If you're keen enough, maybe you can wire an adjustable main power switch prior to the brake light trigger switch into the speedo or ecu speedo or sensor or which ever works so it only comes on at a certain speed. That way you don't have to remember to turn it off manually. If you forget, you'll soak your ducts and might crack the brakes if they're still hot. Would that be something worth considering?
Just fabricate some brake steel tube around the upper brake shroud area with holes/jets punched into it, with some flexi brake line with mounting brackets so that when you turn the wheels it allows for movement being flexi, hooked up to a water reseroir with a good pump. Have a relay hooked up to the brake light set onto a timer, so that when you brake it will engage a second after you take the foot off the pedal. You don't want it engaged at the point of braking in my opinion, you want it activated on when there is the most airflow upon acceleration and speed. That would allow for increased heat to air/water transfer. You could also increase the ducting so that the airflow to and from the brakes is also increased. Try using just a few jets either side then if it is too concentrated use a few more jets.
This is better suited to people running water and methanol injection: You could use water and methanol to get better evaporation and cooling effect. It would be advisable to inject at the begining of the duct work for the brakes for maximum cooling as described earlier. You would need to keep the mixture at or below 50% methanol to water by volume so that the mixture remains non-flamable.
Is that sarcasm Wiz? Here's a link on the topic http://www.viperalley.com/forum/viper-discussions-gen-i/53488-watercooled-brakes.html
This is what I'm currently running 5K1TZX, Stop tech big brake kit, 332mm slotted curved vein rotors, ST40 calipers, Ferodo 2500 pads, flexible stainless lines, Reliance edge slotted rear rotors. Stone shields removed and tubular ducting fitted. Good set up which i am happy with, but as JP says good is the enemy of better. some good ideas thrown up here and i will follow up on some.
are you seriously considering spraying mist onto the rotor surface? wouldnt that reduce friction? late model mercs have a rotor-drying function to reduce braking distance in wet conditions. in any case im sure a cold air duct using flex from the front of the car to the stone shield should do just fine for those stoptechs. are you preparing for endurance racing? if you go the mist route, do inform us of before and after braking results
Willall racing seem to have a water braking kit for the R35. Sounds like they have a good idea. This on looks like it pumps the mist almost point blank at the rotor. Looks like your on the right track. "There?s many takes on effective methods of brake cooling. You can choose different vented rotors, build large air ducting systems, and now, you can watercool with Willall Racing?s WR35WS system. It?s not a new invention but it is new to GT-R owners, the system injects water into the center of the rotor and offers many benefits such as, cooler brakes which leads to better braking performance for a longer period of time, prolonged pad life, and prolonged rotor life with fewer cracks developing. The system consists of a central computer controller, hoses, fittings and brackets to mount enough gear to cool the front two rotors. While some may see the direct injection of water onto the rotors as a controversial subject, top tier racing teams have been using the same type of technology with great results for many years now. Willall Racing have also conducted their own testing on their R35 system and found the improvement to be dramatic."
Just for those searching... Just happened to stumble upon this thread while doing some research and thought some clarification might be in handy for those contemplating water cooling. Every system I've installed has been as per the willall racing system. It important to note that the water doesn't spray the friction surface of the disc. it is sprayed into the ventilation groove in the center of the disc. If you look at the willall picture you can see the sprayer is a stiff metal pipe running on the hub side of the caliper. what you can't see is that there is an angle on the end where the water sprayer is directed into the ventilation holes. This is why only one sprayer is used. it doesnt need to be an atomising spray as the water impacting the rotating ventilation ridges tends to ensure good spreading. By spraying into the ventilation channel, there is no case hardening of the friction surface and centrifugal force will throw the water down the channels. If there is any water still hitting the tyres when the brakes are warm, you are using far too much... Much as in water injection on an engine, the higher latent heat absorption ability of water means its far more effective than air alone in drawing temp. One simple and effective way to install the system is to run a separate micro switch off the pedal which only activates under heavy brake applications. This means that with light pressure when stationary or just under light applications, no water will be used, but when you stomp on the brakes (or when the brake pedal gets a touch spongy) the system will spray more frequently. A master switch is also a good idea to prevent pump failure in the event of the water running out or if you are trying to warm up the brakes/tyres.
LOL Goose! Dont worry tho, I have participated in several... errrmm spitited debates where this (AC) strategy was put forward as a charge air intercooling arrangement............. Seems that the extra power gained by the cooling effect was well able to account for the significant power loss driving the AC compressor AND the 20 odd kilo increase in weight after installation. Eeeeek!
StopTechs on the front of mine which is probably a bit lighter than your Z32, they are damn good and without any ducting at all run cool enough to use Lucas road type brake pads. Rotor wear is very low with that combo too.
