Hey guys. Decided in the next 4 months, I'll start collecting all the parts I need to rebuild the Zed's engine. Funds are a little tight so I've decided to simply rebuild the engine back to brand new stock condition and few years down the line do my 'money is no issue' rebuild. To that end, wanted to get a definitive list of the parts needed. I have some idea so far, wondering if I am heading in the right direction... - 100k or 200k Kit from Caz (all the little extras of course, water pump, oil pump etc) - New bottom end bearings - New Piston Rings - New Head bolts - New Lifters - Heads cleaned and machined - All necessary gaskets of course - Finally do the EGR, AIV deletes - Plenum water bypass? - Replace all old / worn hoses with new ones, including fuel lines That seem about right or am I missing something in there? The Zed has about 166,000kms on her at the moment. I bought her 2 years ago at 120,000kms. Hence not quite sure which kit to buy from Caz. Also, I'll be high-flowing my Turbos with an option Hypergear have given me to the 28R, maybe if the bank permits, splash out a little extra and go the 28RS. Given when the engine is rebuilt back to tip top condition, and my mod list, can I expect to break 300rwkw without too much stress on the engine? Current Mod list: -Stock (unhealthy) Engine -Stock Turbos (probably on their way out too) -Stock Injectors (unsure of condition, considering going 550cc just to 'future proof' things) -Iridium 0.8mm gapped Plugs -2.5" Split Dumps, 2.5" Front pipe to 3" Cats, then 2.5" Mandrel bent back to pair of 3.5" Magnaflows Quad Tips. (Yes I know its a weird setup ) -Japtek SMICs -HKS EVC4 EBC (holds boost extremely well, very happy with it) -Nistune chipped, still not tuned yet though -Aluminum 1 piece Driveshaft -Lightened Pulley set (Crank, P/S, Water) Hoping to run around 17-18 PSI on high boost, and about 12 PSI on low once everything is back together after the rebuild and its tuned. Does this seem reasonable? Lastly, does anyone know a rough price guide for getting the parts needed to rebuild our engines back to OEM condition? (Not including labor, just parts) I was thinking roughly in the 2-2.5k figure? Me and my dad will be doing all the work, rebuilt plenty of other engines before, very excited to be finally doing my Zed. MoulaZX
Sounds really good, but your going that far, i dont understand why your wouldnt get at LEAST some forged internals. Wouldnt cost you much more when youre anyway... and you can be quite safe at that power level.
Well, first time venturing into rebuilding an engine with performance in mind. Have almost zero idea how much any of it costs and where to even get all this stuff. If it turns out to be like only a few hundred extra for some forged internals, then I guess I could swing it, sure. MoulaZX
Well, given that my car has shot-peened rods and ACL Forged pistons and rings, high-flowed turbo's by Garrett, full 3" exhaust with Hi-flow CATS, large SMIC's, Microtech ECU and lightened flywheel, it pulled 271.9rwkw @ 17psi on UAS's Dyno Dynamics dyno. I genuinely doubt that you will safely exceed that with your planned rebuild specs.
No I can't, but based on the assurances of several respected engine builders, that an extra 50rwkw is highly unlikely(even extremely risky)with my level of mods(stock injectors)and boost, I have to be somewhat skeptical about such claims(or the accuracy of the reported mods, etc). P.S. It is my understanding that fitting 28's(as in Benny's case)is a vastly different thing to hi-flowing stock turbo's to 28 specs(the latter being less efficient in the volume of airflow).
If your doing a rebuild you might as well go the Wiesco pistons Eagle rods combo from Coz, or better yet check out there rebuild kits. I would recommend this one in particular. http://www.conceptzperformance.com/...&Car_Type=300&UID=20100815180324110.33.43.220 You going to remove and fit the motor yourself, you will save alot of money because if your just going to go into a work shop and ask for a rebuild you will be hit with a 10k invoice.
Once you get bigger injectors Lloyd you could wind your turbos up to 18psi pretty safely and make around 290 or so at the rears.
I have a new set of 555cc ready to go in when I do my 100K Service in the very near future, but 290rwkw is still a long way short of a claimed 320rwkw, so where is the other 30rwkw hiding?
Thats actually a VERY enticing package, and after all costs are incurred, postage, import taxes? It'll probably land in the neighborhood of my claimed 2-2.5k. MoulaZX
Coz will look after you on import taxes. Postage i would say $200 or so, it's $250 for coilovers to Sydney.
Im pretty sure Benny has high flow turbo manifolds and I think he also did some work on the exhaust housings to get some more flow, not to sure but its all in his thread. Are your turbo's highflowed with GT28R cores or the GT28RS core Lloyd?
"claimed 320rwkw?" ...wasn't claimed mate, was proven on a dyno over 3 runs. that extra 30kw could be hiding depending on what CHRA size you've got in your stock housings. Mine are ported out hugely with 28RS cores in them. Your ones may not have as big cores in them Lloyd, this can easily make the difference in the power figure. I've also got ported and flowed exhaust manifolds which is a big help. Another good example is BlackBeast's flowed turbos with 348rwkw on the reputable UAS dyno aswell i believe. Although he had even bigger cores in his than mine.
You're a touch defensive in regard to your dyno result Benny, I'm not denying your claims, rather, I'm simply saying that those figures are not attainable by going "half-assed" with an engine rebuild. No expense was spared on my rebuild, nor was it done with any intention of winning some "Dyno Queen" competition(it was running a Unichip at that time). The hi-flowing was done by Garrett, to specs they recommended, and at that time, no-one was promoting T28 specs(unlike these days). You are simply agreeing with my earlier comments, that doing a rebuild without changing to stronger internals(eg. pistons/rings/rods etc.,along with injectors and other supporting mods)whilst chasing 320rwkw, is simply not advisable. Stop trying to turn my comments into a personal attack on someone.
This is the base list for my rebuild: -Wiseco forged pistons with rings -Eagle Forged Performance Rods -Complete Nissan Gasket Kit w/ Cometic Metal Head Gaskets -New Nissan Oil Pump/New Nissan Water Pump -60k timing kit with Gates Timing Belt and other belts to suit underdrive pulley. -ACL Race Series Rod and Main Bearings -ARP Head and Main Stud Kit -ARP Rod Bolt Kit -Valve Stem Seals -12 New Nissan Freeze Plugs -4 Block oil galley plugs -2 Block deck check valves -2 Half Moon (Exhaust valve cover seals) -Heavy Duty Idler Studs ~$3000ish but hit up Vuk@AMS for a quote mate, he looked after me, was great to deal with and beat everyone else's prices. Then looking at about another $3000 for the engine work, prep and assembly of block, balance, assembly of head. Checking all clearances. Also chilli, settle down...theres no conspiracy theories to be found here. Just cause someone made more power than yourself with less mods doesn't mean it can't be done.
The above quote from you seems to suggest that I am somehow casting doubt on your figures, does it not(when all I am saying is that Emile's "economy" rebuild plans are counterproductive, if he is trying to attain similar results to you).
Bite me! Where are you getting this bulls#@t about conspiracy theories from(Oh! I forgot, they emanate from up your way, don't they?). I am saying that a rebuild WITHOUT new pistons and stronger rods(and very little else beyond stock specs)is highly unlikely to produce reliable power similar to BennyC's car(and 30rwkw more than mine). Clean out your ears.
