Hey guys I found this tech article. but my god there is no way he undid that bolt just using that t-bar. plus his exhaust is dented for more access. HOW DO I DO IT can *almost* get a socket extension on there but it doesnt sit properly. and theres no way i can get something on the other side to stop the bolt and nut spinning together. any ideas or tricks here im missing?
What size drive is your socket? If you use a 1/4 inch drive with a long extension and maybe a knuckle it might help Is your starter motor removed?
Isnt that one a 13mm? I can get it with a long extention and a fixed bar. Usually without any issues.
14mm I have on mine. I just used a 14mm long socket on a 300mm extension with the breaker bar. The length clears the pipe work fine for swing access and the socket sat about 90-95% square to the flange. Have you an aftermarket exhaust already on? Might be made differently to Oem. When I had weld up my new stainless exhaust I had no dramas either. Oh and I have also had the stud come out also along with the tight nut. Just remove the whole lot and put back on properly once the pipe works out. To save the nut from rounding. Get yourself a single hex socket. I've had to use them in tight nuts on exhausts before. Cheap headfuk insurance.
they are n-power dumps so I think the bolts are positioned slightly rotated. How did you stop the nut at the back from spinning with the bolt? just put anything on there that would wedge when you try to undo the bolt? Ive tried with my 14mm socket, 300m extension and breaker bar but the extension fouls on the underside of the car and exhaust so I cant get it to sit straight. I need to replace the cat as this is what the whole job is for.. I might just bolt it all back up and pay the 300 ish quote he wanted for one side with cat. zzz
You need a 3/8" drive setup, with a single hex flex-socket (wobble-socket) and youll be grinning. 1/2" drive stuff is best left for farm machinery and trucks. E
yep gonna give the wobble extension bar a go. (its the one thing i asked for christmas and didnt receive haha) ill let you know how I go.
3/8" blows, snapped too many of them undoing bolts on the Zed. Now 1/2" and 3/4" is where it's at. Last time I did those bolts I soaked the crap out of them with WD40 to loosen them up (they were stock and rusted to shit). Used extension and wobble bars and a decent 1/2" drive socket set on it.
you need to buy better quality tools you shouldn't be snapping 3/8" tools working on the zed. 3/4" is just crazy
17 years of rust on the bolts says otherwise... 3/4" is what I use for the giant bolts/nuts, e.g. the ones that hold your hub onto the rear axel. For most stuff 1/2" works a treat and if need be I also have all the rattle gun versions. And no I don't put my standard bits on the rattle gun.. 3/8" is kids stuff.
I have just removed my entire exhaust to replace the Rear extension housing gear box seal, I soaked the nuts in Penetrene overnight ( Austral Chemical Co. Sth Melbourne Vic Ph. 69051520) I have used this product to UN-ceaze piston rings in the past. I also had to tap a 13mm X1/2 " socket onto the rusted rounded nuts to get a secure fit, after removal i then made the nut good on the bench grinder but should have just bought 6 new nuts, quite cheap they are, and do a hard job under extreme heat conditions. You may need the 300mm extension bar + a universal joint socket if the exhaust pipe intrudes on your access. I did not have nuts on the top side of the exhaust studs so they all released freely
You HAVE to be kidding M8.... surely! There is no way you can break a 3/8" drive stuff unless you are buying cheap garbage and putting extensions onto the ratchet handle in which case you get what you pay for and what you deserve. 1/2" and 3/4 FFS....Baaahahahahahahaha!!!!!!. E
Snap-on and Warren & Brown to name two make 100 ft.lbs 3/8 drive torque wrenches. On that basis you would expect a good 3/8 drive extension to handle well over 100 ft.lbs. I recently used a 3/8 Kincrome wobble extension as a 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor with a 600 mm breaker bar to remove some stubborn wheel lock nuts. I reckon it handled well over 100 ft.lbs. It took that much effort that I was expecting the wheel studs to snap. Normally I would have used a 1/2 drive for that job however the tool I had for removing wheel lock nuts without a key was 3/8 drive.
When you are ready to put down the kids toys and start working on your zed properly give me a call. I'd like to see you remove the nut on the rear axel connecting to your hub (36mm nut) with a 3/8" drive. 17 years of use tends to lock those bastards on. End of the day I'd rather have my 1/2" and 3/4" gear knowing it will work, stand up to a ridiculous amount of torque and just keep on going. If you are happy with your 3/8" gear that's fine, keep using it. I've invested in my kit knowing I can tackle a wide range of work without having to mess around.
A rattle gun on the old rusted on parts is where its at. Applying 5 biceps of torque while busting a nut is old school.
went and got a kinchrome 3/8 wobble set on special for 50 bucks from toolmart. got the bolt off in 10 seconds. turns out the gaskets I bought dont fit though.. 2.5inch on the inside, way off on the outside.
Errrrmmm....... oooohhhkaaayy, Ill fill you in here so you know what your dealing with. Dual trades in aircraft maintenance engineering and motor mechanics with over 40 years experience along with earthmoving equipment and heavy trucks (owner/driver)..... I have a reasonable working knowledge of appropriate tools for what jobs so I dont believe Ill need to call on your "experience" any time soon. Run along now Brutus! You have threads to strip.:rofl::rofl::rofl: E
