Copper plated turbo lock nuts, opinions?

Discussion in 'Technical' started by ryzan, Aug 28, 2014.

  1. ryzan

    ryzan Moderator Staff Member

    So I read about these ages ago, supposed to be a good alternative to using locking tabs. What if any downside do they have? Are they not used from factory because locking tabs are cheaper?
     
  2. Speedyblue

    Speedyblue Some Bloke

    As in cone nuts? Not sure about the copper coating though.
     
  3. Madcow

    Madcow Active Member

    I have found the cone ones to damage the thread.

    The copper ones I found rounded easy.

    Tabs I find work best.
     
  4. Martin Williams

    Martin Williams Well-Known Member

    I use flange nuts and loctite on my track car turbo and have no issues removing them. BUT this may be because I am having to remove them on a regular basis (not by choice)
     
  5. syntax_X

    syntax_X Zed Head

    What temp is loctite rated to? Turbo exhaust housings get pretty hot.
     
  6. Fists

    Fists Well-Known Member

    I used some http://www.disc-lock.com/stainless-steel-washer and they seem to be holding stuff together, only had them on about 3 months though. Also, because they're kinda bulky if you have five-bolt dump pipes they'll make one of the bolts foul on the steering column. They do make removing the nuts a fair bit harder, might be an issue if you let them seize on.

    Make sure you get get the stainless ones though, I thought I had the stainless ones but turned out they were the 1010 steel and the chrome coating comes off pretty quick with a little heat.
     
  7. Martin Williams

    Martin Williams Well-Known Member

    350degC, and need good tools to remove
     
  8. tassuperkart

    tassuperkart Its a lie I tell you!

    Ive used copper nuts on turbo dumps in the past and slowly but surely the threads pull out due to the copper going soft when very hot and the nuts require retightening regularly.

    Friction locking nuts turbo and manifolds as mentioned, can sometimes result in a lot of tears and frustration when the friction method works too well and tears the thread off or the studs snap off when loosening.
    Ask me how i know.
    Extra thick plain washers and spring washers work for me.

    E
     
  9. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    Tas, do you use an anti seize compound?

    Not looking forward to revisiting this issue on the zed. My first racecar, turbo Supra, the turbo housing bolts were forever coming loose. We tried multiple different bolt types, including those little lock washers, but in the end all we could do was retighten after each event and change bolts regularly.

    In the end I think what was happening was the bolts were actually stretching with the turbo running red hot for 10-20mins at a time, then when the turbo cooled the stretch remained, resulting in a loose fitting bolt.
     
  10. ryzan

    ryzan Moderator Staff Member

    Yeah, was going to avoid all copper nuts for that reason, was looking at the steel nuts that have been copper plated.
     
  11. tassuperkart

    tassuperkart Its a lie I tell you!

    Ahhh, my bad, I misread the post sry

    Id probably be just using staino nuts M8. The stock ones appear to be staino. Im sure they are on the Ute Of Death. They dont ever rust and are black.

    Shane
    No, used nothing on them M8.
    However, i do use turbo flange and dump gaskets if thats any help. I used to run without them and spent a lot of time doing up loosening nuts and im guessing youre exactly right with the stretching thing.

    E
     
  12. ryzan

    ryzan Moderator Staff Member

    Yeah figure I'll probably stick with locking tabs for now and be done with it. This engine probably won't be in the car for very long anyway.
     
  13. Madcow

    Madcow Active Member

    Tabs plus spring washers. Can't go wrong.
     

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