

 

Re - 10mm bolt

The engineer (that the owner organised)who built the engine overlooked the 10mm bolt. The engine came to us complete on a pallet and all we did was install the supplied product.

Amec

 

I guess you don't get out much, there are some people who are 10 times

brighter and more switched on when it comes to the following professions you mentioned, these people work in totally unrelated fields and yet, know more than the rest of us. Engine building isn't rocket science, anyone can do it. There is an art to it, i.e. clearances, machine work, specs etc obviously, ane even the best get it wrong sometimes.

Thread tape shouldn't be used on oil/fuel/n2o fittings, you should use it in liquid form so if it does happen to get into the system it can break down easily and not jam anything up. But don't listen to me, I am not a qualified aviation technician.

I would leave that up to you though, if you would take someones word for it just because of their qualification, then do so. There are MANY incidents which can support this so just think about it seriously if you like to decision make that way.

 

what bolt exactly are you talking about?

 

Typical pig headed mechanic who was is unable to read >>>

In response to this:

For your interest my qualifications are
1) Bach. Electrical Engineering
2) Bach. Information Technology
3) Fiberglassing TAFE certificate
4) Advanced Fiberglassing TAFE certificate
I work closely with one friend on my car who has these qualifications
1) Electrical Mechanic
2) Electrical Fitter
3) Steam Technician
4) Sterilizing Specialist

I'm not saying I know better than qualified mechanics but I am saying that I know and have dealt with more AN/JIC fittings than you ever had which is evident by you putting thread tape on 37 degree flared seat fittings.

I noticed you made no comment about the steering not being connected properly. If that's a qualified mechanic at work then I really wonder why you haven't had your qualifications revoked with that sort of shit work going on. Imagine the shit you'd be in if I was injured from you not connecting the steering up correctly.

I've already had several talks to Dayco and have personally talked to Barry Stanford and he is very pissed off with Amec and your lies. I've arranged with

Since you are obviously lacking some reading comprehension I'll repost here where Barry Stanford from Dayco says you are lying about how long you spent with him. He was pissed off when he turned up and got the cold shoulder from you saying that you didn't have time for the Dayco rep as you were too busy.

Notice nothing I've posted in this thread has mentioned anything to do with the bolt left in the auto tensioner.

 

At the end of the day while AMEC builds a National Championship winning car

your car STILL sits in 1000 hpc coated pieces. Are you EVER going to get that car running?

 

Feel free at any time to invite the AMEC built race car to sprint challenge

at a racetrack of your choice and prepare to be handed your ass on a plate.