Suspension Geometry / Setup - Page 2

mungyz · 25-05-2010, 06:42 AM

Ikea would end up costing me approx $1300 a pair = $2600 for a set, these ching chong ones cost me < $1000 but it looks like only the components are usable, the actual arms are scrap metal by the looks of it.

Tektrader · 25-05-2010, 07:40 AM

having a think about this. Even if the front arms are rubbish and cant be used.

The only real advantage over stock I can see is the ability to extend or reduce arm length so you dont have to use spacers to get the track width correct.
If the investigation turns out negative on strength. I will just use the stock arms with nolathane inserts and wheel spacers. In a lot of ways probably wont make a lot of difference. Caster length changes are not too ridiculous so I expect the bushings will be able to take that up OK.

Just good money thrown away, which is a shame.

Wonder if I can work a way to fit circular bushings pressed into the front stock inner arm hole? Looks like its Ikeya or stock for the rear.

BLACK BEAST · 25-05-2010, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mungyz

Ikea would end up costing me approx $1300 a pair = $2600 for a set, these ching chong ones cost me < $1000 but it looks like only the components are usable, the actual arms are scrap metal by the looks of it.

You can get them a little cheaper than that through Perfectrun

but you are buying quality and it works .last thing you want is taking a corner at 160km and it fails.

BLACK BEAST · 25-05-2010, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tektrader

having a think about this. Even if the front arms are rubbish and cant be used.

The only real advantage over stock I can see is the ability to extend or reduce arm length so you dont have to use spacers to get the track width correct.

If the investigation turns out negative on strength. I will just use the stock arms with nolathane inserts and wheel spacers. In a lot of ways probably wont make a lot of difference.

Just good money thrown away, which is a shame.

the front pivot point modification I did is a fixed roll centre adjustment.
You also have rollcentre adjustments on the front arm to fine tune it..

Tektrader · 25-05-2010, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLACK BEAST

the front pivot point modification I did is a fixed roll centre adjustment.
You also have rollcentre adjustments on the front arm to fine tune it..

You mean the outter arm ball joint having a spacer to lower the arm? Worst come to worst, I will machine an extender for the stock ball joint.

The roll centre move as you said is a hard point change on the chassis.

Or just find the cash to buy real arms.

BLACK BEAST · 25-05-2010, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tektrader

You mean the outter arm ball joint having a spacer to lower the arm? Worst come to worst, I will machine an extender for the stock ball joint.

yes the outer balljoint is also threaded so you can adjust roll centres.the spacers on mine are are also different sizes so you can reverse them as well.

end of the day it might be hard to justify the price of IKEYA but when you actual hold them in your hands and fit them you can understand it.

mungyz · 25-05-2010, 08:09 AM

last thing you want is taking a corner at 160km and it fails.

Got that right, hell even at 30Kmhr it would do untold damage to the car.

I'm pretty sure the rears will be usable, the fronts I can't be certain so most likely scrap metal = close to $500 wasted. I would say zero chance of getting money back as well

Lurker if your reading this I'm concerned about using high grip tyres at high speed etc, they may be OK for normal tyres & normal use. We will have a report from BGTV8 in any case to confirm or kill the usefulness. I will give you a call some time soon.

MagicMike · 25-05-2010, 11:04 AM

Maybe I will chop them up & use the good bits to build my own arms with high quality tube etc, increase the diameter while I'm at it.

Mungyz lower arms anyone?

[/QUOTE]

He'll yes!

JAPTEK.COM.AU · 25-05-2010, 07:19 PM

I have just been put onto this thread and i'm shocked with what i hear!!
These arms will be off the market untill we get some proven test results.

Please let us know how you go with the load test

mungyz · 25-05-2010, 07:45 PM

Hey
Thanks for posting - I will let you know how I get on, like I posted previously I think the rears will be OK. The fronts I have some concern over

Nothing against Japtek the service has been fine & the price fair, quality of this particular product - yet to be fully determined

Anton · 25-05-2010, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mungyz

Mungyz lower arms anyone?

yes

25-05-2010, 07:40 AM	#22
Tektrader Z32 Hoe, service me baby Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Victoria Thanks: 26 Thanked 135 Times in 106 Posts	having a think about this. Even if the front arms are rubbish and cant be used. The only real advantage over stock I can see is the ability to extend or reduce arm length so you dont have to use spacers to get the track width correct. If the investigation turns out negative on strength. I will just use the stock arms with nolathane inserts and wheel spacers. In a lot of ways probably wont make a lot of difference. Caster length changes are not too ridiculous so I expect the bushings will be able to take that up OK. Just good money thrown away, which is a shame. Wonder if I can work a way to fit circular bushings pressed into the front stock inner arm hole? Looks like its Ikeya or stock for the rear. __________________

25-05-2010, 11:04 AM	#28
MagicMike The Warwick WRXenator Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Springfield Thanks: 99 Thanked 58 Times in 49 Posts	Maybe I will chop them up & use the good bits to build my own arms with high quality tube etc, increase the diameter while I'm at it. Mungyz lower arms anyone? [/QUOTE] He'll yes! __________________ DZSFTMFWROFL

25-05-2010, 07:19 PM	#29
JAPTEK.COM.AU Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: South Australia Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	I have just been put onto this thread and i'm shocked with what i hear!! These arms will be off the market untill we get some proven test results. Please let us know how you go with the load test __________________ JAPTEK - Performance Quality Parts http://www.japtek.com.au/images/Untitled-1.gif EMAIL US AT info@japtek.com.au

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25-05-2010, 06:42 AM	#21
mungyz Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Hamilton New Zealand Thanks: 2 Thanked 40 Times in 33 Posts	Ikea would end up costing me approx $1300 a pair = $2600 for a set, these ching chong ones cost me < $1000 but it looks like only the components are usable, the actual arms are scrap metal by the looks of it.

25-05-2010, 08:09 AM	#27
mungyz Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Hamilton New Zealand Thanks: 2 Thanked 40 Times in 33 Posts	last thing you want is taking a corner at 160km and it fails. Got that right, hell even at 30Kmhr it would do untold damage to the car. I'm pretty sure the rears will be usable, the fronts I can't be certain so most likely scrap metal = close to $500 wasted. I would say zero chance of getting money back as well Lurker if your reading this I'm concerned about using high grip tyres at high speed etc, they may be OK for normal tyres & normal use. We will have a report from BGTV8 in any case to confirm or kill the usefulness. I will give you a call some time soon.

25-05-2010, 07:45 PM	#30
mungyz Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Hamilton New Zealand Thanks: 2 Thanked 40 Times in 33 Posts	Hey Thanks for posting - I will let you know how I get on, like I posted previously I think the rears will be OK. The fronts I have some concern over Nothing against Japtek the service has been fine & the price fair, quality of this particular product - yet to be fully determined