I suggest you re-read your previous statements, which have already been pointed out to you as being interpreted the same way as Ben did by another member. I AGREE that forged internals for the relatively small extra cost should be done during a rebuild, and this is why I myself have gone down this path. However you didn't mention the long term reliability of benny's 320rwkw initially...you just stated how "sceptical" you are about the "accuracy" of his "claimed" figures. Can you really not understand why Ben became defensive?
I was being challenged by Emile, to "explain" Benny's 320rwkw figures(not my responsibility to explain)and, as I have no idea what mods Benny has in his car, and as Emile is using Benny's car as a comparative argument for his projected results on a "stock" engine build, I am quite correctly skeptical of the whole hypothetical discussion.
Looks the goods mate. Although, as others have highlighted, I'd go for a forged piston and H rod combo over the stock replacements, if your smart, costs won't be much more, if at all. I would also price up to add valve stem seals in there as well. It's all apart and they are relatively cheap. Maybe also look at an ARP bolt set as well for head and mains. Do these 2 additional things and your ready for bolt on mods in the future without concern for an internal right-off. I also love the way that such a good technical thread can dissolve into a shit fight so easily...god people get so offended over nothing. :rofl:
Valve stem seals come in the Nissan rebuild gasket kit from COZ IIRC. I'd go the forgies, it's only another $1k or so over just new rings. Do it right the first time
good to see you making more friends chili lol OP, it'll only set you back an extra 200-400 for forged pistons so you'd be crazy not to get them, even if it means a few more weeks of saving.
It will not do 300rwkw with those mods, and if it got anywhere near that then yes there would be stress on the engine, either rebuild it stock for the usual 230 rwkw. or get some forged pistons and aim for 275 approx rwkw. There are alot of forum members lately focusing on Bens dyno number as if they are all going to be able to do it. Thats one member who has done that power level with those turbos. There are probably a dozen guys with RS cores or GT28R turbos in the area of 280kw.
Thats the consensus I'm getting so far. If indeed the forged pistons and rods are just a few hundred more, that'll be the plan. To hit that 280 or 290 number, are there other engine internals I should be aiming to upgrade? i.e some other components that should be upgraded to 'forged' other then pistons / rods? MoulaZX
Yep, I'm leaning strongly towards that. I was planning on slowly accumulating parts over 4 months, but might just be saving some cash over those 4 months, then probably add a week or two of saving to get a 'complete rebuild kit' with those forged internals =) MoulaZX
Can someone explain the significance of the Cometic head gaskets? This one $1900 /w Cometic Head Gaskets This one $1800 w/o Cometic Head Gaskets MoulaZX
What is it? Just different aftermarket head gasket? Any performance / safety reason for them? MoulaZX
They are metal gaskets for high hp builds. If the block is not prepared correctly then they can leak so people prefer to go with the OEM head gaskets as they have proven to still be fine for 500hp+ builds without the potential risks. For your goals and build OEM head gaskets should be fine. Something I didn't do with my build due to only finding out after...was to put N/A oil squirters as they have a better spray to suit the wiseco pistons which helps lubricate the cylinder walls better.
I was under the impression the stock internals were fine for 500-600 hp (depending on who you ask). I agree the old stressed internal probably aren't but a rebuilt OEM motor is supposed to be quite strog, as long as its tuned well. I'm not disagreeing that forged internals are a better way to go (and I believe OEM parts are as expensive/more expensive than aftermarket forged parts anyway). I'm just curious as advice I'v been given was that 300-350 rwkw would be no problem for a stock internal engine.
that advice is way wrong, certain stock components may be used for high power levels but its not advisable. stock pistons will let go way before then as some of us have found out.......
Also just some quite info for high flow or ATR25s. We've been using the RS spec wheels for quite some time now. I personally don't see any issues for them making 320rwkws as a twin. I think their limit with 98 Fuel would be some where around 360rwkws if any one can run them to 24psi with the .63 housings.
Where has this idea come from that dousing the cylinder walls with oil is a good idea. The conrod has a drilling that directs a small amount of oil onto the cylinder wall. The piston colling nozzles direct the oil to the underside of the piston, in the case of the TT they direct the oil into a channel cast into the underside of the crown, NA they direct oil a little further toward centre of the underside of the crown. TT squirters are directing the oil at the back of the ring lands to aid cooling allowing the rings to seal better to reduce emissions, the NA does not produce the same cylinder heat as the TT and does not require the same amount of cooling in the ring pack. Swamping the cylinder walls will promote oil consumption, exactly the same way glazed cylinders do. The grooves left by the honing process have the purpose of retaining a small amount of oil on the cylinder walls, this is why the honing process is so critical, adding more oil and forcing the oil control ring to do more work is asking for trouble. TL, DR: NA piston cooling nozzles provide zero benefit that isn't negating by allowing the ring back to run hotter.
Well I'm happy to hear that eric!! I was persuaded by this thread http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=302745 Thanks for the info!
I'm looking forwards to doing just that with mine! Will be good to properly test these turbos as they are considerably larger than stock cores! I should have her on the dyno in the next 6 months if not sooner. Just need bigger injectors and exhaust done. Already have nistune ready!
