Dash Repair

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Shane001, Nov 24, 2015.

  1. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    So I need to do some repairs on my dash. I've done a search and there are a few threads on this, but some of them are quite old and don't cover all the repairs I need to do. So I figure start a new thread and bring this all up to date and in one place :)

    So the general concensus for the dash padding behind the vents under the window is Sikaflex 227 Black. Any recommendations for anything better than this?

    This thread has some good info on reinforcing sections of the dash with fibreglass sheets.
    http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305406

    I also want to 'glue' the metal screw clips in place, the ones that fit into the square holes. It seems these have a tendency to crack the surrounding plastic when you tighten screws due to their moving and twisting in their square hole. I figure if these can be fixed in place there will be less tendency to crack. Anyone have any recommendations on what would be best to use here?

    There are a couple of cracks in a couple of parts of the plastic, where the plastic is still intact but just split. What would be best to fill and 'fuse' these cracks?

    Finally I need to cut one of the mounting tabs off another dash and 'weld' / glue onto my better dash. I'll probably use a dremel to cut this tab off both to get a clean cut, what would be best to fix this back together? The tab in question is the one in the middle, bottom that mounts to the top of the transmission tunnel. I'll probably cut this where it's bent.

    Thanks guys :zlove:
     
  2. pmac

    pmac Z,, IT'S COMPLICATED!!!!!

    Sikaflex is your friend!

    Sikaflex 227 or 255, (a bit stronger) for all your flexible parts.
    Araldite on your screws if you want them to be permanent.
    Your dash bracket will probably have to be welded if your going to cut it and butt it to the support, need to see a photo of the offending article really. You could fab a new bracket and rivet/screw it together.
     
  3. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    Hi pmac, it's not so much a bracket, it's the plastic tab in the centre that is screwed to the top of the transmission tunnel. How do you 'weld' plastic? Gonna have to do a google ;)

    I don't want to glue the screws in place, just the metal tabs that the screws screw into. Think I might have some araldite, might try on the dash I'll be scrapping first, see how well it works.

    Cheers.
     
  4. pmac

    pmac Z,, IT'S COMPLICATED!!!!!

    By the way, sikaflex can be your enemy too. The stuff sticks to everything everywhere even when your sure that you never went near that particular area, it has the potential to ruin a good interior. Prepsol is a good remover. If you need to smooth it out use a strong mix of dish washing liquid or CRC on your finger.
     
  5. tzpark

    tzpark Custom User Title

    Plastic Welding:
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Urethane-Supply-Co-Model-5700HT-Mini-Weld-Model-7-Airless-Plastic-Welder-/351114187991
    or
    http://www.bunnings.com.au/tradeflame-plastic-welding-accessory-kit_p5910355

    I have been planning to get a 5700ht to fix the scrapes under my front scoop but have to build up some WAF first.
    Anyone tried the Bunnings kit?
     
  6. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    Actually I've been checking out some youtube clips on just using your run of the mill soldering iron. Going to give this a go probably on the weekend.
     
  7. michandy

    michandy Active Member

    Yeah

    Yes you can use a soldering iron :) I find a bit of plastic, from an area where I can cut it from, to use as a filler for the welding
     
  8. tzpark

    tzpark Custom User Title

    How did it go?

     
  9. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    Sorry, haven't had time to even think about it :(
     
  10. Tektrader

    Tektrader Z32 Hoe, service me baby

    Shane, if you go to the hobby shop and get a bottle of Cyno-acrylate and some Kicker ( to make the super glue go off quick).

    Then, back up the busted bits with woven strand fibreglass matting hit with the cyno. You can build up the plastic parts really well and so strong they wont ever break again.
     
  11. STocKi

    STocKi Member

    Hi all, Sorry for intruding here but I didnt want to start a new thread as I'm also looking at fixing my dash over the Xmas break and just wanted to ask a couple of Q's

    My dash is 'peeling' or 'curling' at the windscreen air vents and I've read this
    http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.309 but unsure of which epoxy to use or if you guys know of a better adhesive for the job.

    Sikaflex 227 seems to be the norm here right?
     
  12. stumagoo

    stumagoo Active Member

    yep any of the urethane type automotive adheasives. 227 255 etc
     
  13. STocKi

    STocKi Member

    Cheers Stu :) so same process with the wood clamping it down etc.. and you'd say the sickaflex will be heat resistant? cos it gets particularly warm in the cabin. Do you know which one is better.. 227 or 225?
     
  14. stumagoo

    stumagoo Active Member

    one is sealant the other adhesive go the adhesive one (255 I think) its designed to hold windscreens in so it will do the job, it has on mine - I however had my winscreen out when I did mine and used G clamps and wood
     
  15. ZX_DORIFT

    ZX_DORIFT ENGINEER

    This pours on with very low viscosity filling cracks. Sets quickly (1/2hr) and is very strong (You can make tools with it). Similar material to the front and rear bumper bars which are a more flexible grade of the same thing. You can tack parts down before pouring. Tint whatever colour etc.
    [​IMG]
     
  16. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    Having done it I actually do have a recommendation about those square hole screw clips. A big glob of sikaflex into each hole then stick the clip in. I did that to a whole bunch of mine and it worked a bloody treat - solid as all hell and way better than stock. I'll be doing it again to my new dash, worked really well.
     
  17. syntax_X

    syntax_X Zed Head

    I think 227 glue would not be ideal for this application.
    On a hot day it would give out. Doesn't penetrate thru the foam much ect.

    Speaking of hot days, wait for one and put the zed in the sun, it softens the dash, squirt some silicon in there then jam a few pool noodles on top. Done!
     
  18. STocKi

    STocKi Member

    I'll be removing my dash within the next 4 days ( needs to be done before work begins ) will be looking at your method :)

    I will be trying sikaflex 252 - straight adhesive
     

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