Turbo water line

Hey guys, I found a coolant leak and it's coming from the passenger side turbo water line.

There is a rubber line in the middle of two hard pipes. The piece of rubber line that has been used in between the two hard lines is way too long. It has a massive kink in it because it is way too long and as a result, has split.

I'm having all sorts of dramas reaching either end of the rubber line to remove it.

Any ideas or is this a plenum/dump pipe off job?

Really sick of this car. Great birthday ripping the shitbox apart due to a pissy line that shouldn't be on there in the first place -.- lol

 

Battery out, Plenum on, second person assisting can be helpful too

 

My battery is relocated so hopefully it's not too bad!

 

There is no hard line in the middle of mine. Just a hose between the two hard lines like this:


hard line connected to turbo > hose that is kinked because it's too long > hard line to head.

The hose that has been used is too long and has kinked completely, now there's a pin hole in it and water is pissing out.

I can touch each clamp on either end of the hose with my hand by going behind the motor where the battery generally sits, but I can't get pliers in there to open the clamps up, and they're way too hard to clamp together with my fingers.

Any ideas?

 

Got it done today.

For anyone considering this job, go to supercheap and get 5 things:

Extra long needle nose pliers
Extra long needle nose pliers with a bend in them (these were a god send)
1 meter of 8mm ID heater hose
1 decent quality hose clamp
1 extra long screwdriver

I used the stock squeeze hose clamp on the top water line, but couldn't get it over the bottom end of the line for the life of me, maybe the outer diameter of the hose I got was too thick.

It is very difficult to slide your hand past the hard pipe at the back of the engine and between the firewall. My hand is bruised and swollen, so to minimise the amount of times you need to do this, get a small paint brush and once you're putting the lines back on, paint the hard lines with a small amount of oil and paint the inside of the heater hose with it, too. This will ensure that it's 100x easier to get the stubborn hose onto the fittings.

I also recommend every time you slide your hand between the firewall and the hard line that you run it under the hose to help it slip through. The first 50 or so times I tried it, the top of my hand ended up with the skin rubbed off it just from the firewall, then I switched to lubing my hand up, haha.

Once I had the right tools, the job was made a lot easier. It turns out that my car wasn't actually bypassed, I just couldn't see the middle hard line.

I just left the hard line there, getting to the brackets would be a mission and a half. With the right pliers, I had the top hose disconnected within a few minutes and then it went a lot smoother.