On the dyno it was low on power as mentioned to where it should be, even for an auto. Your car is 5 speed manual right? Autos drag a little more power and an auto engine has slightly less power also. Auto's have 1mm more lift on the inlet cams and slightly bigger turbine housing for more flow. This can be seen as raised numbers on the front of the turbine housing near the flange .63 for manuals and .54 for auto. Nissan quote an extra 20hp, although likely to be more at higher boost. In saying that when I first started racing my zed we built a stock motor with auto turbo's and cams, lots of tricks and mods including adjustable cam gears and made 287rwkw with octane booster. With your engine Marcus injectors were not maxed out and yes we could make richer although didn't reduce pinging much. It also didn't like much timing. Suggest comp test first and check valve timing, if all good then check injectors, may have one a little lazy. Could also check exhaust for partly blocked cat or muffler, although it didn't seem to have symptoms of this. Hope this helps.
Timing wheel? What's that - is that the same thing used to dial cams with adjustable gears? If it was pinging on the dyno im guessing UAS would've already checked base timing... Not sure exactly how Rob but I have know a few guys that it's happened to... even more so those who run no cats and have tuned there cars like that and then had to put cats in...
Lift is the same . Duration is 240 for auto and 248 for manual The 20 hp difference is the combination of .54 housing and 240 duration . .
Thanks Matt. I guess it's possible. Not having done the work myself and not know much about the technical side of reconditioning a motor, I'm restricted to guessing/brainstorming and then making a list to work through. I think a compression test at this stage would be an obvious first step though. Anyone got a compression tester and know how to do it properly ?
My old zed with an auto engine and 5 speed box made like 130rwkw on 6 psi with a tooth out on the belt, as soon as it was fixed it made 177. Then on 13.5 psi is made 213rwkw.
Fairly comparable to what mine is doing at the moment.....a little low but not disgraceful. It could be just a combination of a few small things.....old fuel pump, cats not great, injectors not as good as they used to be.?
Comp tester wont help you in working out your ratio... Firstly check base timing is at 15* and check TPS is at the 0.45v or near enough. If injectors are stock standard 20 year old items maybe have them cleaned and flowed for good measure - you will definitely notice a huge difference in the overall performance. Whats the specs on your exhaust standard, cat back??? Comes down to ignition timing and fuel supply... checking your base timing would be the first and easiest thing to do - also what plugs you running? Stick to the standard plugs at 1.1 gap.
Not suprising tbh, guys in the US have trapped 124MPH on stock manual turbos. Probably around 450rwhp.
TPS is 0.44 so that's ok. Timing is 15 (ECUTalk) but never had a light put on it. I'm thinking, if I'm going to go to the trouble of pulling the injectors at some point maybe I should just get a new set a size larger...thoughts?. Plugs are just coppers with 1.1 gap. Don't know much about the exhaust, came on the car when I bought it. All I know is its aftermarket (at least at the back) and it's old. I'll try to get a photo later.
Forward plan how many ponies you are wanting to achieve in the long run. Let that guide you on injector size/vs cleaning and checking the stock ones. Isn't there an easy ratio, something like 1cc injector per rwhp???? ie want 500rwhp, then you need 500cc or larger injectors????
Generally injectors in good condition can handle 1rwhp per cc, however going past 85% duty cycle isn't recommended.
Hi Marcus -ECU talk will always show 15* base timing but you need to physically verify this using a timing light. Can you hear the cats rattling if you rev the car in neutral?
Out of all the options listed that's probably the easiest one to inspect -most a/market systems have a flange at the cats. May as unbolt and check them out...
Thanks Rob, job for the weekend......better start getting some Inox on those bolts.......probably been there since the beginning of time
I'll only ever be running stock turbos on this car so HP goals are modest. From what I've heard, stock injectors can be approaching 100% in some stock builds when boost is up around 15-16psi (correct me if I'm wrong). I guess my goals would be to run this level of boost safely. If this is the case I think it would be worth moving up a size.
Thanks John, yes I'll be checking base timing, compression and cats first since these are relatively easy. If this doesn't give me much information I'll look at injectors and then cam timing (being the hardest).
Heres some more information. Back when this was done, I had: Stock Manual TT Heads with NA Block (don't know why, wasn't me) Stock Turbos Stock Injectors & Fuel System Japtek SMICs 2.5" Exhaust HKS EVC4 EBC Nistune My compression wasn't so hot, I think worst was Cylinder 6 with ~130, rest were 140-150. This one was after it was tuned @ 1.1 Bar (15.95 PSI). This one was at the 'daily' 1 Bar (14.7 PSI)... I also challenge anyone to show me a flatter boost line. ...I miss my Jordan. :'( MoulaZX
