1990 aus delivered Z. Had play in the passenger side suspension ( front ). Changed the top link bushes, Nismo. Purchased new King Pin bearings and seals from Coz. Fitted the bearings and bushes, put the link assembly back together. No more play in the top link assembly. All good so far. Give the wheel a tug from top and bottom, still got play between the bottom of the third link and the Knuckle. WTF. I also noticed the gap between the third link and knuckle on the passenger side is a bit more than the drivers side. This was like this before I changed the bearings. The bearings are driven home properly. The king pin has no wear marks. I have done some reading on our American cousins web site and have found other people with the same problem on the same side. I would have thought that there should be no top to bottom play in the King Pin assembly. Any thoughts, Driving me nuts!
There should be no overt play I would automatically say that the bearings are not driven home properly but you discount this....so its a bit of a mystery......I suggest putting up pictures if you can (with appropriate measurements) JC
King pin removed from steering knuckle and placed into third link on my bench and torqued to specs. I can grab the knuckle end of the king pin and move it sideways in the knuckle and get play. Almost like the bearing has sideways play. ( inner race to outer race play ).
That's a really strange problem! Doesn't make sense unless its not in properly or the wrong part/s? I would ask Coz direct on this and wait for his response He's a handy resource when you potentially have issues with products - I reckon he can get you back on the right track - not much he doesn't know about fitting issues! (Because its a very strange problem you have!)
Does it seem loose when its at the extremes or just when its straight ahead? Reason I asked, If the rack isn't centred properly It actually can rotate past the point where it is supposed to go. But only on one side. This essentially looks like its loose. Come back with your observations and I will elaborate. BTW I would never change a KING PIN bearing. I would always replace the entire wish bone and wheel bearing assembly off a wreck. Way easier, quicker and cheaper. I have only ever seen a handful of King Pin bearings flogged out.
He has it out on the bench...disconnected....apparently the actual bearing races have play? (has to be wrong part or not seated right - certainly a strange issue to have)
Problem solved. My mate came over today (Superbike Mechanic ) and we went about delving deeper into the problem. The bottom bearing should be pressed home firm. The top bearing when pressed in, should have a gap between the top of the outer race and the top of its housing being 2.5mm +or- 0.2mm according to the FSM. This + or - 0.2mm sets the pre-load for the bottom bearing. King pin too tight lightly tap the top bearing outer race down. Too loose tap the top bearing outer race up. This is somewhat fiddly but the right way to do it. King pin is now spot on and the gap between the third link and Knuckle is right. A lesson for young players. Too bad the FSM did not explain this in more detail. Just goes to show, never to old to learn something. A big thanks to my mate Bruce!...
